So I almost have my liscence (finally), need to get the bike road ready!

[donimo]

Hi all, I have been mostly lurking, I posted a bunch last year when I first got the bike.

I am signed up to take the MSC course (I rode a scoot for 3+ years but want to do it right) in April, but I want to make sure the bike is as ready as it can be, but I am a total noob.

I did the carb refresh as per this site (had to buy all the parts from suzuki though, OUCH), found out that the issue may have been the air filter and not the carbs, but ah well.

I replaced the rear shoes, fronts look fine.

Shocks seem mushy, but I have nothing to compare it to except my scooter, which being so much smaller is probably set up stiffer on purpose?

I dont have a ton of money, but I dont want to skimp where I shouldn't. How do you know the springs/shocks are toast, any "use the shocks off this bike cause its cheaper" tips or no...?

I will be doing the valve clearances, but I need to track down a head gasket first, 8v 400cc is less common than the 450 up here even though they sold them side by side. urgh.

just trying to do it right, don't want to be all "squid"y

 

[BassCliff]

HI Mr. domino,

Yes, go easy on the "squid'y" part.

Have you tried turning up the preload on your rear springs? There should be 4 or 5 settings.

Sorry, I can't help you find parts, other than to refer you to the list of vendors in the mega-welcome. There is some suspension parts information there too. The Emgo/MDI shocks are very reasonably priced but stiffly sprung.

I would think that just about any shock the same length and using the same connectors (eye-to-eye or eye-to-clevis) would work on your bike. But unless you're buying a name brand (rebuildable), do you really want someone else's worn out ebay shock?

Lots of good suspension information on this site:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/index.html

Chassis
Suspension
Check Rear Suspension?
Align Rear Suspension?
Adjust Rear Suspension?
Align Front Suspension?
Adjust Front Suspension?
Increase Fork Spring Rate?
Lowering Your Bike?
Improve Fork Damping?
Drive Chains?
Tires
Tire Accessories?
Wheels?

Nice work on your carbs. Have fun in your safety course, pay attention and learn a lot. It will save your life. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[donimo]

I think the rears are turned up all the way already, at least thats how it looks to me, it seems it is on the setting that compresses the spring the most, to me that would make it stiffer, right?

I am pretty sure my bike is the same as a 1983 GS450E except for some differences in the carbs/intake and the 4v head. Body wise it seems to be the same though.

I have found a few places in the UK for gasket kits, the shipping is redonkulous though. One guy in the states has a "gs450 and gsx 400" kit, but that is fishy to me as they would have at least 3 gaskets and a few o-rings completely different, he refuses to respond. Bummer as its only 30 bux...

In your opinion is the bike "unsafe" to ride in town (under 80km/hr) until I can sort out what needs fixing? It seems fine, just mushy compared to a 180lb scooter suspension. But I thought the WR250x I sat on was mushy too, so...

newbs eh?

 

[donimo]

Also I am 250lbs, so that may have something to do with it, ha

 

[donimo]

thanks for the link, I will check some of ths stuff this weekend hopefully!

 

[Matchless]

You may want to look at this, they have a gasket set for a GS400, albeit an older model. https://www.partsnmore.com/motorcycle-gasket_sets.php?make=suzuki&category=gasket_set

 

[donimo]

no go, my bike is a 4 valve per cyl version, totally different head and cover gasket, and the cover gasket is what I need most right now...

thanks though!

 

[Big T]

You should just make your own valve cover gasket.

You should be able to find a large enough sheet of gasket paper at your local auto parts store.

Just pull the valve cover, clean it off and lay it on the paper. Have the whole thing on a cutting board. Trace around it with a pencil, then use an Exacto knife to cut out the exterior with the valve cover still in place.


Flip it over and use some tape to hold the paper in place on the valve cover. Trace around the interior dimension of the valve cover surface, including bolts holes, etc.

Cut out the major areas and then carefully trim to where it needs to be.

