Sloppy Shift Lever Fix?

[Anonymous]

So the shift lever is very sloppy on the shaft it turns on. The thing must have better than 1/2" free play at the end of the lever where your foot pushes. When I pulled the lever last night, the pivot hole is ovalled out and seriously worn. To me that is unacceptable and I want to fix it. I see my choices as:

1) Drill out the lever and fit a bushing, either teflon, UHMW polyethylene or brass. This is the traditional fix and probably the best choice. It is also a PITA, takes time I don't really have and I would have to go out and buy an adjustable reamer to get a decent fit on both the bushing into the lever and the bushing onto the pivot pin. Not really my first choice at the moment.

2) Fill the hole with JB Weld and then drill/ream unil it fits snug onto the pivot pin again. This is my first choice as it is fast and pretty simple and I see no issues with the JB weld, since the lever is cheapo cast aluminum anyway.

What do you guys think of option #2 versus #1?


Mark

 

[snowbeard]

don't know if yours is at all like mine, but I have grooves around mine and a knurled or grooved shaft. also the bolt that tightens the split clamp at the end goes thru a slot around the end of the shaft to ensure that it never slips off?

maybe you could make a JB weld "bushing" inside the lever clamp, then fit it onto the shaft and get the grooves impressed on it, then remove and let cure? at least as a fix until you get a new one!!

 

[DMPLATT]

What do you guys think of option #2 versus #1?

Option C.

https://www.partsnmore.com/item_index.php?part_unique=1192

8) 8)

I've ordered from them before and they were great.

Since the shift lever is used constantly, I would just replace it.

 

[earlfor]

Take a screwdriver blade and pry the slot slightly apart where the pinch bolt goes through. Get an aluminum pop can and cut a 1/2" wide strip long enough to fo around the shaft from aprox 1 oclock to 11 oclock. (cheap shim) Fit the shim into the lever and push lever with shim over the shaft.
Tighten piunch bolt.

Earl

 

[duaneage]

Take a screwdriver blade and pry the slot slightly apart where the pinch bolt goes through. Get an aluminum pop can and cut a 1/2" wide strip long enough to fo around the shaft from aprox 1 oclock to 11 oclock. (cheap shim) Fit the shim into the lever and push lever with shim over the shaft.
Tighten piunch bolt.

Earl

You forgot to add the chewing gum and the duct tape

 

[Anonymous]

Take a screwdriver blade and pry the slot slightly apart where the pinch bolt goes through.

OK, apparently I wasn't descriptive enough. My mistake. On my 82 1100E, the shift lever pivots on the FRAME and uses a push rod linkage to move the shift SHAFT that goes into the engine. The pivot I am talking about is the one on the frame that the LEVER pivots on. The splined fitting on the shaft is fine. It is the lever pivot that is all worn out...

So, back to my original question about the JB Weld buildup. Anybody have a reason NOT to try it? The thing is already worn badly, the JB weld will not make that any worse and I can always drill it out and bush the lever if the JB weld doesn't work.

Mark

 

[earlfor]

Hey, it works. Besides, replacement "shims" are readily available and affordable.

Earl

Earl

You forgot to add the chewing gum and the duct tape [/quote]

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

JB would only be temporary fix. Have it welded & redrill

 

[duaneage]

Take a screwdriver blade and pry the slot slightly apart where the pinch bolt goes through.

OK, apparently I wasn't descriptive enough. My mistake. On my 82 1100E, the shift lever pivots on the FRAME and uses a push rod linkage to move the shift SHAFT that goes into the engine. The pivot I am talking about is the one on the frame that the LEVER pivots on. The splined fitting on the shaft is fine. It is the lever pivot that is all worn out...

So, back to my original question about the JB Weld buildup. Anybody have a reason NOT to try it? The thing is already worn badly, the JB weld will not make that any worse and I can always drill it out and bush the lever if the JB weld doesn't work.

Mark

In my experience jb weld is strong, resists heat well, but does not hold up under abrasion. I think it would work but not last. You might be better off making a sleave from a piece of pipe that can take up the clearance. Take your pivot to a hardware shop and find a piece of pipe that fits snug over the shaft you have. Find a piece with thin walls, stainless is best but galvanized will work. The hole that the shaft mounts to can be enlarged so that the pipe is a snug fit on the bike. Insert pipe into hole, grease theshaft, ride the bike.

I think that would be a proper repair for this, not epoxy.

FWIW

 

[earlfor]

I would use Duane's approach and go directly to bushing. JB Weld, I dont believe, would last very long before the linkage was sloppy again. Brass pipe would be a good choice of material or any steel yard/fabrication shop will have bushing stock.

Earl

 

[Anonymous]

I would use Duane's approach and go directly to bushing. JB Weld, I dont believe, would last very long before the linkage was sloppy again. Brass pipe would be a good choice of material or any steel yard/fabrication shop will have bushing stock.

There's the answer I was looking for. Teflon or UHMW are probably the best bushing choices, followed closely by brass, so I will see what I can scrounge up here and get to work.

Thanks for the replies.


Mark

 

[earlfor]

UHMW is probably the best choice if you do not have a home machine shop.
Its self lubricating, wears reasonably well, and is easy to work.

Earl

There's the answer I was looking for. Teflon or UHMW are probably the best bushing choices, followed closely by brass, so I will see what I can scrounge up here and get to work.

Thanks for the replies.


Mark