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slight cafe mod - suggestions?

  • Thread starter Thread starter patrick
  • Start date Start date
Got my new Avon grips today for my Norman Hyde bars.. Looks like a perfect fit. Guess this means I better start tenderizing my left boot.
 
with these new bars, it feels like a total different ride! just what i was hoping for.. much more aggressive, better handling (at the expense of the long comfort tour, but thats OK).

so a new development, wondering if its a result of this mod or some larger issue. When I hit 5000 rpms in 4th and 5th, the engine revs some before 'settling' back. Now I still have last year's fuel Stabilizer in it, with maybe a 1/3 cup of Seafoam, and it needs a spring oil change. Would these variables be causing it, or do I need to do some carb cleaning?
 
patrick said:
with these new bars, it feels like a total different ride! just what i was hoping for.. much more aggressive, better handling (at the expense of the long comfort tour, but thats OK).

so a new development, wondering if its a result of this mod or some larger issue. When I hit 5000 rpms in 4th and 5th, the engine revs some before 'settling' back. Now I still have last year's fuel Stabilizer in it, with maybe a 1/3 cup of Seafoam, and it needs a spring oil change. Would these variables be causing it, or do I need to do some carb cleaning?
Click to expand...

Sounds like a slipping clutch, replace the clutch springs. After being clamped in the clutch for thirty years they are too short now and can't provide the pressure that is required. Oversized springs are not necessary, just stock Suzuki ones, they are very cheap.

In a way it probably is caused by the lower bars, because now you are having more fun and shifting harder.

Also you might have the cable adjustment a little too tight with the new bars, do you still have free play in the clutch lever?
 
patrick said:
When I hit 5000 rpms in 4th and 5th, the engine revs some before 'settling' back.

Rev's as in doesn't move?, almost like your describing a slipping clutch, if so, may need adjustment or replacement oem springs.

edit;
oops, typed with tkent at the same time, same info, might be something to think about?
Click to expand...
 
I did a quick search on slipping clutch and yes clutch slip appears to be the issue. Is this something a novice DIY'er can accomplish with patience and attention? I have much more of those than I do money.
 
Yes, clutch springs are less than $20, and the adjustment is fairly simple.
 
since I'll be in there, are there any other things I should look for or be aware of? I saw that many replace the plates too after soaking overnight in oil.. is it necessary or will just the springs do the trick? The clock just turned 60K so its probably due for a few things...
 
patrick said:
since I'll be in there, are there any other things I should look for or be aware of? I saw that many replace the plates too after soaking overnight in oil.. is it necessary or will just the springs do the trick? The clock just turned 60K so its probably due for a few things...
Click to expand...

Well, with that many miles it wouldn't hurt to look up the specs on the fiber plates, usually you never have to replace them, but with that many miles, that could equal to a lot of PO abuse... may still not have to worry about them.
What oil??, was auto oil used in the bike, if so, you may have to clean and soak those plates, sometimes they come back, sometimes they don't, may take a couple weeks and a couple oil changes to get them to function properly.
 
Clutch plates can last 100,000 mies or more of fairly hard riding with a skilled rider, or can be burned up in a few days by someone who does not know what they are doing.
Someone who doesn't know what they are doing trying to be a drag racer, it doesn't take long at all. You never know until you look inside, it's very easy.

Usually they are fine, the springs are always weak after thirty years.
 
tkent02 said:
Clutch plates can last 100,000 mies or more of fairly hard riding with a skilled rider, or can be burned up in a few days by someone who does not know what they are doing.
Someone who doesn't know what they are doing trying to be a drag racer, it doesn't take long at all. You never know until you look inside, it's very easy.

Usually they are fine, the springs are always weak after thirty years.
Click to expand...

+1

Not only does your bike have 30 years but 60k of PO's abuse

Or maybe, they will be good for another 60k, once you replace the gasket and springs, set up the clutch adjustment, if it still doesn't grab like it should, the you can go back in there and replace the clutch fibers and re-use the gasket several times as long as you don't add any gasket sealing type of glue which is not needed, just don't over tighten the cover screws, easy to strip, and you won't lose any oil doing it on the side stand, so I'd try the springs, new cable, make the necessary adjustments and go from there.

