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screwed up my carbs --- anyone have some laying around? best choices?

Gregory

Gregory

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Hello all. I goofed up badly.

I tried an easy out on a pilot jet for my 34mm cv carbs on the 82 gs1100e. The easy out broke off in it and I cant get it drilled out to put a bigger easy out on. I am assuming this carb body is trash now.

I am actually going to be doing two sets of these carbs since my friends 821100e also needs carb cleaning and bigger jets as well.... and one of his also has a pilot screw that doesn't have a slot left in it (although I may do it right).

Since I am in a position to have to spend money anyway, what are the most ideal carbs to run on this bike (was told 33mm smoothbores)? And what is the most affordable option?

I would eventually like to go to a 4-1 and pods but don't have them yet. His bike will remain stock.
 
you can find BS34 bodies on ebay. i've been having BS34 issues on my kz1000m1 and may have to replace the #2 body. otherwise, if you are going to go vm, vm28's are what would be the best and easiest from everything that i've been told on kawasakimotorcycles.org.
 
Gregory said:
Since I am in a position to have to spend money anyway, what are the most ideal carbs to run on this bike (was told 33mm smoothbores)? And what is the most affordable option?

I would eventually like to go to a 4-1 and pods but don't have them yet. His bike will remain stock.
Click to expand...

Optimal and affordable aren't very compatible for the most part. For your friend's bike I would say to stick with the OEM BS34 carbs since he wants everything else stock. For yours you could look for a performance increase. The optimal carbs would be a set of 34mm Mikuni RS flatslides but they cost $$$. The CV carbs from the oil cooled GSXR's will also work and add power but require a bit of tinkering on jetting and float height to work properly. They are more available on fleabay than the GS carbs, though.


Mark
 
60ratrod said:
you can find BS34 bodies on ebay. i've been having BS34 issues on my kz1000m1 and may have to replace the #2 body. otherwise, if you are going to go vm, vm28's are what would be the best and easiest from everything that i've been told on kawasakimotorcycles.org.
Click to expand...

Thanks 60ratrod, I have been looking for a #1 carb body on ebay, but haven't scored yet. A friend told me he thinks there is a company that sells new or refurbished ones for about $40 each.

I actually have a set of 29mm smoothbores I am going to eventually put on my gs1000, but was told by a racing guy that they wouldn't give the 16valve 1100e motor enough gas. Another race guy said a good performance improvement that is just bolt on would be the 33mm smoothbores, but the prices for them are WAAAY out of my affordability.
 
If you are using easy outs on YOUR carbs, you should NOT be working on other people's stuff! Sorry, I am a licensed mechanic & it sounds like you don't know what you are doing or are too inexperienced to be learning on other people's stuff. Not meant to insult you, just my observation.
Ray.
 
rapidray said:
If you are using easy outs on YOUR carbs, you should NOT be working on other people's stuff! Sorry, I am a licensed mechanic & it sounds like you don't know what you are doing or are too inexperienced to be learning on other people's stuff. Not meant to insult you, just my observation.
Ray.
Click to expand...

These are my carbs and his are getting done for free...it is a favor. The original plans were to get my carbs done and put them on his bike so he didn't lose any riding time. Not sure that is the plan anymore. My understanding is that this forum is for newbies like me as well as experienced mechanics. I was told by a mechanic that an easy out would work, and they were wrong. Lesson learned. I figured that out already Ray. I am not sure how your critique has added anything productive to my situation Ray, no negativity or finger pointing is really required or requested. My Mom always told me that if I cant say something nice, don't say anything at all.
 
I have now taken a cut-off wheel and sliced into the stuck jet to create a new screw driver slot. It backed out easily this time, probably because I soaked it in Berryman's first. I didn't have to go down as far as the threads. I may use some JB weld or something to fix the cosmetics of the slice in the tower.

Next I plan on rebuilding the float pin holder on carb #3 with the same JB weld high heat temp resistant #8297, unless anyone has a better suggestion or material that should be used.
 
I know how you guys like pics so here it is curing. It was confirmed that this formula is supposed to hold up to gasoline. If not I don't think it will hurt much.
"Pic 1 the butchering"
pilotscrewfix1-1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Pic2 the pilot screw stem fix
pilotscrewfix2-1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Pic 3 the float stem pillar fix
floatpillarfix1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

 
Ive seen a lot of "supposedly" gas resistant post fixes end with a float dangling from the one good post left Works temporarily but over the long haul its a 75 / 25 bet at best in my opinion.

The tower fix isnt a problem provided you had way to preserve the threading all the way out....did you consider that???


Best way to do that would be to use a screw with the same thread ( if it could be even found ) and apply a little oil and wipe it fairly clean. Insert it in the towers good threads and THEN pack in the JB. That way when you backed out the screw, you now have decent threads at the top also.
 
Still looked like plenty of threads, guess we will see. When your poor like me you sometimes have to gamble with stuff.
 
Being poor is the mother of invention and learning. Hope you catch the threads just right and not tear up the parts of the OEM ones that are still there..its an iffy deal. Either catch them just right the first time or sacrifice them to being replaced anyway.

I have used bolts to "mold" threads in to the JB before so then the tap would start in perfect sync and chase true again.
 
New Question

There are 3 small lock washers left over that I have no idea where they go. Are any lock washers used inside the carbs?

These carbs had been apart before because they had 115 pilot screws and they had the caps off already.
They are too small for the bowl screws or top covers, and too large for the bottom of the pilot screw (I had 4 tiny ones for those)
 
Gregory said:
Hello all. I goofed up badly.

I tried an easy out on a pilot jet for my 34mm cv carbs on the 82 gs1100e. The easy out broke off in it and I cant get it drilled out to put a bigger easy out on. I am assuming this carb body is trash now.

I am actually going to be doing two sets of these carbs since my friends 821100e also needs carb cleaning and bigger jets as well.... and one of his also has a pilot screw that doesn't have a slot left in it (although I may do it right).

Since I am in a position to have to spend money anyway, what are the most ideal carbs to run on this bike (was told 33mm smoothbores)? And what is the most affordable option?

I would eventually like to go to a 4-1 and pods but don't have them yet. His bike will remain stock.
Click to expand...

This won't help you now, but maybe for next time. I too tore up the head of a pilot jet and couldn't get it out. I even went as far as searching on ebay for a new carb body. I figured since this carb body was trash, it didn't matter what I did to it now.

So what I did was take a straight head screw driver, stick it in there and hit it 3 or 4 times, hard with a hammer. The screw driver dug right into the brass jet and I was able to screw it out! Again, won't help you now but if you ever get one stuck again maybe try that?
 
Thanks Bille, good to know. The important thing (even though mine is done) is that this info will be retained for future instances for others, or if I have an Alzheimer's episode later.
 
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