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RS FLATSLIDE goooooroooooo's needed

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
DEFINITELY not a guru here, especially with flatsides, but I did take a look at the manuals that posplayr linked.
What I saw was the float level is supposed to be 17 +/- 1mm. You said you had them set at 18mm, which would be on the lean side.

You then have your (possibly too small) pilots richened up to compensate. As soon as more than idle-speed air starts moving through, all that richness has to go somewhere.

Doesn't sound like much, but try setting the floats to 17mm and make sure that both floats measure the same, within a few tenths of a mm.

Just a suggestion, but that's what you are asking for. :o

.
 
I was trying to avoid lowering the fuel level in mine to avoid starvation @ WOT Like some have experienced. I have a stock petcock, but I had opened the gas cap vent up previously to cure a fuel flow problem.

So after reading KATMAN's specs I decided to tinker some more.

I increased the float height to 18mm, this cured the richness @ 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. I was able to bump the pilots back up to #15 mikuni's. Idle was then rich, so now the screws are @ around 3/4 turn. Needle is still in middle and mains are 140"s. Pulls strong and cruise is clean. WOT pulls strong no signs of starvation. Will have to get to a longer straight to hold it WO longer and see, so far just short runs.
 
Here's my set up with Mikuni Flatslides - after a DYNO run......

The bike is 1075cc (Kawasaki tho'!!!!) KZ1000 1978 - gas flowed, standard cams & RS36 - D3 -K with K&N's, ....

135 main - 17.5 pilot - Fuel screw (NOT air screw!) 1 turn out - float 17mm (+/- 0.5mm) -Needles = 9DZH1 mid clip (3)

Assuming all rubber manifolds are good - no air leaks, etc.... If older RS carbs with plastic slides (throttle valves) check for cracks.....
 
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