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Rusty carb cleaning. How good??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Suzuki mad
  • Start date Start date
S

Suzuki mad

Guest
I've stripped the carbs and cleaned them. I was going to put them back on today but something in the back of my mind says 'post a question.' So here it is.

How clean is clean for CV carbs?

I've cleaned the float bowls using petrol to get rid of the rust. (My original problem why the bike stopped running properly.) I soaked the pilot jet in petrol and used the special tool to check the holes. I used an air line to blow through and paper towel to dry them off.

I've done the same with the filters, float bowl needles and carbs. I followed the carb instruction apart from using carb cleaner, dipping them and bench synicing them as I didn't split them.

I saw a post that said these carbs have to be surgically clean.

Am I wasting my time refitting them?

Sensible views.

Suzuki mad
 
Last edited:
As far as the CV carbs they cannot be too clean. They need new O rings and a soak in a good carb cleaner for at least 6-8 hours
 
the jets you can see and inspect for cleanliness
however, the internal passages are a different story
the most problematic areas seem to be the fuel enrichment circuit and the pilot circuit
mind you, other internal passages are tiny as well

i took mine (the bodies only) to a local shop, they put them in a machine for ultrasonic cleaning (they are dipped in a cleaning solution too), so, yea, i guess they are quite sensitive lil thingies
 
I don't know about surgically clean but the cleaner the better.

If you go through all the trouble of cleaning out the rust in the carbs make sure that you put an inline filter on it. You might want to clean and seal the gas tank also.
 
The rust came from a dirty fuel exhange I did while changing a fuel tap which I didn't filter prior to refilling the tank. The fuel tank itself is fine.

Suzuki mad
 
The rubber o-rings that interconnect the carbs commonly get hard and brittle...as all the o-rings do. Pulling the carbs apart is the only way to replace these o-rings. Also, at minimum you need to pull all the jets out, including the pilot screw, and shoot spray carb cleaner through the various passages to confirm they are clear. No disrespect but most newbies don't go far enough when doing their first carb cleaning job so following the instructions to the letter is the best way of knowing the job is done right.
 
A newbie mistake

A newbie mistake

Nessism said:
The rubber o-rings that interconnect the carbs commonly get hard and brittle...as all the o-rings do. Pulling the carbs apart is the only way to replace these o-rings.
Click to expand...

I'I leave that till the winter to do. Unless I have real problems.

Nessism said:
Also, at minimum you need to pull all the jets out, including the pilot screw, and shoot spray carb cleaner through the various passages to confirm they are clear.
Click to expand...

OK. Did that, including pilot jet from the bottom. Didn't have the air jet in the bell mouth, choke unit or the air screw out. Mistake or not? The problem was poor running due to rust not gummed up carbs.

Nessism said:
No disrespect but most newbies don't go far enough when doing their first carb cleaning
job so following the instructions to the letter is the best way of knowing the job is done right.
Click to expand...

None taken. I wouldn't have though of me as a newbie but I'I take the compliment.

I would also suggest that why she's not running quiet as smooth as she should.

I'I go back through the carb papers and see if I have missed a step in the cleaning jets etc as she's a little 'fluffy' running. Not as crisp as GS's normally are. Could be the small amount of fuel I've got in the tank or the age of it. I'I give her a test run and see. If not, I'I strip them again this weekend. [Its only a few hours to do.

Suzuki mad
 
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