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shiming valves, 8 valve

  • Thread starter Thread starter kjsamm
  • Start date Start date
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kjsamm

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Sorry guys but im a bit confused. I am shiming my valves and i am stuck. 83 Gs850gld. For cam position for checking clearence it says to have it in one of 2 positions A or B (lobe up or outward) a little confused on which position it should be in because i get a drastic difference in clearence depending on what position it is in. And when checking clearence for each valve should its lobe always be in say position A, or does it matter if for example your doing exhaust for #3 and #4 and one is positon B and the other is position A. Or should you rotate the cam for each clearence check so the lobe is always up? Sorry if i confused you.
 
Yes i have read through that. But still a bit confused. For example when checking the intake for #3 following those instuctions the clearence for that valve is 0.01mm but if i roate it so the lube is up like when checking #4 intake the clearence goes to 0.05. Which is right? So should i check the clearence exactly how the guide says or should i check them all in the same position say pointing up?
 
The guide is based on the factory service manual procedure. Checking the way you did increases clearance because the adjacent valve pushes up on the cam and skews it in the journal clearance.
 
I believe it doesnt matter to just check with lobe up, iirc thats how I did mine & the bike has run mint ever since:) I used the large zip-tie under valve method(very easy) and got the heavyier ties from Harbor freight for a couple bucks..and havent used the others since:) I went to my local dealer for the shims they still had stashed away(at parts counter).
 
Yup, F the manual. What the h3ll does Suzuki know anyway.:clap:
 
Nessism said:
The guide is based on the factory service manual procedure. Checking the way you did increases clearance because the adjacent valve pushes up on the cam and skews it in the journal clearance.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Thanks, that makes sense.
 
Yes, the manual is a bit confusing, but VERY NECESSARY.

The cam lobes on one side of the engine (let's pick on EX1 and EX2) will both be pointing away from their valves at a bit of an angle when EX1's lobe is pointing FORWARD and EX2's lobe is pointing UP. In that position, check BOTH valves. Rotate the crank 1/2 turn, you will see that the lobes for IN1 and IN2 are in position to check BOTH valves. Another 1/2 turn of the crank will line up EX3 and EX4. A final 1/2 turn of the crank will get you IN3 and IN4.

Using any other cam positions is guaranteed to get you incorrect clearances. :-\\\

.
 
Nessism said:
Yup, F the manual. What the h3ll does Suzuki know anyway.:clap:
Click to expand...

I agree! They say to use the factory tool to change the shims and we all know that the factory workers used plastic zip ties. right? Screw the factory method! :clap:
 
kjsamm said:
Yes i have read through that. But still a bit confused. For example when checking the intake for #3 following those instuctions the clearence for that valve is 0.01mm but if i roate it so the lube is up like when checking #4 intake the clearence goes to 0.05. Which is right? So should i check the clearence exactly how the guide says or should i check them all in the same position say pointing up?
Click to expand...

In my most recent valve checks I followed the manual closely, since I hadn't done it for years. Previously, I'd simply checked them the same way as any other OHC engine with the heel of the cam facing the bucket - obviously that's the point of maximum clearance, so you would think.
But no - these engines have their own little peculiarities and I found by checking according to the manual's positions, I got different clearances, and ones I'm now sure are right, compared to what they would have been before.
Using the 'obvious' method, I never had any running problems, but it wasn't optimal.
 
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