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Rusty tank

  • Thread starter Thread starter spots25
  • Start date Start date
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spots25

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I just picked up a GS500, and even though it's a 01, the tank is a little rusty inside. What is your experiences with fixing such? Should I clean out the rust and seal it, or just clean out the tank? How should I clean out the tank, and does anyone know of a cheap tank clean kit?
 
Might want to do a search on this one. Tons of threads, several rather recent. General concensus is to just clean it and keep it topped off if no leaks. If leaks then seal.

I cleaned mine and the rust somehow came right back. Will likely end up sealing using a caswell kit, since it's been highly touted by a couple distinguished members over the past 2 years
 
I just did my tank

I just did my tank

Even though it was not that rusty and cleaned up very nice when full of the phosphoric acid, after I cleaned the metal etch from the inside it would rust again real fast. It must be that the tank has gotten a thin layer of gas film build up that tends to inhibit rusting. Once that is stripped it rusts really fast once bare.

About the only way it seems to avoid having it rust is to :1 )remove the rust (Jasco metal etch or electrolysis)
2.)immediately flush the tank with clean water and then get something like diesel fuel in it after you blow or shake the majority of the water out.
3.) Maybe dropping in a pint of alcohol will help evaporate the water then add the diesel fuel after a quick swirl.

You probably have about 5 minutes (to keep the rust to a minimum)to remove the acid soak, flush it out and get something on the bare metal. Jack be nimble jack be quick......


I just decided to do a Por-15 tanks sealer rather than worry about it.

It is very messy so I would not suggest unless you plan of painting the tank or dont mind getting it very where.

Posplayr
 
I just had a really good experience with electrolysis. There was practically 1/4" of rust everywhere in the tank.

I used:

Washing soda (1/2 cup:2.5 gallons (appx))
6A charge rate (most places suggest 2A, for 3 days)
new bolts as the sacrificial pieces, changing every few hours
+ = sacrificial, - = tank
about 30 hours.

I agree that you have to move quickly to remove the surface rust after emptying the tank.
 
man, finding sodium carbonate was a HORRIBLE experience. Eventually, I found some at a pool store. Anyways, I got it cooking at 400ma (wall wart ps) so we'll see what happens
 
hi i used petseal in mine coats the whole of the inside ,sets over night joob done !
 
As said above, start with using an inline filter...but some people don't have much luck with them. If it gives you fuel starvation issues after installing, ditch it.

I would go ahead and seal it. I've had the best luck with POR15...other liner type sealers have a tendency to peel and flake over time but I've never had a POR job come undone. You just rattle some loose screws and nuts around in the tank to loosen any surface rust then fish them out with a magnet. The POR15 kits come with an etching compound that'll thoroughly clean the inside afterward. Then seal. Takes an evening of off/on work and a night to set up.
 
oooh, I'm pulling all KINDS of nasty crap out of the gas tank with that electrolysis setup. It's rather shocking how effective it seems to be. How do I know when I'm done, or when to change the water?
 
post pics! (I dont have an answer, I just want to see) Is it safe for paint if the solution spills?
 
i'll take some pics tomorrow, but i spilled a little when I pulled the coathanger out, and it deposited a light layer of rust on the paint that wiped right off
 
How am I supposed to empty out the debris rattling around in the tank? There is a lip inside the fuel hole that prevents the stuff from comming out. My only idea is a magnet. What have the rest of you done?
 
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