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shimming the needle?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ddz
  • Start date Start date
D

ddz

Guest
hey all,
im putting the bigger main in my 1980 1000g and trying to shim the needle.There is a fat lil plastic spacer on top of the needle(above the c-clip . If i try to shim the needle (under the c- clip) this spacer is not letting me? should i move the spacer UNDER the c-clip, or Not use this spacer at all?
Please help !
thanks
Vinny
ps : these are the cv34ss carbs.stock air box , new boots & O rings
 
Last edited:
You could try putting the spacer under the c-clip and see how it works out for you. If that raises the needle too much, try removing the spacer and using one or two small washers instead. You can get a pack of washers small enough to fit from Radio Shack.

I learned this tip right here on this forum! =D>
 
Thanks for the reply. I did what you said to one carb.Its getting late here so ill try the others tomorrow & see what happens. i'll post tomorrow good or bad .....
Wish me luck[-o<
Vinny
 
Well finished the jetting & it seems GREAT !Im gonna go riden & see how much better she runs\\:D/ \\:D/ . Thaks rudy & everyone else on this site , you all make owning an old suzi "do-able" \\:D/ \\:D/
Much thanks,
Vinny
 
I was wondering why you thought you had to shim the needle just because you installed a larger main jet??
 
Hi scotty
I put new exhaust (mac 4-2) on the bike & it seems much more free flowing than the original pipes were.The plugs were also whiter when i checked em . So from asking around here & reading past posts i was told to increasae the main jet by 1 size & shim the needle for a start. Seems good so far .Im gonna do some riding when the wife returns & see how the top end is(wasnt pulling as hard in the higher rpms).I'll post tonight & let ya kow how it went
Vinny
 
ddz said:
Hi scotty
I put new exhaust (mac 4-2) on the bike & it seems much more free flowing than the original pipes were.The plugs were also whiter when i checked em . So from asking around here & reading past posts i was told to increasae the main jet by 1 size & shim the needle for a start. Seems good so far .Im gonna do some riding when the wife returns & see how the top end is(wasnt pulling as hard in the higher rpms).I'll post tonight & let ya kow how it went
Vinny
Click to expand...

That sound correct. goog luck((also good luck lol
 
Many years ago, when the GS 425 and 450 came out, the biggest complaint among the magazine writers was their cold-blooded nature. This was generally attributed to lean running to meet EPA standards. One of their favorite fixes would have been raising the needle, but since they were no longer adjustable, they simply swapped the thicker plastic washer with the thin metal washer, effectively raising the needle. This allowed them to reduce the choke time considerably, improve rideability, and even gave better MPG.

Unless you have added header or pods (or both), this little mod is quick, easy and CHEAP. :)

.
 
If 1/3 throttle tests gave you whitish plug colors, then I'd probably try raising the jet needles about .045" That would be close to one position richer. I'm not sure what throttle position gave you your white plug reads. Usually, just a pipe change doesn't cause white plugs at either the main or jet needle circuits but you're not clear if the air box is totally stock/with lid. A little whiter makes sense.
I always re-install all factory washers/spacers in correct order.
One full size (5) up on the main jet might work. Full throttle plug reads will tell you.
 
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