M
Mario
Guest
Do I have to go through the harness? Can I just go straight from stator to R/R then straight to battery? Do i need to dig through the harness to route it all as it was? Is isolation of that circuit possible/feasable?
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K
koolaid_kid
Guest
You can, and should, bypass the harness from the stator to the R/R.
You can go from the R/R to the battery with a 20-25A in-line fuse, but you should consider also using the factory in-harness as well.
You can go from the R/R to the battery with a 20-25A in-line fuse, but you should consider also using the factory in-harness as well.
Steve
GS Whisperer
This subject has been beat to death several times, but let's break up the questions and do it again.
As pointed out many times in the past, before the bike is running, the power comes from the battery, through the MAIN fuse, to the ignition switch, then back to the fuse box to power the other three fuses that run the bike. The output from the R/R is connected between the MAIN fuse and the ignition switch, which means that when the bike is running, power comes from it, gets to the "T" connection and goes to the bike through the ignition switch and the three fuses. Anything beyond what the bike requires goes back through the MAIN fuse to the battery to charge it. If you connect the output of the R/R directly to the battery, ALL the power to the bike will be going through the MAIN fuse ALL the time, which is why you need to install a larger fuse. You also need to install a fuse between the R/R and the battery, but that should be a no-brainer.
If you want to do a re-wire job, it would be better to connect the R/R to the battery, then use the ignition switch to control a relay that powers the three fuses direrctly from the battery. That saves the load on the ignition switch and provides better power to the bike.
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No.
Going straight to the R/R is highly recommended, but be aware that going straight to the battery changes the intent of a few things in the wiring harness.
No, you don't need to "dig through the harness" to route it, but you might have to dig a bit to ensure a proper connection on one of the wires.
It's possible, probably even feasable, but what is your goal?
As pointed out many times in the past, before the bike is running, the power comes from the battery, through the MAIN fuse, to the ignition switch, then back to the fuse box to power the other three fuses that run the bike. The output from the R/R is connected between the MAIN fuse and the ignition switch, which means that when the bike is running, power comes from it, gets to the "T" connection and goes to the bike through the ignition switch and the three fuses. Anything beyond what the bike requires goes back through the MAIN fuse to the battery to charge it. If you connect the output of the R/R directly to the battery, ALL the power to the bike will be going through the MAIN fuse ALL the time, which is why you need to install a larger fuse. You also need to install a fuse between the R/R and the battery, but that should be a no-brainer.
If you want to do a re-wire job, it would be better to connect the R/R to the battery, then use the ignition switch to control a relay that powers the three fuses direrctly from the battery. That saves the load on the ignition switch and provides better power to the bike.
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