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Sh633 R/R Test

  • Thread starter Thread starter trepperuna
  • Start date Start date
T

trepperuna

Guest
Hi!
I'm trying this replace for my '84 gsx550 Regulator/Rectifier (the old one overcharges).
After some researches (and the big help from the forum!) it looks like it should be good for the bike.
I found it on ebay, so I'm not sure if it's working fine, but it passed the diode test. Anyway it looks good.
My question is on the strange behavior of the battery voltage: it never goes over 13,7V from idle to 5000 rpm. Actually at idle is less constant and ranges from 13,5V to 14V , then drops to this steady 13,7.
Do you think this could be normal??
I've also made a Y connection to the negative wire from the R/R to be directly connected to the negative pole of the battery.
I don't think is a matter of other electrical parts since I've never noticed this drop with the old one (that started from 14V and arrived to 17V), but I'm not sure.
Any clue?? Please.
 
Yeah, that sounds bad.

you should send it to me, i'll dispose of it properly..


actually those voltages ranges are pretty normal and are good.
 
If your voltmeter is accurate, the R/R is not charging at the optimum rate. 13.7 volts, while not allowing the battery to discharge, is not enough to fully charge the battery. An undercharged battery gradually sulfates and the battery charge capacity diminishes until it fails.

The normal charging rate should be 14.4 - 14.8 volts at 5,000 RPM in order to fully charge the battery.
 
That was my concern... too low voltage!
So you think I bought a faulty part? Or there's any other test or wire connection I can try?
I'm now wondering if it could be better to place the old r/r back (that was actually more or less still working) or keep this...
Thanks, anyway
 
Reading around and testing with another new big (it was actually one of those big scooters), I noticed that this 13,6-13,8V recharge is a pretty common value. Also the apparent tension drop from idle to higher rpm appeared in the other bike. My guess is that may be some kind of conservative standard for new regulator, and that the one I mounted works fine.
The problem might still be that it doesn't work fine for our bikes!! That need higher voltage recharge.
Beside long term sulfation , I wonder if I can have short term discharge of the battery during city rides. I'll give it a try carrying the voltmeter with me.

@Boondocks: I read in another post your idea about applying the "increase the charge voltage of your alternator" (that you linked) to the permanent magnet type alternators.... any step forward in that direction? I thought about the gouge wire that the 6 wires regulators have (the one to be connected to the tail lights): if that's the reference, the final voltage could be tricked that way? But I have no idea how the max voltage circuitry of the reg is chosen....:oops:
This wouldn't be my case anyway (5 wires from the SH633) but maybe I can work from there.
Thanks
 
5 wires on the regulator= can't change voltage if one of the wires is connected to the casing (housing) connection.
on automotive regulators years ago 13.8-14.2v was the accepted standard even though battery sulphation was a problem hence they upped the output voltage standard, you could try it it will probably be ok unless you drive short distances and at low speeds and if you don't have any add on accessories, more than likely will be just fine. if not try a different shindengen r/r others have been suggested in this site.
 
Actually in the one I have it appears to be no connection between the wires and the regulator case (at list not a direct connection). No low impedance.
So I think it gets the reference from the negative wire. But that is directly connected to the battery, so maybe isn't a good idea to put a diode there because of the high current. But I could be wrong.
From what you say I will probably have problems since I use the bike in town too and I always have the lights on (new italian regulations!!), plus a small cpu fan to chill the regulator.... :(
Hope I won't have to push my 220 Kg bike to turn it on (not again!!!)
 
I wouldn't consider the adjustable voltage setup that I referenced in a link. This is a technically involved device that might be considered by someone developing a new R/R but is not a simple add-on option.

Your best option at this point may be to get a quality "smart" battery charger that has a harness permanently hooked up to the battery terminals. Then you can simply plug the charger into the harness and leave it connected when you are not riding. This will keep the battery at full charge and extend its life.

