• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Runs on choke, Dies as soon as I pull the throttle...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Higgibaby
  • Start date Start date
tom203 said:
Well now that the pleasantries are over, how long did bike sit idle while you did this work? Removing carbs (that ran well) disturbs boots - might seal poorly now. And why did you ultrasonically clean carbs, if they were running right before? Did you remove the idle/air mixture screw stuff (hidden under plug) on each carb prior to bath?
Click to expand...

Lol, thanks...the bike sat for 8months, and the carbs had never been taken off or cleaned and the fuel smelt real bad, so as I was restoring it was kinda why not. I will have to check the boots closer, and yes I removed the air screw and the pilots and cleaned them all individually...even with a needle. But that's not to say something could of happened in the meantime putting them back together...
 
8 months and bad smelling fuel , might be too much for ultrasonic cleaning - I don't know, haven't investigated it that much.
Ok, you removed "air screw and pilots", but I'm refering to idle air mixture screw. See pic, it's (hidden) in that column just left of where pencil is pointing- bike left factory with a plug over this- do your carbs still have these plugs?



attachment.php
 
tom203 said:
8 months and bad smelling fuel , might be too much for ultrasonic cleaning - I don't know, haven't investigated it that much.
Ok, you removed "air screw and pilots", but I'm refering to idle air mixture screw. See pic, it's (hidden) in that column just left of where pencil is pointing- bike left factory with a plug over this- do your carbs still have these plugs?



g/IMG][/QUOTE]

Yes my carbs still have those plugs on, on my other bike they've been removed...would that be the issue? How do I remove those?
Click to expand...
 
And you said you had cleaned them already.

Always the same old story over and over.
 
Your carbs low speed circuits can't be cleaned thoroughly (full dip or ultrasonic) if those plugs and the idle mixture screw assembly (screw ,washer, o-ring) aren't removed. You can remove the plug with a sharp drywall screw-this gives you access to the soft brass mixture screw. Use a perfect fit screwdriver (best to modify one) or plan on fun.

best to read this tutorial, even if you desire to redo ultrasonic method instead of chemical dip

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

The low speed circuits supply the mixture at idle and during the transition to main jet stuff- your bike will spend lots of time running on them, so they have to be thoroughly clean.
Do some reading .
 
Higgibaby said:
Yes my carbs still have those plugs on, on my other bike they've been removed...would that be the issue? How do I remove those?
Click to expand...

If the factory plugs are there, your carbs have NOT been broken down and dipped. Read the tutorial and do it. It will never run right until it has clean carbs with new O-rings and no air leaks. It doesn't cost much to do it correctly.

You claimed they had been completely cleaned ultrasonically. They haven't. You don't want any help, the way you have treated the ones that tried to help...
 
Helll...20 odd posts later and I havent seen what bike he even has.

Now dont blow a gasket with me original poster, but go back to the USER CP and edit your signature to include a location and add what bikes you have. Make it much easier to decipher if your talking about CV carbs or VM carbs.

Secondly, am I understanding that you took the carbs off, then poked out the pilot and mixture screws with a needle? I am also confused as to whether you dipped them in Berrymans or ran them in an ultrasonic..or neither.

Third...you said the other orings looked ok, so is that to imply you reused the orings that were in there???

Forth..I didnt see anything about putting in new intake manifold orings. Go here and scroll down and youll see two carbs rebuild tutorials just to the right of the picture of Cliffs bike. Tear the carbs down 100% and redo them right and get the valves adjusted if you havent done them already.
 
And as stated already, CAREFULLY drill a small hole just till you get thru the plug caps and use a screw. I just get the threads started till I feel them hit the pilot screw and then use the hammer to grip the head and give a good yank and they usually pop right out.
 
tom203 said:
Your carbs low speed circuits can't be cleaned thoroughly (full dip or ultrasonic) if those plugs and the idle mixture screw assembly (screw ,washer, o-ring) aren't removed. You can remove the plug with a sharp drywall screw-this gives you access to the soft brass mixture screw. Use a perfect fit screwdriver (best to modify one) or plan on fun.

best to read this tutorial, even if you desire to redo ultrasonic method instead of chemical dip

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

The low speed circuits supply the mixture at idle and during the transition to main jet stuff- your bike will spend lots of time running on them, so they have to be thoroughly clean.
Do some reading .
Click to expand...

