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Single point frame ground question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lunchbox88
  • Start date Start date
L

Lunchbox88

Guest
Im in the process of redoing a bunch of wiring and cleaning up the battery box area so I figured I would go ahead and change over to a single point ground. Ive done a bunch of reading here (Thanks Posplayr) but I want to make sure I understand it before I move on. I want to weld on a ground tab to my frame to use as the single point ground. Shown here in the crudely drawn schematic:

ground%2520schem.png


Does this make sense? Will I run into the current sharing problem Posplayr was referring to?

Next Im not exactly sure where the best place to weld this tab would be, do you guys have any suggestions? I have included some pictures of where I thought It could go but I would like to get your feedback before I proceed.

frame%2520ground%25201.jpg


frame%2520ground%25202.jpg



I could also just weld something to the corner of the battery box, Im just trying to avoid using the R/R mounting bolts because when its mounted under the battery box it sucks to work on.

Thanks for your consideration,
Logan
 
Im in the process of redoing a bunch of wiring and cleaning up the battery box area so I figured I would go ahead and change over to a single point ground. Ive done a bunch of reading here (Thanks Posplayr) but I want to make sure I understand it before I move on. I want to weld on a ground tab to my frame to use as the single point ground. Shown here in the crudely drawn schematic:

ground%2520schem.png


Does this make sense? Will I run into the current sharing problem Posplayr was referring to?

Next Im not exactly sure where the best place to weld this tab would be, do you guys have any suggestions? I have included some pictures of where I thought It could go but I would like to get your feedback before I proceed.

frame%2520ground%25201.jpg


frame%2520ground%25202.jpg



I could also just weld something to the corner of the battery box, Im just trying to avoid using the R/R mounting bolts because when its mounted under the battery box it sucks to work on.

Thanks for your consideration,
Logan

the only thing that matters is keeping the wire short from single point ground to the R/R (-). Current takes many paths (as shown) to return to the R/R but it can only enter on that single black wire. So bumping the size between single point and the R/R reduces any drops between them. Also use plenty of dielectric grease.
 
Gotcha, I can try to make the run as short as possible. Now the R/R that I bought from Duane has the wires epoxied in as I assume most are. Since I cannot replace the whole wire with a bigger one, would it really help to cut and solder on a bigger (Closest to the R/R I'd imagine) or just make sure to keep the same diameter and not small?
 
Gotcha, I can try to make the run as short as possible. Now the R/R that I bought from Duane has the wires epoxied in as I assume most are. Since I cannot replace the whole wire with a bigger one, would it really help to cut and solder on a bigger (Closest to the R/R I'd imagine) or just make sure to keep the same diameter and not small?

If you have to add anything to the length then just cut off what you have closer to the R/R and bump up the size to 14 gauge and you can add as much length as you want (e.g. 18")
 
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