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Rust Preventer/Inhibitor

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Hi folks,

Last year I dismantled a good portion of my bike, cleaned/degreased it, and reinstalled everything, but when I looked a few weeks later was already starting to develop in places. What do you guys use as a rust inhibitor that lasts, doesn't collect road debris (i.e. - isn't goopy like a chain or motor oil), and available?

A friend of my suggested Nyalic (never heard of it before), and an online source (Bay Area Resortations?) uses Nano Bond Ceramic. Anyone have experience with either of these?

Cheers
 
Last spring when I took my bike down to the frame to paint it, I treated the rusty spots with this.
hIyK75yl.jpg


Before:
LlQqRdMl.jpg


After:
rSSfv1hl.jpg


I used this on all frame parts, battery box, both stands, swing-arm, torsion bar, and triples; basically, all the black parts.
Remove all the loose rust, then this stuff goes on like milk, you wait for it to turn purple and re-apply w/in 20 minutes. Turns rust in to a black paint-able surface. Then I primed and painted w/ Rustoleum Primer and topcoat.

Disclaimer:
This was my first time I've used anything like this, and the first time I've painted a motorcycle frame. But 10 months later, I haven't seen any rust coming through anywhere. My frame rust was not as bad as some I've seen.
 
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Never used that nano stuff but have had greater results with Turtle Wax Hybrid spray. Mist it on then swish it around using a soft bristle paint brush.
 
I might try that turtlewax stuff.. (sigh).Otherwise,this time of year really brings it up that I'm still looking for something that works on a moving bike in the rain, salt, and what-all..something that will seal a bare metal spot that I can't even see until it gets bad enough that rust-converter and paint is the only answer...Everything except good paint gets beaten off even under the seat somehow...I suppose moist air will lift any oil-based product. And I don't even ride all that much this time of year (2x a week )

one thing that DOESN'T work is "Fluid Film", IMO, but it's probably ok on a non-moving bike outdoors for a little while....and it's ok to enamel over and I have a can to use up but it's a fail...axle grease works better.
 
Paint?, LOL. There is a little known method used for long term storage of crankshafts it is essentially hard tar like they patch asphalt streets and commercial roofs with. You take a small piece of hard tar and dissolve it in a solvent, gasoline/lacquer thinner works fine. You apply it and when the solvent evaporates the residue is dry to the touch, and only has a slight color. It stays on for a long time. There is also a product that you can spray on called LPS3 I have used it a lot in the past, you can store bare metal outdoors for years without corrosion if you use this stuff. It is safe for rubber & paint too.
 
Start a business selling rust and everything you own will miraculously stop corroding in a heartbeat...
 
Tar! what an intriguing idea...it'd certainly stick... I've got a can of roofpatch too, and solvents...will try this! Might be the best up forward where hwy speeds really attack front surfaces ..crappy chrome mirrors, forks and in around the headset etc but other good ideas and reminders to try..rust converter will dry even now so under the seat -todays job...thanks. It drives me nuts as the original paint starts coming off at weld joins etc when I havent a warm enough space to touch it up with paint.
 
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The rust neutralizer does have a useable temperature range on the label. Believe it’s 50-90F. Read the label to be sure.
 
No worries! I've used it before under a different label...and we are warm this winter...It can dry from engine heat or I'll give it a headstart with the ol' heat gun. (I totally forgot to try it as an interim til you mentioned it! )
 
Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated.

For reference, I degreased my parts as well as I could, then soaked them in Evaporust (which is a rust convertor), then painted them. On some of the parts I found I had best results with removing them from the Evapoorust, rise/dry, and putting them back in the solution for another swim. This seemed to occur with the most heavily gunkified of the parts. Also, after the parts were removed from the Evaporust I didn't coat them with anything right away, which was probably a mistake. I'm doing some engine parts right now that I'll spray down with wd40 or white lithium grease at least while they wait for paint etc.
 
Gorminrider said:
Tar! what an intriguing idea...it'd certainly stick... I've got a can of roofpatch too, and solvents...will try this! Might be the best up forward where hwy speeds really attack front surfaces ..crappy chrome mirrors, forks and in around the headset etc but other good ideas and reminders to try..rust converter will dry even now so under the seat -todays job...thanks. It drives me nuts as the original paint starts coming off at weld joins etc when I havent a warm enough space to touch it up with paint.
Click to expand...

Be sure it is a hard tar, or it will be sticky when it is dry. It is used a lot in the engine rebuilders industry on reground automotive crankshafts while they are being stored.
 
KillerGriller said:
Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated.

For reference, I degreased my parts as well as I could, then soaked them in Evaporust (which is a rust convertor), then painted them. On some of the parts I found I had best results with removing them from the Evapoorust, rise/dry, and putting them back in the solution for another swim. This seemed to occur with the most heavily gunkified of the parts. Also, after the parts were removed from the Evaporust I didn't coat them with anything right away, which was probably a mistake. I'm doing some engine parts right now that I'll spray down with wd40 or white lithium grease at least while they wait for paint etc.
Click to expand...


If you use WD40 or grease that sets you up for possible paint adhesion problems later. If you want to prevent rust while waiting to paint, look for some lacquer based primer sealer and spray it on.
 
metalfab said:
Be sure it is a hard tar, or it will be sticky when it is dry. It is used a lot in the engine rebuilders industry on reground automotive crankshafts while they are being stored.
Click to expand...

Haven't got that yet but I'm running a test on some roof patch+paint thinner (acetone tried won't mix easily) ..a thin brown wash..Encouraging so far and dried in short order with a heat gun..but tests are ongoing perresistance, easy removal to overpaint... I'm looking for a 10 minute "suppression" until the day when paint will be an option. This "wash" might combine well with rust converter.

And I have so many tools I could use this on! It's awful to see what's happened to some of my edge tools- even packed in grease! An ideal dip...
 
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Gorminrider said:
Haven't got that yet but I'm running a test on some roof patch+paint thinner (acetone tried won't mix easily) ..a thin brown wash..Encouraging so far and dried in short order with a heat gun..but tests are ongoing perresistance, easy removal to overpaint... I'm looking for a 10 minute "suppression" until the day when paint will be an option. This "wash" might combine well with rust converter.

And I have so many tools I could use this on! It's awful to see what's happened to some of my edge tools- even packed in grease! An ideal dip...
Click to expand...


In the past I used gasoline as a solvent, it is cheap and evaporates fast. I haven't used any gasoline with alcohol in it yet.
 
I forgot to mention, tar can be resistant to dissolving. Let it soak in solvent a few days and it cooperates a little better
 
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