That tutorial I awesome! Thanks so much I'll go through it this weekend and strip the carbs...
 
chuck hahn said:
And as stated already, CAREFULLY drill a small hole just till you get thru the plug caps and use a screw. I just get the threads started till I feel them hit the pilot screw and then use the hammer to grip the head and give a good yank and they usually pop right out.
Click to expand...

Awesome!! Thank you
 
What bike are we talking about here??? Go to cycleorings.com and order the appropriate oring kit for the carbs and once you have the intake manifolds off the head measure the ID of the groove and get the intake orings as well.

Little tip here before you strip the screw heads and cause all sorts of mayhem.


Soak the manifold bolts with some good penetrating oil such as Seafoam deep Creep or PB Blaster before going to bed the night before your ready to dig in. Not just a little squirt..get them SOAKED real good. In fact, do it soon as you get home and get the carbs off and again before crashing. And again when you are getting your tools ready...see where I am going with this??? Lay a a rag on the tranny case to catch the slop.

Point is to get as much soaked into the threads as is possible. Use an impact driver and get a good solid whack on the driver the very first time. Press in on the driver so the bit is seated and held real firm..line up the hammer..and whack the thing pretty good. Be CERTAIN the driver is going in the OFF direction before smacking the bolts in even tighter too. Once the bolts break loose some will turn real easy and some will give some resistance. The ones that want to be stiffer hit again with oil and work the bolts back and forth to further loosen the cruds grip in the threads.

Another good way to get a good area to whack the impact is to take out the battery and use all your extentions and go in thru the battery box to get the bit lined up. the driver handle will be out in the open for a good lined up shot at it.someone had actually posted pics of this setup long ago but I dontrecall who it was or what thread was.
 
OHH...and if the screw rips the plug cap off the pilot screws but leaves it inthere and sort of mangled or whatever, just use a small flat tip screw driver at that point to carefully pry it all out. Be easy as you dont want to snap the tower the screws go into.

I would also that once you get those phillips heads out you get to the local bolt place and get stainless allen heads..no more bullcrap when its time to do more work later.
 
Last edited:
chuck hahn said:
What bike are we talking about here??? Go to cycleorings.com and order the appropriate oring kit for the carbs and once you have the intake manifolds off the head measure the ID of the groove and get the intake orings as well.

Little tip here before you strip the screw heads and cause all sorts of mayhem.


Soak the manifold bolts with some good penetrating oil such as Seafoam deep Creep or PB Blaster before going to bed the night before your ready to dig in. Not just a little squirt..get them SOAKED real good. In fact, do it soon as you get home and get the carbs off and again before crashing. And again when you are getting your tools ready...see where I am going with this??? Lay a a rag on the tranny case to catch the slop.

Point is to get as much soaked into the threads as is possible. Use an impact driver and get a good solid whack on the driver the very first time. Press in on the driver so the bit is seated and held real firm..line up the hammer..and whack the thing pretty good. Be CERTAIN the driver is going in the OFF direction before smacking the bolts in even tighter too. Once the bolts break loose some will turn real easy and some will give some resistance. The ones that want to be stiffer hit again with oil and work the bolts back and forth to further loosen the cruds grip in the threads.

Another good way to get a good area to whack the impact is to take out the battery and use all your extentions and go in thru the battery box to get the bit lined up. the driver handle will be out in the open for a good lined up shot at it.someone had actually posted pics of this setup long ago but I dontrecall who it was or what thread was.
Click to expand...

How do I put my bikes and details at the end of my posts?
 
londonboards said:
Wow that's amazing - you coming from the Canterbury area.

Well I had mixed results. Bike started straight away (good sign) but I never got to see if I could rev it up.

Look at the oil cooler area as I start the bike again:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4b3sP4_FAMc&feature=youtu.be

Damn - another delay.

Greetings
Click to expand...

I actually grew up in rochester, but worked in Canterbury for a while...small world, I like I said I have used your blog for all kinds of tips...it's been really helpful! When I nip back home sometime I would love to see your 1100G all restored!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top