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Slooooooow Tachometer GS450L '81

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
My tach is slow. It takes approx 15sec to go up to the correct RPM and the same to come down when stopping. I have taken the cable off and penetrating lubed it. It seems in working order? Could something be wrong with the innards of the tach? Anyone have a similar problem?

Thanks

8)
 
Re: Slooooooow Tachometer GS450L '81

MailMan said:
My tach is slow. It takes approx 15sec to go up to the correct RPM and the same to come down when stopping. I have taken the cable off and penetrating lubed it. It seems in working order? Could something be wrong with the innards of the tach? Anyone have a similar problem?

Thanks

8)

The tach has a shaft that runs through the needle to a lump of metal that is spun by magnetic field from another spinning magnet. You can try lubing the small support that the shaft runs through and see if that helps! You will have to put the tach mechanism out to get to it (don't pull the needle or the shaft off, just get some light oil around where the shaft is supported).

Hap
 
Tach and Speedo Slooooooow

Tach and Speedo Slooooooow

Both my tach and speedo are slooooow, do you have any suggestions for fixing the speedo? I've tried to lube the cable also to no avail...


_______________________________________

1979 GS750L :D
 
Had problems with mine too. Took them loose and turned them upside down and filled the cable connector with oil and let it soak in did it 3-4 times. I used 15w fork oil because it was handy.
 
I had that problem on my tach, oiling the cable connection did not help. The magnetic disc was rotating freely, it was the needle itself that was sluggish, and your symptoms sound the same. There's no real way to get to the needle pivot without taking the tach apart. Unfortunately for mine ('79) it's in a one piece housing. I had read some suggestions here that you could either saw the face off or make cuts with a dremel in the black metal ring that holds the face on. I made two cuts with my dremel and decided it would be too messy and impractical, so I took my 'Tiny Tim' hacksaw and sawed the face off right next to that balck ring. From there it's easy to take the tach out and work the needle by hand and lube it. I used 3 in one oil because I thought it would both dilute the congeled stuff and stick around afterwards. The needle was really only sticky from 0-6 or 7 grand. Also you will get little orange plastic shavings scattered in there from sawing, and they will sort of stick to the light greased parts in there. I picked them out with a probe. First I tried blowing them out with some brake parts cleaner but that was a mistake - it accomplished nothing other than running along the bottom of the guage face below the gas guage and immediately removing the paint. A little Testor's 'rubber' (and aircraft color) gave a rough match. I didn't have any regular brown, that might be better. After all that I cleaned off the platic housings and super glued them together, being careful to line it up the way it came off. You can also mark it before you cut in the first place. I forget what glue I have, but it's not the store shelf stuff, that's not the best. The tach works fine now, we'll see how long the 3 in one lasts, but I think it will be fine. I was worried a little about vibration popping the superglue seal, but it's really on there, and the guages seem well insulated form vibration. You can make a little safety wire if it worries you :)

If you want to get into your speedometer it will be harder, you have to cut around the trip meter knob to really get in there. I just resorted to working the needle by hand, because it worked fine other than seeming to get stuck at about 65 mph. That seems ok now too, though I'm too a-scared to really go faster than that without getting on the highway, and I'm too a-scared to do that too :roll: Good luck if you decide to operate.

Oh yeah of course I got a nice white superglue fingerprint on the inside of the face, try not to do that!
 
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