C
ChicagoBob
Guest
Check out Roadstercycle.com, and his videos, for a lot of info about rectifier conversions.
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Steve
GS Whisperer
A quick glance through the thumbnail pictures on eBay narrows down the list a bit, as it's easy to spot the correct electrical connections and virtually everybody shows them. Then the fun begins. Look through any other pictures, see if any of them actually show the SH775, like the picture you just showed. If that is NOT shown, there are some other clues.
Look through the rest of the eBay listing:
- If the item is "New", it's not an SH775.
- If the item is from China, it's not an SH775.
- If the item has a black panel on the bottom, it's not an SH775.
- If all the fins are straight, with no round bits on them, it's not an SH775.
- If there are round nubs, but they are not on every other fin, it's not an SH775.
- All SH775 regulators have fins with round nubs and the nubs are on every other fin.
- All SH775 regulators have a silver metal plate on the bottom.
- All SH775 regulators have three terminals in the gray connector on the left and TWO terminals in the black connector on the right.
This picture is from DB Electrical, and is their replacement for the Polaris RZR:
Compare the round nubs to an SH775:
I took a look at Roadstercycle.com. He is only selling the 50-amp SH847, which is a nice upgrade, but he is only selling it as a complete kit with wiring, and it's $200.
The SH775 has a capacity of 35 amps, and our bikes typically top out about 25, so the extra capacity of the SH847 is wasted.
.
G
Guest
Guest
ok, while I've been waiting for parts to get here, I've started to replace and clean all the electrical contacts and the Fuse box... the main fuse has gotten so hot that it started to melt the plastic around that buss.. a bit of epoxy to repair and polishing the contacts.. ![IMG_20180816_183001103[1].jpg](https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/data/attachments/5/5571-07b88a819012835b77adf13be63b1b7b.jpg?hash=XKzkena9_H "IMG_20180816_183001103[1].jpg")
G
Guest
Guest
Shunt knock off SH775 compared to Used SH775
Shunt knock off SH775 compared to Used SH775
Notice the subtle differences between the SH775 and the knock off shunt ...![IMG_20180816_182729473[1].jpg](https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/data/attachments/5/5586-4eddf98172d1c7821a60e53293e6dab0.jpg?hash=vrUZKbih3j "IMG_20180816_182729473[1].jpg")
The real SH775 is on the right.
Shunt knock off SH775 compared to Used SH775
Notice the subtle differences between the SH775 and the knock off shunt ...
The real SH775 is on the right.
G
Guest
Guest
I've installed the SH775, spent a week cleaning replacing and checking wires. Replaced a BUNCH of connectors... Going through the quick charging test I've found that the Voltage across the battery does not go higher than 13.8 volts. I don't see a different check for the series R/R vs the shunt.. Voltage out of the stator is >88 v on each leg at 5000rpm at idle the voltage across battery leads is down to 12.5v .... I may have boiled the battery when the R/R died ? but it seems to check out ok..
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Also measure each stator leg to ground at 5K RPM. Should be 0 VAC. this will help verify that your stator is OK.
Measure and post all 6 of your Quick Test #'s. See below (quoted from posplayr)
EDIT 8/10/2016: Make the measurements by stabbing the center posts of your battery. These are direct battery measurements. Avoid any connections.
EDIT 2/27/2014 : Read about the latest SERIES R/R's that are available
Stator Pages
Sometime people get a little confused in the details of doing the stator pages and sometimes they forget to check their battery. So just to help things along if someone is a bit confused and needs a sanity check.
These tests are NOT mandatory as long as you know you have a good battery and can follow your way through the stator pages. Otherwise it is just a nice real quick test.
NOTE THIS IS NOT TO REPLACE THE STATOR PAGES. IT IS JUST A QUICK FIRST SANITY TEST TO see the battery is good enough to proceed with the STATOR PAGES. The first part of the stator pages will actually measure how good your connections are and goes well beyond this QUICK check.
Quick Test Steps:
1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts
2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts
3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts
4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts
5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts
6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
QUICK TEST Diagnosis Summary:
Basically Step #1 and #2 is making sure the battery is charged and in good health. The drop should be about 0.5 volts for normal headlamp and coil load (without cranking the starter). Anymore than 0.5V drop indicates the battery is weak even though the static voltage is OK (12.7-12.8V). If your battery is any lower it can have an effect on your charging voltages as the charging system only has so much capacity and will be drug down by a poor battery.
