• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

seating carbs into boot is extremely difficult

  • Thread starter Thread starter cldowers
  • Start date Start date
C

cldowers

Guest
It is extremely difficult to seat my carbs (1983 GS1100GL) into the boots on the engine. The boots look to be in ok condition. I've tried using some lubrication and just can't get them to seat fully. Any suggestions, or should I just buy some new ones since these are over 30 years old.
 
Try heating them - a hairdryer or heat gun. Failing that, try soaking in some oil of wintergreen solution. But if you can source new boots, that's probably the simplest way to overcome your problem.
 
New clamps will help ensure an airtight seal too. Get the boots good and warm once the carbs are in and thighten the clamps. Between tne clamps and the rubber being soft and squeezable from the heat, youll get a good seal.
 
A ratcheting tie down strap like you use to secure a bike in a truck wrapped around the front of the engine will pull them in nicely. But really the correct answer is to replace the boots. They shrink as well as harden with age. I think the wintergereen oil softens them but probably doesn't help the shrinkage much.
 
Even new ones can be a little trying to seat. A mist of WD-40 will help.
 
I use Vaseline or silicon spray on the inside of the boots and a light coat on the outside of the carb throats. I'll use that clamp, I cited earlier, on one side to get the rack started then with upper body strength push the other side in. Wiggling up and down helps. I've tried the ratchet straps and for me they are not a good fit. I have too much trouble trying to get the strap in the right place and around the cylinders and pull it all together. With that clamp it applies enough force to start one side in and hold it in place. Then easier to pull the other side in with my arms. I've tried two clamps but don't feel like I have the control I need.
 
I have done this and a little lube helps. First I got one side mounted partially on, then used a " 2x4 " ( really ) to brace and push the other side on, worked extremely well ! A " 1x4 " would work well too and add a little flex while applying pressure.
Also I am very careful doing this as my bike is 34 yrs old.
 
mybike said:
I have done this and a little lube helps. First I got one side mounted partially on, then used a " 2x4 " ( really ) to brace and push the other side on, worked extremely well ! A " 1x4 " would work well too and add a little flex while applying pressure.
Also I am very careful doing this as my bike is 34 yrs old.
Click to expand...

I do the same thing...using a scrap of wood or a rubber handled hammer with a wood shaft.
Anything to apply some good force without scratching.
Ratchet straps do work very well also.
 
mybike said:
I have done this and a little lube helps. First I got one side mounted partially on, then used a " 2x4 " ( really ) to brace and push the other side on, worked extremely well ! A " 1x4 " would work well too and add a little flex while applying pressure.
Also I am very careful doing this as my bike is 34 yrs old.
Click to expand...

That's pretty much what I did with mine.
 
This is what I do:

P1100459.jpg


P1100460.jpg


P1100461.jpg
 
Hi,

Buy new boots. You won't have to do it again for another 20 years, well worth the price. May I invite you to click on the link in my sig and visit the BikeCliff website for tons of information on these classic bikes. Start with the READ ME link. Welcome aboard.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Exactly, Cliff.

That's one of first things I do when buying an old bike. If the boots are hard, they are probably cracking on the inside, or on the verge of it. I wouldn't waste my time on wintergreen oil or any other "remedy". Go with new rubber.

I think my 850 was the only one of a dozen old bikes I have bought in the past 15 years that had soft, pliable boots. The rest got new airbox boots as part of their first tune-up. I'm too old to be wrestling with carburetors.
 
+1 On new boots. But if you're like me and need to RIDE NOW maybe try this: I shine a heat lamp at the boots for about 30 minutes to get them nice an warm (and pliable), and rub armor-all over the inside of the boots. The pop right in, no muscle needed.

And the boots are older than I am. One day I'll order some new ones haha.
 
Silicon Spray, wife's hairdryer to get the boots toasty (this is very important) and they'll slip right in. I have done the planks of wood & ratchet strap, have to be careful not to tear the boot that way (it's easy to get the lip trapped on the inside).

Of course new boots help a lot too.

:)
 
New boots are a thing of beauty. And don't forget the airbox boots and new clamps too.

A little lube on the carb boots is okay, but don't lube the airbox boots or they may slip off the backside of the carbs. This is doubly true if the boots have shrunk like they are apt to do.
 
New boots for sure and a little lube, should be no problem then. What order are you trying to install the boots? The air box boots go on first them the intake side boots. Make sure they are rotated right for the fit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top