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search didnt answer my question

chuck hahn

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
OK..I did the search feature and still cant seem to find anything other than the pilot and air screws on the 78 GS 1000s just say PRESET..DO NOT ADJUST. I wanna tear down and redo the carbs this winter and i was just wondering if any other 78 1000 owners have come up with a good setup to set the screws to when they are reassembled. If so please post away and also send me a PM with that you have discovered to be good settings.. Thanks, Chcuk.
 
One of the first things I did on my 78 was clean the carbs.
I set mine at about 2 out on both for now but from my understanding one should be set about half of the other. Cant rememeber which though.
I'll cross that bridge when the carbs get unwrapped and installed.
 
Well if you get a good setup please remember to pass me along the info..or anyone else out there please pass it along..Thanks.
 
Well thats a good question! I have the settings for both my 77 and 78 750s and they are VM carbs too. I was wondering the exact same thing except that the 1000 having 250 ccs more, would the pilots have to be turned out more or not?? Other than that any richness or lean condition can be adjusted pretty much withn then air screws....I would think.
 
Close them and count the number of turns on each. or, as your bike has a 4 into 1, set the air at 2 turns and the fuel at 1 turn.
 
I was thinking the same thing Dale..I just dont know if they are properly set right now?? I means it runs like a freight train, but you know me. I just wanna be 100% sure to ease my curiosity.
 
Hey Chuck, I think Keith Krause answered your question right here:

"If you feel it's necessary, first try some simple screw adjustments. Be sure the side air screws and pilot fuel screws (underneath) move freely. Mark their current settings and lightly seat them all while noting how far out each is adjusted. This way you can set them back if you like. The side air screws need to be adjusted using the highest rpm method. Set them all initially to 1 1/2 turns and once FULLY warmed up you can fine tune them. Start at any carb, set the idle to 1,000 rpm's by using the idle adjuster knob. Slowly turn an air screw in either direction until you hear the rpm's reach maximum. Then lower the rpm's to the base idle of 1,000 by using the idle adjuster knob. Repeat to all carbs and the air screws are done.
If you feel the pilot fuel screws should be richer then turn them out to richen. They are generally 3/4 to 1 turn out from the factory. They are sensitive to adjustment so you may need just an additional 1/4 turn or so.
Ride the bike around town a few miles at minimal to 1/5 throttle positions and then check the plug coloring. If the plugs are too light/white and the bike seems lean (surging/hesitating) then try richer pilot fuel screw adjustments."

This is from legaleli's thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=166775

I though I'd just seen what you were asking earlier.
 
"pilot screws...generally 3/4 to 1 out from the factory".. That seems a bit low to me because the 750s states that 1 1/4 for the 77 and 1 1/2 for the 78 is factory according to a chart psoted here in the stcky,,post # 43. So wouldnt you think that a 1000 would be at least 1 1/2 at a minimum???
 
"pilot screws...generally 3/4 to 1 out from the factory".. That seems a bit low to me because the 750s states that 1 1/4 for the 77 and 1 1/2 for the 78 is factory according to a chart psoted here in the stcky,,post # 43. So wouldnt you think that a 1000 would be at least 1 1/2 at a minimum???
Sounds reasonable to me, as the 1000 should require more fuel than the 750, I would think.
 
Chuck, it will depend on what pilot jets are in each setup. 1-1/2 & 3/4 for a #15 will not be the same amount of fuel and air supplied to the engine as when used with a #17.5 or a #22.
 
Well i guess when i open them up i should make note of all the jet sizes then we can figure it out more precisely..Oh and Dale, you should see how far off each of the slides are...you know by looking at the gap at the bottoms compared to the throat bore?? Not one is even close to the others. I had suspected that the carbs were in need of a good sync but i didint expect to be able to visually see such a noticeable difference. Even though it runs ok like they are, i think that they were still in need of a lot of fine tuning. i know they could have been a bit different if they had been synced at some point, but i guess you would have to see what i saw when i tore down the bike to really get an appreciation for what i mean.
 
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