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Shindengen Sh538-12

  • Thread starter Thread starter knotzilla
  • Start date Start date
K

knotzilla

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Hi, I am about to replace my regulator on my gs850 with a sh538-12 2.0 from a 1980 goldwing 1100. Let me know if i have it right.

3 yellows from honda regulator to stator
2 green grounds from honda regulator to frame
2 red from honda regulator to positive on battery
1 black from honda regulator to tailight circuit for sensing

Also, what does the 2.0 represent that is printed on the regulator.

Thanks Ted
 
knotzilla said:
Hi, I am about to replace my regulator on my gs850 with a sh538-12 2.0 from a 1980 goldwing 1100. Let me know if i have it right.

3 yellows from honda regulator to stator
2 green grounds from honda regulator to frame
2 red from honda regulator to positive on battery
1 black from honda regulator to tailight circuit for sensing

Also, what does the 2.0 represent that is printed on the regulator.

Thanks Ted
Click to expand...

You've got the color coding right. If I were making the installation, I would connect the green grounds directly to the negative battery post. I would also connect a 15 amp fuse in series with the red wires before connecting them to the positive battery post. As you have indicated, the black sense wire should be connected to an circuit such as the tail light which is hot only when the ignition is on.
 
Boondocks said:
... I would also connect a 15 amp fuse in series with the red wires before connecting them to the positive battery post.
Click to expand...

If he were to do this and the fuse ever popped, when would he know it popped and what would be the consequences?
 
He would slowly find out about it as the battery began to die. I don't think it would damage the stator...
 
The normal OEM wiring harness connection of the red wire(s) from the R/R goes through the main fuse (15A) in the fuse box. If the red wire(s) are connected directly to the battery, it eliminates any potential problems from connector/fuse box corrosion but the circuit will not have the protection of a fuse unless a replacement is inserted.
 
Yes, I did plan to connect the red wire through the fuse box. I should of stated this in the original question "Sorry". Thanks for your help. Ted
 
Run one red through the stock wiring to the fuse box then fuse the other one and run it to the battery or the battery side of the starter relay. If one blows you'll be backed up with redundant power.
 
Billy Ricks said:
Run one red through the stock wiring to the fuse box then fuse the other one and run it to the battery or the battery side of the starter relay. If one blows you'll be backed up with redundant power.
Click to expand...

In a setup like this, if one fuse blows they will probably both blow because the two red leads from the R/R are internally connected and behave as one wire. Anything that affects one lead will affect the other as well. If the fuse from the battery blows because of a short in the R/R or its wiring, the load will still try to go through the main fuse. Then the main fuse will blow, and the bike will shut down. The downside of having each of the two wires fused is that it effectively doubles the overload necessary to blow the fuse(s) because they are connected in parallel. If connected to the main fuse (15A) and another 15A battery fuse, it might take a 30+A overload to blow the fuses. If one lead is connected to the battery without a fuse, it effectively eliminates the main fuse from the electrical circuit, and the bike will operate with the main fuse removed.

For these reasons, I would recommend connecting both red leads to the wiring harness, or both to the battery with a 15A fuse in series, but not splitting the wires between the harness and battery. If the harness connection and fuse box are kept free of corrosion, connecting to the harness should work satisfactorily.
 
Boondocks said:
In a setup like this, if one fuse blows they will probably both blow because the two red leads from the R/R are internally connected and behave as one wire. Anything that affects one lead will affect the other as well. If the fuse from the battery blows because of a short in the R/R or its wiring, the load will still try to go through the main fuse. Then the main fuse will blow, and the bike will shut down. The downside of having each of the two wires fused is that it effectively doubles the overload necessary to blow the fuse(s) because they are connected in parallel. If connected to the main fuse (15A) and another 15A battery fuse, it might take a 30+A overload to blow the fuses. If one lead is connected to the battery without a fuse, it effectively eliminates the main fuse from the electrical circuit, and the bike will operate with the main fuse removed.

For these reasons, I would recommend connecting both red leads to the wiring harness, or both to the battery with a 15A fuse in series, but not splitting the wires between the harness and battery. If the harness connection and fuse box are kept free of corrosion, connecting to the harness should work satisfactorily.
Click to expand...
It's great having guys like you to explain things. I read where someone else had hooked up like that and it seemed like a good idea at the time.
 
Billy Ricks said:
It's great having guys like you to explain things. I read where someone else had hooked up like that and it seemed like a good idea at the time.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Billy.:)

It does seem like a good idea until a wiring diagram and circuit tracing indicate that some connection configurations can have unintended effects.
 
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