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Sharing my results after fine tuning my '79 GS1000

Motodog74

Motodog74

Forum Newbie
IMG_0029.jpg
Exhaust + Pods, VM26 carbs. When I got the bike it was all set to stock specs, and had to rebuild the head so all from above the cylinders was rebuilt fresh.
After reading a lot in the forums about how to properly tune for pods and seeing others success (or not!), decided to start messing with them to finally make it run right.
Don't have any fancy tools like colortune or any kind of digital gadget to measure anything available, only my trusted carb sync tool with 4 manometers that I've used on other engines successfully and are properly calibrated.

So with that out of the way, my results are:
Main 112 (from 95 factory)
Pilot 15
Needle on 3rd slot from the top
Fuel level 24mm
Fuel screw 7/8 out
Air screw 1-1/8 out
(and waiting for the air corrector screws to arrive)

With those settings it starts with the push of the button cold or hot, idles evenly, drops quickly to a steady idle, pulls strong through the entire range (might be a bit lean at the top end) so no complains there.
What I'm wondering is, how is it possible that I've seen similar setups on this same engine, with same carbs, using a 135 main, 2 1/2 turns on fuel and air screw (or even more), 17.5 pilot and runs great?
Through my trial and error, tested these settings and there was no way to make it run right, always went towards the rich side, no matter what.

Mine's got a 4-1 with no muffler and pods, but carb tuning is closer to factory spec. Maybe I'm missing something here? Or should I just settle for what it is now and leave it at that?
 
Every bike is its own animal, If your happy leave it alone. A colortune will prove the fuel /air mixture. Maybe tweak the airscrews a bit with the colortune to get it perfect.
 
If it starts with a push of the button cold in cold temps (without choke), there may be a tiny bit of tweaking yet to do, but you guys are in the warm season now, so ...
 
Yeah got to the point where the air screws can throw it off just by looking at them, so I'd leave it alone.
Couldn't help to be surprised by the result, started from 1 turn out each screw and the best I got it running were the settings I've posted. I was expecting to be closer to 2 turns out given the exhaust + pods combo and all the info I could gather.
 
Elevation makes a difference too. Also be aware that some people will be using Dynojet Kit & the jets are not comparable size markings, the sizes marked on a Dynojet would be a bigger number, from memory (it was a long time ago like 15 years of something since I last messed with mine).... 135 DJ main sound like the bigger of the two they supply in their kit.
 
Most likely DJ numbers for that 135 then. Got a 135 Mikuni main and it's waaay too much. Also DJ comes with a different shape needle.
Right now it has a 112 main sourced from my parts bin, probably taken from a TK26 set for a GPZ550 that I had long time ago for parts.

About doing a plup chop, that'll be a tricky one, as the only way to stop the engine is with the ignition key and it's located on the right side, below the tank. Need that extra hand there :)
 
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