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Runs well but plugs are sooty black. Why? (GS1000 G)

I rin 225s with stock pilots on my 850L with pods and Kerker. With a stock airbox you should not have to change anything from stock, worst case is going up one size on the mains and that is only for the top end. That assumes that your engine is healthy. I get lost in this thread as it is.

V
 
How well packed is your muffler? If it is good shape and not blown out, return everything to stock in the carbs except the main jets. Make those 122.5's or 125's.
Make adjustments from there.

STOCK pilot jets with the well plugs firmly installed.
 
Then run it or get advice from an expert like Nessism perhaps? Have you tried sending him a PM?


Edit: Scratch that. Although he has posted the best darn carb rebuild tutorial (that you followed to the letter) in existence for these bikes,
his experience appears to be limited to 100% stock GS bikes only.
 
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My father took the bike for a ride and I drove behind him. When he decelerated at about 100km/h, there was a bit of smoke coming out the exhaust. It was a greyish smoke. Not black. Do you think it is oil? It only smokes a little bit on decel and never at low rpm or idle.
 
I know that the bike ran without an airfilter for an unknown period(the previous owner). I bought the bike with a lot of sand in the airbox without a filter. Would that have maybe grind the needle and cause the bike to run rich due to more fuel being able to pass the needles?
 
So I installed the smaller main jets and pilot jets and the new jet needles. The plugs are a nice light brown now. Bike runs great.
Only thing is that the idle is a bit weak. When the bike is warm the idle gets stronger. Is it normal on these bikes?

thanks for all the previous help and advice.
 
Yes...when cold youll need some choke till the cylinders get heated up well. Once the jugs are hot the fuel vaporizes way better when the mixture is hitting the heat.

Anything other than whitish blue smoke is fuel rich smoke.
 
At full choke, my bikes will normally climb to around 3G. I start them and let it run like that for 15 seconds or so and then feather the choke back till its holding about 1500. Get the jacket and gloves on and shes usually warmed up. You can just ride off with the feathered choke for a few miles too and then just reach down and take the rest off. Point is its gonna take some warming up to get the jugs up to temp to help fuel vaporization.

Sounds like youve got it so close you can just ride and glide now.
 
One last thing....set the idle on a well warm engine and just know its gonna need warmed up and the idles gonna be wierd till it is..thats normal.
 
So I installed the smaller main jets and pilot jets and the new jet needles. The plugs are a nice light brown now. Bike runs great.
Only thing is that the idle is a bit weak. When the bike is warm the idle gets stronger. Is it normal on these bikes?

thanks for all the previous help and advice.

Care to pay-it-forward and help those who come behind you?

What size Main Jet did you finally end up at?
 
Did you also go lower on the pilots??? What size are they now???? Also,things like Jet needle size, clip position etc etc are usefull info for the next guys to use. Post details on how the final setup is. What are the mixture screws set at??
 
I have a 1000G with a Vance and Hines 4-1. When i got it together I went with jets that were 4 sizes larger. Eventually I ended up with Stock main jets and the plugs are perfect color. I also found the air filter was over oiled with K and N red oil by a previous owner, since replaced.

Start with stock jets, a new air filter and make sure the boots on the engine side and airbox size are in good shape and don't leak. Make small adjustments from there. Don't automatically assume needles have to be raised or jets increased and things drilled out, testing is the way to go.

Personally I would pack the muffler with fresh fiberglass to give it a little back pressure and try to get it back to stock flow rates as much as possible. The slight increase in performance from a freer exhaust , richer running is offset by worse gas mileage, poor driveability around town, etc.

I used a KL carb kit in my 650G 10 years ago and I've never had a problem with the allegedly inferior KL kits. I've done them in other bikes too and never had a problem.

If you can find someone with a colortune the flame can be observed to tune at idle. lacking that, start with new clean plugs and if they load up clean them thoroughly before testing again. Good luck and report back how it goes.
 
My 4 into 1 cant be packed. The bike runs great with "The new jet sizes are: 110 mains
35 pilot
Stock jet needles
2 3/4 turns out on mixture screws"


 
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