Step #3 is get a baseline starting voltage. This will vary some depending upon your idle and the particular R/R you have. It could be lower than the off voltage or as you idle up it will increase to 13.0 v
Step #4 by the time you get to 2500 RPM you should have close to the maximum output voltage even if you have bad connections. You are not pushing as much current and this shows that the stator is likely good.
Step #5 by the voltage at 5000 RPM being higher than at 2500 RPM you have a pretty good indication that your connections are good. If the voltage at 5000 drops from 2500 you have bad connections. If you already checked the grounds then it is likely in the positive legs between R/R(+) and Battery (+) check fuse box and the large bullet connector to the battery. The voltage climbs above 15.0 V it is likely the R/R not regulating and is bad bad.
Step #6 If after running for a few seconds in a charging state the voltage to the battery should have risen a bit. If it is lower than where you started then you did not charge at all, Again this will vary some what depending upon how long you let the bike run.
Measure and post all 6 of your Quick Test #'s. See below (quoted from posplayr)
EDIT 8/10/2016: Make the measurements by stabbing the center posts of your battery. These are direct battery measurements. Avoid any connections.
EDIT 2/27/2014 : Read about the latest SERIES R/R's that are available
Stator Pages
Sometime people get a little confused in the details of doing the stator pages and sometimes they forget to check their battery. So just to help things along if someone is a bit confused and needs a sanity check.
These tests are NOT mandatory as long as you know you have a good battery and can follow your way through the stator pages. Otherwise it is just a nice real quick test.
NOTE THIS IS NOT TO REPLACE THE STATOR PAGES. IT IS JUST A QUICK FIRST SANITY TEST TO see the battery is good enough to proceed with the STATOR PAGES. The first part of the stator pages will actually measure how good your connections are and goes well beyond this QUICK check.
Quick Test Steps:
1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts
2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts
3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts
4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts
5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts
6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
QUICK TEST Diagnosis Summary:
Basically Step #1 and #2 is making sure the battery is charged and in good health. The drop should be about 0.5 volts for normal headlamp and coil load (without cranking the starter). Anymore than 0.5V drop indicates the battery is weak even though the static voltage is OK (12.7-12.8V). If your battery is any lower it can have an effect on your charging voltages as the charging system only has so much capacity and will be drug down by a poor battery.
Step #3 is get a baseline starting voltage. This will vary some depending upon your idle and the particular R/R you have. It could be lower than the off voltage or as you idle up it will increase to 13.0 v
Step #4 by the time you get to 2500 RPM you should have close to the maximum output voltage even if you have bad connections. You are not pushing as much current and this shows that the stator is likely good.
Step #5 by the voltage at 5000 RPM being higher than at 2500 RPM you have a pretty good indication that your connections are good. If the voltage at 5000 drops from 2500 you have bad connections. If you already checked the grounds then it is likely in the positive legs between R/R(+) and Battery (+) check fuse box and the large bullet connector to the battery. The voltage climbs above 15.0 V it is likely the R/R not regulating and is bad bad.
Step #6 If after running for a few seconds in a charging state the voltage to the battery should have risen a bit. If it is lower than where you started then you did not charge at all, Again this will vary some what depending upon how long you let the bike run.
I have wondered that myself. And they all look like the were picked off a vehicle that had sunk to the bottom of a mud bog, stayed there for a while, then raised up and parted out . Sellers don't even bother to clean the mud off.
FYI something to check out. These look real and are quite a bit smaller than the SH775 (footprint, slightly taller).
Compufire has extended their line and they are slightly more efficient and use less power than the SH-775. In practice, they are virtually identical (except for being smaller), but I just wanted to alleviate any doubt about these.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?253112-Cheap-NOS-Compufire-stock-on-EBAY
Compufire has extended their line and they are slightly more efficient and use less power than the SH-775. In practice, they are virtually identical (except for being smaller), but I just wanted to alleviate any doubt about these.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?253112-Cheap-NOS-Compufire-stock-on-EBAY
