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Slotted Rotor Identification

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
they look like 80 or 81 850 1100 front rotors i have a set on my 78 1000
that work great i just cut down my pads that are over the contact area
with a dremel had em on it for years and they have never failed me yet
GS1000.jpg
 
Nice looking bike. I figured as much from looking at the pictures of the bikes of the month. One search lead me to matching the rotor to newer calipers, but I wasn't sure how to find out if they would fit the forks. How did you figure out how to mark the pads to trim them back? I've already completely rebuilt the calipers and master cylinder, replaced the lines with stainless steel braided lines and switched to Dot 5. I take it that the loss of that surface area has not reduced the breaking power with the breaks running cooler.
 
OldVet66 said:
Nice looking bike. I figured as much from looking at the pictures of the bikes of the month. One search lead me to matching the rotor to newer calipers, but I wasn't sure how to find out if they would fit the forks. How did you figure out how to mark the pads to trim them back? I've already completely rebuilt the calipers and master cylinder, replaced the lines with stainless steel braided lines and switched to Dot 5. I take it that the loss of that surface area has not reduced the breaking power with the breaks running cooler.
Click to expand...
thank you for the nice comments on my bike i really like it as well
i just looked and then made a cut on an old set of pads and tested the fit
then when i had it right i just placed the cut pad on the uncut 1 and marked the sides then used a straight edge and connected the 2 marks with a marker and cut on the line i'll try and get you a pic of my old pad so you can see what i did
be sure to place the pads on top of one another in the same orientation (backing plate down and pad material up and the uncut pad on top in the same way backing plate down and pad material up then make your marks and cut)

fitment is not an issue as the 850's and 1100's 80 81 used the same wheels and triple trees and same fork diameter as the 78 1000's
only difference was the calipers and perhaps the mounting point but i'm not sure about the mounting point they might be the same just a different caliper that matches the rotors everything else lines up just fine
at least it did for me
hope that helps you out some and as i said i will try and get a pic of the cut pad posted for you in the next day or 2 when i can get the old ones located

as for the loss of surface area i also have steel braided lines and i have never needed more than a 2 finger pull on the lever to get it stopped it will lock the front up if i pull hard on it the increased feel in the lever is fantastic (just be careful the first few times your out on it with the new lines they perform much better than the stock so go easy on the amount you pull on the lever because you'll be surprised at how little pressure you'll need to stop it )
 
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Thanks, I'll wait until I see your pictures, or find a newer set of calipers to rebuild that match the rotors and hopefully bolt on to What I have. I went ahead and put the stock rotors back on. When I pushed the pistons back in to refit the rotors, break fluid overflowed the reservoir and splashed all over my new tank. Love Dot 5 on a virgin rebuild. No more paint remover to watch out for. You wouldn't happen have a link for where you got that set of pipes would you? My old Vance & Hines 4 into 1 is going to have to be header wrapped for this season at least. Eventually they need replacement.
 
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ok here you go
you don't need different calipers the stock 78's will work fine as do the pads when cut so as promised here are the pics
disk.jpg


pad1.jpg


pad2.jpg


pad3.jpg


as for the pipe i bought that about 14 years ago it's from hindle i just added a modern can to it this year you might be able to find something on eBay i'm just keeping good care of this pipe and i always keep my eyes open for another header that will work as i have this tail section and a yosh so i;m good for now and will be set when i find another header
 
Are you just cutting the one pad, or both? It seems the floating pad would have the most impact on the dished out side.
 
OldVet66 said:
Are you just cutting the one pad, or both? It seems the floating pad would have the most impact on the dished out side.
Click to expand...
no i'm cutting both pads i showed an uncut 1 so you could see the difference

you have to cut both so that they don't hang over the contact area because if you don't the unworn area will bind on the disk near to the inside edge of the pad surface and this would be bad
 
Got you, one cut with the guide in the vertical position as you showed and one cut with the guide in the horizontal and the cut on the horizontal. All the bolts need shortening just a little over 1/4".
 
OldVet66 said:
Got you, one cut with the guide in the vertical position as you showed and one cut with the guide in the horizontal and the cut on the horizontal. All the bolts need shortening just a little over 1/4".
Click to expand...
are you talking about the bolts that hold the disk on
if so i didn't have to shorten mine but that is fine it's an easy job with a dremel
 
Yes, they bottom out, the aluminum riveted center of the stock break rotors are about 1/4" thicker than the later, one piece Stainless Steel rotors, and washers would raise the heads above the keepers.
 
OldVet66 said:
Yes, they bottom out, the aluminum riveted center of the stock break rotors are about 1/4" thicker than the later, one piece Stainless Steel rotors, and washers would raise the heads above the keepers.
Click to expand...
that works too i'd put em on if i were you
 
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