The Soneil 1206S is a smart battery charger that I highly recommend. I prefer it to the Battery Tender Plus. It charges very fast without overcharging and works with any kind of 12 volt auto/motorcycle battery. It is also sold under other names, including ACI 1206CC and Battery Defender Plus ACC-1206WB. I don't know if this charger is available in Italy, but I think you can find one somewhere near.
 
OK thanks.... I thought I did solve my recharging problems with the new regulator... Is this thing ever going to end!!
I'll look fot the smart charger, but since in summer the bike will stay parked outside, maybe I better look for another (more tested) regulator.

This looks to me as another issue in the search of a replacing R/R.
This sh633 appared to have all the good credits to fit (3-ph, permanent magnet, correct fitting holes,....), but is a 2001 production, and maybe some of this new stuff have this 13.6V standard. As I said I tested another vehicle, having same results.
 
Before getting another r/r Try it first!, more than not it will be fine.
the the battery charger was a great idea.
and you can home brew one yourself .
 
Last edited:
It isn't giving me problems yet. And after a longer ride (with 30?C today!) I mesured some 13,9V... getting better :-D
Maybe i'll buy a new (used) one as spare part.
I like the idea of making a charger by miself, can you please link a scheme of something suitable for my needs?
 
Trepperuna, are you certain that your voltmeter is accurate and not reading low? Try the voltage test again at 5,000 RPM with a digital voltmeter of known accuracy just to be sure.
 
The Voltmeter I brought with me in the bike isn't that accurate, In fact with the 13,9V read I was just kidding (myself!):it was kind of sparky. But all the other mesureses have also been done with a better one, giving same results. Also on the other bike I used both and had same values. Even the "dropping behavior" (14V on idle and then flattered to 13,7V as soon as rpm raises) appered with both voltmetrs. I can try with another one (maybe analog) but I don't think will change much.
 
Pisa, nice place

Pisa, nice place

Trepperuna,... been to Pisa it was a nice place.. had a (Honda 360t) shipped over when I was stationed at Brindisi.... 2187 comm grp USAF..
Loved the tour there and wish to come back and see some omore when I don't have a need to quickly return somewhere.

Joe
 
Thanks rustybronco for the circuitry.I'll start from there. Hope to have time to make it up before my electronic supplier goes on vacations (and it does it for incredibly long times.... good for him!).

@GS550joe: I'm glad you liked this place, if you had the bike with you I hope you went riding along the country around here. All those nice countrysides in many US movies are shot in the inner south of Tuscany. I'm curious to know how long it took for a motorbike to be shipped from United States to Italy (unless it was within some military shipping)
 
Just to give some last informations:
the piece is still working fine after a very hot summer!:lol:
I have to admit I didn't stress it too much (little time for riding), but I was giong around with a voltmeter, testing it quite often.
It gets quite hot very quickly, so I mounted it on an alluminium plate and put a little computer fan in from of it (I might post pictures as soon as I take some). The heat conducting paste between the R/R and the plate doesn't seem to interfere with the frame contact (it is a 5 wires R/R).
 
I'm reopening this post after a long time 'cause I believe the test can now be considered finished and the results can be useful for future generations :-D.
I made a 2000Km trip this summer and the bike stopped half the way: battery down!
I have to say that it was 45?C in shadow that day in the highway (113?F) and the little cpu fan I installed to chill the R/R broke a few hours before. All the lights were on during the travel (it's the law!).
I retested the R/R with the multimeter when I got back (with a car battery inside the back trunk!:?) and I had the same Volts values I reported before for idle and 5000 rpm.
I think there are 4 possibilities:
1) too hot for the R/R circuitry to work fine.
2) because of something the R/R broke on the way even if it now gives correct values (I retested the stator and is fine)
3) the Sh633 isn't good for our bikes since it recharges too little even in long rides (but with lights on)
4) I have a current discharge somewhere in the bike and the R/R is still fine

bye


Just for the 4th case: does anyone knows how to test for an eventual current leak? what should be the absorption of the running bike?
thanks
 
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