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Shim size going up?!?

  • Thread starter Thread starter esmithers
  • Start date Start date
If theres only half gallon of gas put it on PRI or put another gallon of gas in. RES wont prime dry carbs from running them out of gas....that's why theres a PRIME setting!!!


Prime them for about 30 seconds or so and it will start.
 
Chuck, the carbs had fuel already in them prior to removing the tank to deal with the valves. they were not dry.

any note all the carbs are filled with fuel i just checked and well seems somewhere have missed a connection or something came loose. damn bike wont fire up. so back to square one. figure out why the plugs are not firing..

So now i have to remove the tank and check all my connections once more and get the old trusty multimeter out and check connections.
 
Not firing now (but was before you said)- check the 4 pole connector plug (under seat on right side) that connects ignition coils to ignitor. One wire feeds 12 volt positive to ignitor.
 
What he needs is a close member to go and lay eyes on whatever has been rearranged etc etc.

He once had a nice spark and now he doesn't.

The carbs are as clean as they will ever be.

He said he has new coils and wires and caps.

The carbs are getting fuel.

Exhaust isn't plugged.

Said he saw the valves moving so they arent stuck.

Said he had numbers well over 100s for PSI on all 4 cylinders.

Said he has all the valves within spec.

Said he replaced the ignitor with an Ebay one that the seller said was good and showed him a video of the supposedly running bike it came off of...but was it really a good ignitor??? Who knows.

He has eliminated all the mechanical stuff so its gotta be electrical somewhere I would think. Corroded connections, broke wire somewhere, bad ignition part..something other than valves and the carbs
 
i am getting 11.5 volts to the coils via Coil relay Mod.

from all that is check i believe my signal generator is not correctly functioning.

the no spark from earlier today must have been too bright to see the arching plugs, but now that we have dark clouds above i am able to see the coils are firing on all four.

Tomorow i am going to get some ether and new plugs for the bike, and see if possibly the plugs went bad. who knows at this point. any suggestions outside of what has been established is greatly welcomed.

Chuck, thanks for the idea of the plugged exhaust, that help ensure one thing that i would have not even thought about checking.

Additionally. with the exhaust off i seen no major defects to the tubing that would allow inadequate back pressure. they were all rusty but very solid and were good enough to bring the bike to stock.

Tom, as mentioned, the plugs are firing and i have the relay Mod in place to have constant voltage to the coils.

thanks everyone for your ideas and suggestions.
 
"......from all that is check i believe my signal generator is not correctly functioning."

If you are firing on all four , the signal generator is sending the trigger signal to ignitor.
But are you sure that you got wiring right when you replaced your ignitor?
 
Why such a faint spark that he cant see it in normal day light conditions. Heck I can see my sparks plenty bright out in the driveway on a sunny day!!

He may have a spark but it may be too weak, Tom203???? Sporadically igniting the fuel or not at all ???? Yes / No???
 
well i didnt see them when i was testing, and when i went back out to start diagnosing, i checked them out and they were firing. they were not strong fat sparks but they were there.. i could grab the plug wires and feel the pulsing if the coils.

so this might be the problem, having the weak undefined spark compare to fat thick spark.

damn bike! once i complete and fix one issue another one develops..

this could be what was giving the sporatic explosion within the cylinder if the spark is too weak.

well if this is the case what needs to be done to improve the spark? relay is working and i have constant volts to the coils..what else could i do to have a strong spark.. i am now confused and this is irritating me.
 
Are they gapped right?? .028 to .035 is the usual motorcycle engine ranges. Try them at say .032ish and see if the spark is snappier. I think you said they were new..right? Did you check the gap out of the box or just put them in? B8ES or equivalent???
 
they were the direct NGK replacements. I gapped them prior to placing on the bike. they from what i remember all but maybe one were at gap or just a smidgeon off.

chuck if you could call me and i can explain in great details of what i did from the beginning of getting the bike to now.

I do beleive i have met my match.. typically i love working on Suzuki's and love my Madura but this bike has me bent all kinds of directions without any end in site.

Sorry for those who cherish these bikes, i feel that a complete restoration from ground up does not warrant this with this bike.
 
Put the leads in the coil wire connectors leaving the coils plugged in as normal and turn on the key..read the voltage. Next, leave the leads in and crank it and watch what the voltage does then. Does it drop severly? Does it stay close to then non cranking number?

Its for sure an electrical gremlin. I was wondering if while cranking your loosing so much voltage the coils wont fire right.
 
thats my plan for tomorow, i am going to take my tester and check for volts and ohms for the electrical/ignition system. additionally check for any voltage drops with the bike cranking.

i hope by doing so i unearth the problem or fix it in the process of checking everything.
 
Also clean all the ground points from the wiring harness to the frame. Most gather up right near the front of the battery box. Clean them and the areas around where the loops make contact.

You can have standing good voltage at the coils where they plug into the harness and the second you hit the bucket its dropped so severe that the coils wont fire..or fire very weakly if at all.

Like I said..put the leads in and turn on the key and see whats going on and then again when you hit the button. Let us know what happens. I am grasping at straws since im not right there. But its something I would check if it was my bike acting up.
 
Last edited:
Shes Alive!!!

Shes Alive!!!

Well i figured what was wrong and boy is she running smooth.

Apparently i had the plugs wired up wrong. so as it sits on the bike this is the setup.

left coil: #2 and # 3 Cylinder
Right Coil: #1 and #4 Cylinder.

dont understand apparently from what i can gather is PO(s) had removed the coils before and in doing so the signal wires are suppose to go to a particular coil and they are not interchangeable when having the timing correct.

this being said this is my fault for not ensuring these were the correct hook ups when i was labeling them as i remove the harness for cleaning.


So everyone thanks for all the suggestions and sticking with me. of all things that it turn out to be was a two wires switched. :(

lesson learned and dully noted.

Chuck appreciate all the help man.

LASTLY ALL THE PIPES ARE HOTT, SO MISSION COMPLETE.
 
Isn't it the way it always is, something really simple that you can't see for the forest. Glad you got her purring again. Ray
 
after i switched them and she came alive and all the pipes were hot.. i was so ****ed off at myself and really ashamed that i was over thinking everything and was not being patient in making sure everything was in the correct order.

Chuck, sometimes the simplistic jobs cause the smartest to create chaos. thanks for hanging in there. if it was for me taken the wiring apart again and researching the diagram for the bike i would have never caught it.
 
Well, I don't want to brag, but back in post #6, I asked if the wires were on the correct plugs, and mentioned that the left coil NORMALLY powered 1&4, etc.

OK, so I didn't come right out and say that it might be backwards, but I dropped a pretty good hint at what it should be.
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
And he confirmed they were Steve. But with the coils plugged in 180 out at the harness..well you see the problem now .
 
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