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Self-cancelling turn signal operation

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Hi guys. I have read the owner's manual to try to figure out how the self-cancelling turn signals work on my '81 GS850G, and I still don't know. When you move the switch either way from center, it moves past a detent and stays there. I can understand how the turn signals might be cancelled electronically, but what about the fact that the switch is still activated? I've had my switch apart and didn't see any mechanism that would physically move the switch back to center position. Anybody have any clues?

Scott
 
Dont know about the 850 but my 1000s youn just press down on the lever to cancel the signals. Your bike have the lever or the plastic pointed deal that operates the signals AND the low / high beams???

EDIT..and on the 1000s the lever does go back to center....saw that detail after rereading your post.
 
Dont know about the 850 but my 1000s youn just press down on the lever to cancel the signals. Your bike have the lever or the plastic pointed deal that operates the signals AND the low / high beams???

EDIT..and on the 1000s the lever does go back to center....saw that detail after rereading your post.

The button is shaped like a stepped pyramid. It slides left and right for the turn signals, as well as north and south for the ligh/low beams.
 
Does it push in maybe??? Im trying to remember how they worked on an old 80 850 I got rid of a while go...but Im thinking it recentred and you pushed the button.
 
Moving the button off center creates continuity in the signal circuit and the lights flash. If you remove the control unit your signals will still flash only the system will be fully manual at that point, no self cancel. I believe the self cancel all occurs in the control module. Pushing the button triggers the timer unit with a momentary pulse.
 
Your left arm straight out to the left is a left turn signal. Out and bent at the elbow with the hand going up is a right signal. No arms extended is a cancelled signal....LOL
 
If it is operating properly, there are actually FIVE positions for that knob. :-k

#1 is to the far left, is spring-loaded to go to position #2. This starts the timing cycle for the left signals.
#2 will keep the left signals on, once the knob has been pushed to #1 to start the cycle. Flashing will stop when the control unit is satisfied.
#3 is in the center, will manually cancel the signals.
#4 will keep the rightsignals on, once the knob has been pushed to #5 to start the cycle. Flashing will stop when the control unit is satisfied.
#5 is to the far right, is spring-loaded to go to position #4. This starts the timing cycle for the right signals.

The control unit will keep the signals on until the bike has travelled over 10 MPH for 10 seconds. This is not always perfect timing, I find that I have to re-start the timing when approaching a long left turn lane, for example.

.
 
Moving the button off center creates continuity in the signal circuit and the lights flash. If you remove the control unit your signals will still flash only the system will be fully manual at that point, no self cancel. I believe the self cancel all occurs in the control module. Pushing the button triggers the timer unit with a momentary pulse.

Hi Ed. So what you're telling me is that if you only push the button part way (i.e. NOT far enough to go past the detents), then that activates the turn signals and they cancel themselves electronically. But if you DO push the button all the way (past the detents), then they'll go until you manually pull the button back. Is that correct?
 
You push the knob all the way over. There is a spring that will return the knob immediately to the detent position. If the auto cancel is working correctly, it will cancel after about 10 seconds if you are traveling at about 10 mph or more. Otherwise, it will stay on. No need to return it to the center position unless you want to manually turn it off. You don't return it to the center position by pushing in on the knob, you slide it over.
 
Not sure if this a real solution but I converted my bike to the manual controls on a 650G and I have no problems.
 
Not sure if this a real solution but I converted my bike to the manual controls on a 650G and I have no problems.

Hi. Thanks for that input, but I'm going for factory complete and correct as much as I can. This bike is the twin to one I bought new in '81 and I want this one to be as close to "new" and original as I can make it.
 
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If it is operating properly, there are actually FIVE positions for that knob. :-k

#1 is to the far left, is spring-loaded to go to position #2. This starts the timing cycle for the left signals.
#2 will keep the left signals on, once the knob has been pushed to #1 to start the cycle. Flashing will stop when the control unit is satisfied.
#3 is in the center, will manually cancel the signals.
#4 will keep the rightsignals on, once the knob has been pushed to #5 to start the cycle. Flashing will stop when the control unit is satisfied.
#5 is to the far right, is spring-loaded to go to position #4. This starts the timing cycle for the right signals.

The control unit will keep the signals on until the bike has travelled over 10 MPH for 10 seconds. This is not always perfect timing, I find that I have to re-start the timing when approaching a long left turn lane, for example.

.
Excellent info. I always wondered what made them turn off.
 
Hi Ed. So what you're telling me is that if you only push the button part way (i.e. NOT far enough to go past the detents), then that activates the turn signals and they cancel themselves electronically. But if you DO push the button all the way (past the detents), then they'll go until you manually pull the button back. Is that correct?

Sorry, I'm not an expert on how the system works but I believe Steve has detailed how the system works.

I believe there is a RH/LH position just off center. If you push past this you go against the spring and the lever returns back to this point. I think that in order to activate the auto cancel unit the lever must be pushed past the first RH/LH position, against the spring. This provides a pulse signal to the TSCU to begin the countdown cycle to turn off the signals. Sorry, but I don't have a bike to check against right now to be sure though.
 
Sorry, I'm not an expert on how the system works. I believe there is a RH/LH position just off center. If you push past this you go against the spring and the lever returns back to this point. I think, but may be wrong, that in order to activate the auto cancel unit the lever must be pushed past the first RH/LH position, against the spring. This provides a pulse signal to the TSCU to begin the countdown cycle to turn off the signals. Again though, this may be faulty thinking. I don't have a bike to check against right now.

Pretty much it. The TSCU will not start the flashing until the lever is pushed all the way to the left or all the way to the right position. The return spring will then bring it back to a "neutral" idle state that simply routes power to the left or right turn signal light from the flasher relay. The TSCU doesn't actually know which side is being flashed. It simply flashes the relay and the switch position then determines which pair of lights is turned on and off. Once the timer is started the TSCU uses the pulsed signal from the reed switch in the speedometer to determine if the bike is moving or not. If the bike is moving faster then 9mph the timer will keep the signal lights flashing until after 10 seconds has elapsed. After that, the TSCU will turn off the flasher relay even though the switch has never returned to center. If the speed drops below 9mph then the timer will hold until it goes above 9mph. If you again press the turn signal switch to the far left or right position before the timer finishes the time is reset to 10 seconds again. If you manually return the turn signal switch to the center position it will turn off the turn signal lights and reset the TSCU to wait for the next far left or far right switch position.
 
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