Make sure you have the right oil in there, auto oils with all there friction modifiers will cause your clutch to slip, if you haven't changed it yet, now is as good as any time to do it, new filters come with the gasket usually, and a decent 15w40 Diesel oil is cheap enough also. Both can usually be had at any local auto parts store.
 
I've always used cycle oil, felt these air cooled suckers needed something more than just auto oil. Ill get the springs and gasket and check in when I'm about to start.
 
PO meaning 'previous owner'? I was lucky to find this baby over 13 yrs ago.. the owner at the time guy bought it for his son who instead wanted to ride the rockets. (Wonder how that worked out for him?) So it didn't see much daylight. Anyway, i bought her with only 9K on the clock back in '99... It was barely ridden for 10 yrs, sat stored and cared for in a garage, and there was only 1 previous owner. Long story short, I celebrated 50,000 miles with her last summer :D
 
Quick shot of the inaugural ride with my new Norman Hyde M Bars and mirrors in place.
 
Gotcha, didn't realize you pretty much are the previous owner...lol, so probably not much to worry about. Very nice looking bike by the way, I like the color, being an L still, it looks naked in the back, it either needs a grab bar or a different seat, one a little more flat.
 
Cutting the seat down is in the near future. Meanwhile, still thinking through this slipping clutch problem. The fact that it first appeared on my very first ride with the new shorter bars leads me to believe that the errant RPMs are a result of this. The clutch cable is now 3"-4" closer to the tree.. Is there a way to adjust to allow for more play? Logic dictates this route first before opening up the case.

'I am the previous owner' .. I like that :). Used to be that two-tone maroon.. Went with a dark grey when it was time for fresh paint, it's a BMW color.. Resisted the urge to go black, it was tough! I do need to finish that back end somehow, also a smaller but proportional new taillight.
 
patrick said:
Cutting the seat down is in the near future. Meanwhile, still thinking through this slipping clutch problem. The fact that it first appeared on my very first ride with the new shorter bars leads me to believe that the errant RPMs are a result of this. The clutch cable is now 3"-4" closer to the tree.. Is there a way to adjust to allow for more play? Logic dictates this route first before opening up the case.

'I am the previous owner' .. I like that :). Used to be that two-tone maroon.. Went with a dark grey when it was time for fresh paint, it's a BMW color.. Resisted the urge to go black, it was tough! I do need to finish that back end somehow, also a smaller but proportional new taillight.
Click to expand...

I don't care if you ran a 30' clutch cable around the entire frame 3 times, that's not going to cause any slippage, unless...your cable is binding badly due to tight bends, and not returning properly and/or the repositioning of the cable may have inadvertently caused a few strands to snap that have additional stress on them due to the bends and was ready to snap or go bad in the first place. The springs and cables should be replaced regardless on these old bikes for reliability, or expect them to go bad when you least expect it. I know you don't want to throw random money at a problem, but your trying to talk yourself out of some good preventive maintenance that may very well solve your issue, inspect your cable ends, especially the one in the clutch lever, usually you'll have to remove it to inspect it properly, when it goes bad, it usually starts to fray and eventually snap clean at the lead weight, hard to see when installed. Don't know if it was coincidence that it started when you installed new bars, or the cause, inspect, inspect, inspect, cable condition and routing. I got luck very recently, thought I was having the very same issue, replaced my sorry springs, and with the first pull of the lever in my driveway, SNAP went the cable, I only just got back from a 70 mile 2up ride, could have been a lot worse.

Cable play is adjusted at the lever, clutch adjustment at the tranny case just before the clevis
 
does this seat make my butt look fat?

does this seat make my butt look fat?

yeah.. gotta trim 'er down..
 
4-into-1?

4-into-1?

has anyone had a great experience with the 4-into-1 exhaust systems? I like the symmetry of the two, but Im trying to get more performance out of my '82.
 
very sharp ride. if you are still trying to figure out a seat, I fabricated mine using a speed limit sign, some foam and vinyl. It fits into the original mounts perfectly.
 
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