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running way rich

  • Thread starter Thread starter rgierer
  • Start date Start date
R

rgierer

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I picked up an 85 GS700e on this forum a few months ago. The PM was leaving for the army and needed to just move it on, he indicatated he had just cleaned the carbs but not adjusted them. Being patriotic I bought the bike stuck an ebay r/r on it and a new main fuse and took it out a few times.

This bike is running way rich and has virtually no throttle after 1/2 or so. It starts good and idles good and when I turn the air/fuel screws I have little impact. I have done a bit of reading and I can back off these air screws but I doubt that will impact the higher RPM performance.

I can synch upthe carbs but I hesitate to believe it would have that dramatic of impact, but I have been wrong more than nice before.

Please provide insights and guidance at will.
 
Carbs

Carbs

Cleaned or cleaned properly? There are more ways to foul up the job than can be counted. Best to take them off and start from the begining. This way you will know if they were put together properly or just put together to sell. Have faith, you have an overwelming amount of help at your fingertips.I have seen some excellent info on the whole process on this site. Best I can offer at this time of morning.
 
Float levels are most likely set too high. The idle screws only have effect at openings less than 1/4 throttle. After that you are on the needle and at higher openings the main. Float levels have a huge impact on mixture. Bench sync the carbs while they are off too. You can get them close enough without guages that it should run decent.
 
BTW, turning the idle screws out richens the mixture down low.
 
Running rich in all cylinders or just some? It makes a difference in how you proceed.

Do plug reads to see if all or some are running rich.
 
I will check all 4 plugs this week end. I looked at the 2 outside plugs last week end and they were both black and wet
 
I assume the air filter is clean and the air box sealed well? Stock bike?
Stock plugs? Black and wet plugs? Wet meaning fuel fouled? Plugs will air dry well? If not, wet would be oil fouled. Mixture screws around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out, since they were mentioned. If problems are mostly at 1/2 throttle position and beyond, if carb related, you're looking at dirty carbs/poor float adjustment/jet needles and/or main jets too rich.
Hope compression is good.
 
You have given me plenty of steps. The bike has pods and allegedly non OEM carbs. The mods are not new and this bike had been owned by the young man and his uncle for several years.

I will run down the steps and assess

Thanks
 
"Non OEM" carbs opens a whole new can of worms.
Most common mod' I've seen over the years is to take a larger set of carbs and simply bolt them on thinking more fuel=more power. But generally, the bike may run ok up to 1/3 to 1/2 throttle and then just fall on its face.
You may have lots of jettng to do. Would be helpful if you can ID these carbs or send a pic' later.
 
agree with what Keith has said above here.

Best bet, try and source some original fitment carbies.
 
How can I identify carb model.

I have pulled them off but I find few distinctive markings.

It is set up for recieving fuel from 2 hoses (a T from petcock)

The butterflys all have a marking of 135 on them.

I will run down to the Suzuki shop but I doubt if they can help me.
 
They generally have id numbers on the sides just under the caps that cover the slide diaphrams. If anybody replaced them for performance reasons they probably went with GSXR carbs from an air/oil cooled model. Since they have butterflies they are CV type carbs. If they are stock they will have the id #31300 on them somewhere.
 
Back from the Suzuki shop.

The carbs the bike should have on it are BS32SS

While we could not confirm a number (no BS32SS or 31300) we cold find we could confirm that they had a bore of 32mm

The staff at the shop believed they were the correct carbs for the bike.
 
FYI book calls for 117.5 main jets. This bike has 122.5

Float height does appear to be off but I am off to buy a better tool to measure with
 
I have adjusted the floats put the bikle mostly back together but will need to run off to my brothers 50th birthday party.

Thanks to MLK I will have oporpurtunity for a test drive manana
 
Double check those float levels and be SURE you measure from the carb surface (no bowl gasket) to the correct top part of the float body, not the float arm.
Bench synch the carbs. They should then be vacuum synched. I'll assume all passages are clean.
Going from 117.5 to 122.5 mains isn't nearly enough for pod filters. I'll bet the jet needle is stock and not shimmed so that will be very lean too.
If you still have the stock exhaust you can't use a jet kit either with any confidence because stage 3 is for pods and pipe, stage 1 for stock airbox. I suggest 1/3 throttle runs/plug reads to see how the needles are mixing.
Probably 3 or 4 full sizes up on the mains will get you closer. That would be around 132.5 to 135 mains as a guess.
But you'll have to find why the plugs were black and wet and no power beyond 1/2 throttle first. That certainly wouldn't be caused by a 122.5 main jet and a lean, stock jet needle position. Who knows though? Maybe someone did shim the needles to richen the mixture and raised them too much.
Your clean carbs and correct float levels are a good start to getting it right. Be sure of no intake manifold leaks too.
Sure hope those carbs are stock. If so, we can get it jetted right much more easily.
 
It was one of those days. In the end I did not get an oppurtunty to test out the carbs, despite the best efforts of all concerned. Testing will need to wait until next weekend
 
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