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Seriously wtf... Stupid carbs...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tiny
  • Start date Start date
T

Tiny

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Rebuold the carbs they said.... Its easy they said...

they lied!

first... Who the hell designs a setup where ya have to move the engine forward to get the carbs free of the airbox???

So i studied every tutorial i could find... Studied the clymer... Followed every step to the t... Finally get the carbs back in and it fires right up... Set the idle, shut it off, hook up the sync tool and stop for the night...

go back this morning with a longer fuel line so i can move the tank out of the way and damn if i cant get the friggin thing to start... Seriously? Nothing changed but after six hrs still wont start... FML!!!

i tried several settings for the air adjustment screws, cleaned and gappedthe plugs, ran down two batteries including a lithium ion...

long story short... Lotsa time... More money than i had... Still wont start... Kill me now!

its a gs650... Any ideas guys?
 
How warmed up was the engine when you set the idle??? If it wasnt very warm then the idle NOW is too low and thus its gonna be hard to start.

Set the mixture screws at the back at about 2 1/2 to 3 out from gently seated. Do NOT twist the throttle when trying to start it. Choke and hands off the grip.

Float hts too high will shut fuel to the bowls off too soon also.....causing the bowls to not fill which in turn means they arent full enough to run the engine. May want to recheck them and be sure to do it from the right spot on the floats.

And lastly...what tututorial did you use ? Hopefully the CV one from Bikecliff.
 
If you are getting full voltage to the coils and you have gas in the bowls (primed again?) then the first thing that would come to mind would be tight valve clearances. If your synch tool is not set properly, you can also create a vacuum leak.

Also, you really shouldn't need to move the engine to get the carbs in and out, but it is a buggery tight fit. Silicone spray lube and new boots are your friends here.
 
Good point Bill. Where is the petcock set at..if your using the tank. And also, is the vacuum line to the petcock plugged with a screw or something since you said something about taking the tank off. If not out a bolts in it or a golf tee to stop the massive vacuum leak.

EDIT..and if the tank is off and the vacuum from the carbs to the petcock isnt connected youll need to either get a longer vac line from the tank to the carbs or set it in the PRIme spot so fuel will flow. Do the carb sync and be CERTAIN the petcock is put back in the ON spot soon as your shutting the bike down.
 
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No one lied, you just didn't do it right...yet. Slow your roll and take your time doing the repairs, getting in a hurry doesn't work. Listen to the advice you get here, it'll be running in no time.
 
You said it fired up before. You will want to make sure that it isn't something else simple before assuming that you messed up the carb rebuild. I've given myself extra problems by second guessing myself. I use longer clear gas line so I can see what the gas is doing. (i.e. running low or flowing) Make sure you have spark. Pulling the plugs is much easier than pulling carbs. Check your rectifier/stator connections. I'm not sure what yours look like, but my bullet connectors have become dislodged when I'm working on the bike. Not having a good ground connection can cause you grief. Check your fuses. (Don't know if you have separate one for spark and start) Anyway, I hope you find that your carb build is good and it is a simple fix.
 
650's are a bitch. Like BigD83 said it's can be done w/o moving the engine.
 
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