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Sheared the Starter Clutch Bolts Again

  • Thread starter Thread starter CCM911
  • Start date Start date
C

CCM911

Guest
Hello:

The three bolts holding my starter gear to the flywheel sheared last year, so I made the repair this spring.

So I put about two hundred miles on the bike (1983 GS1100ED), and I began to hear a knocking sound at idle. Then the battery light went on, and the starter just spun and spun, rather than engaging and starting.

So I removed the sidecover and the flywheel, and guess what? All three bolts holding on the starter gear were once again sheared off.

Am I doing something wrong that is causing these bolts to break?

At this point, it is an easy fix, but I would prefer to fix it once and for all.

Any advice?

Thanks so much for reading.....
 
Loctite - yes. I tightened them as tight as I can.

But I used the factory bolts. This time I am moving up to Grade 8 at the least!!!
 
Isn't there a modification to delay ignition firing till starter comes up to speed to avoid kickback on these monsters.?
 
I always go well past factory torque specs on these especially with good grade bolts.
Use a torque wrench, it is held on not only by the bolt itself but also by the friction between the two when it is torqued down. Hard part is holding it to torque, get creative without messing up the rotor.
 
CCM911 said:
Hello:

The three bolts holding my starter gear to the flywheel sheared last year, so I made the repair this spring.

So I put about two hundred miles on the bike (1983 GS1100ED), and I began to hear a knocking sound at idle. Then the battery light went on, and the starter just spun and spun, rather than engaging and starting.

So I removed the sidecover and the flywheel, and guess what? All three bolts holding on the starter gear were once again sheared off.

Am I doing something wrong that is causing these bolts to break?

At this point, it is an easy fix, but I would prefer to fix it once and for all.

Any advice?

Thanks so much for reading.....
Click to expand...
...................hi you brobably used the wrong grade of bolt... and don,t over tighten ,, use some loctite regards oldgrumpy
 
Does anyone have the bolt sizes I will need, or will I have to order the faactory ones and then match up at the hardware store?
 
You will need to go to a "specialty" fastener store or order online to get what you need. I would just order them from Suzuki. Ray.
 
Bringing this thread back to life.. I just sheared my bolts off. I have access to grade 12 bolts through my work. but ive read you can drill tap to m10 bolts, which sounds good. but I also hear of welding it, but where exactly and what points do you weld at?? thanks
 
blacksmoke611 said:
Bringing this thread back to life.. I just sheared my bolts off. I have access to grade 12 bolts through my work. but ive read you can drill tap to m10 bolts, which sounds good. but I also hear of welding it, but where exactly and what points do you weld at?? thanks
Click to expand...

3 welds, approx 1-1.5" long ... above each of the loctited OEM bolts, joining 'clutch' to rotor.
maybe someone has a photo?

(I would steer away from tapping for larger bolts. just my 2c)
 
ptexotik said:
I would steer away from tapping for larger bolts. just my 2c
Click to expand...
Why? Just wondering because that had sounded like a very good idea to me and I had intended on doing that.
However I have no experience with these starter clutch bolts ... yet.:p
 
quexpress said:
Why? Just wondering because that had sounded like a very good idea to me and I had intended on doing that.
However I have no experience with these starter clutch bolts ... yet.:p
Click to expand...

just overkill imo.
and for these two surfaces to be 'mated' together as designed, I wouldn't be confident that simply going to bigger holes (yes, bigger bolts too I get it) would really address the initial problem. (?)
Having them welded ... I'd be less worried about any possible imbalances of material lost / added.
plus, I've had the weld done ... and it's great peace of mind :)
 
ptexotik said:
just overkill imo.
and for these two surfaces to be 'mated' together as designed, I wouldn't be confident that simply going to bigger holes (yes, bigger bolts too I get it) would really address the initial problem. (?)
Having them welded ... I'd be less worried about any possible imbalances of material lost / added.
plus, I've had the weld done ... and it's great peace of mind :)
Click to expand...

3 larger bolts would still be perfectly in balance, surely you would need the rotor REbalanced after welding as all 3 welds would not be exactly the same? :confused:
 
change your riding habits and make sure your parts are in 100% good condition.
most starter clutches break with high rev/closed throttle and heavy down shifts.
the clunking on the start up is the result after the S/C is already damaged.
 
blowerbike said:
change your riding habits and make sure your parts are in 100% good condition.
most starter clutches break with high rev/closed throttle and heavy down shifts.
the clunking on the start up is the result after the S/C is already damaged.
Click to expand...

Dredging up an old thread, but I,ve sheared my starter clutch bolts twice in quick succession.This is on my 1135 race bike, is welding them the best option?
 
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