Sorta simple, cheap and you can get it done in an evening. Buy more than one sheet of paper in case you make a fatal error.

It gives you something to do on those long.cold nights up there. There's a posting about how to do it right, search for it.

As for shocks, you can be sure your's are shot based upon their age.

 

[donimo]

boo yah, full top end gasket kit, made in Japan so it should be at least "ok".

nine pounds fifty please my good sir. or $17.50 canuckle bucks.

also comes with a set of "took me 2 months and $30" intake o-rings and some exhast gaskets so I can paint my headers! Im happy for $17 (not so much about me already buying the o-rings)

 

[donimo]

so, couple more questions (of course):

1) I found a guy on ebay that sells wix filters along with the o-ring (more of a cookie with nibbles out of it-ring) for about $10 a filter/ring shipped, is that good deal? I remember people talking about wix filters being good in my mustang days...?

2) I noticed that my valve cover "seam" is all black silcone goop, so I guess whoever was in there last decided not to use a gasket? any tips/pointers that I should know before I attemt to get that pig off there?

3) is there a reason to replace those half moon seals? I have no leaks up there, and when I did my carbs the o-rings in there were pristine, seems all the rubber on this bike is perfect, not sure why as its got 30k on it

4) I read on another post that there i an easy way to synch the carbs on a twin, but I have to admit the procedure confuses me, anybody have a link to this? the one where you pull a plug and adjust?

 

[BassCliff]

so, couple more questions (of course):

1) I found a guy on ebay that sells wix filters along with the o-ring (more of a cookie with nibbles out of it-ring) for about $10 a filter/ring shipped, is that good deal? I remember people talking about wix filters being good in my mustang days...?

I order five or 10 filters at a time from Z1:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1646

They're only $3.64 ea. You get 10% off when ordering 10. I know you're in Canada, but Z1 may be able to help you.

2) I noticed that my valve cover "seam" is all black silcone goop, so I guess whoever was in there last decided not to use a gasket? any tips/pointers that I should know before I attemt to get that pig off there?

Just the obvious tips. Don't get any in the motor. Take your time. Don't damage the surfaces.

3) is there a reason to replace those half moon seals? I have no leaks up there, and when I did my carbs the o-rings in there were pristine, seems all the rubber on this bike is perfect, not sure why as its got 30k on it

I replaced mine the first time I did a valve check a couple of years ago. I've done three since then. They're not leaking so I leave them alone. Maybe next year I'll get proactive and replace them anyway. I'd really like to pick up a set of aluminum half moons.

4) I read on another post that there i an easy way to synch the carbs on a twin, but I have to admit the procedure confuses me, anybody have a link to this? the one where you pull a plug and adjust?

I've never tried it, but I've read where it's cheap and easy to make your own manometer. Here's just one thread on this forum dealing with the contraption:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135549

I'm sure you can google "homemade manometer" and find tons of stuff.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[donimo]

hmm, that yardstick method looks neat, might try it just to see.

I already have one vacuum guage from my car days, i could buy another, but I still have ther problem of the stupit "no barb" issue, why not include them on a bike and just stick a cover on them like cars do?

I noticed the z1 ones but the issue is shipping, its like 30 bux US to ship up a few filters, plus they use UPS which charges a $35 MIN brokerage (read gouging) fee, so all of a sudden my $3 filter is $70

the ebay guy has free shipping is all.

I will call the dealer, its 3 hours away from me is all...

any idea if that filter is used on any honda or yammie bikes? I have a dealer in my town for those...

they can get in 3rd party stuff too, any brands to stay away from?

 

[jbs80106]

These are the obvious ones I'd suggest...

These are the obvious ones I'd suggest...

- TIRES: Haven't seen it mentioned the condition of your tires. If you don't know how old they are or if the appear to be cracked replace them. You've done the brakes so you can stop, now just make sure you don't blow out a tire.

- ELECTRICAL: I would go through the stator papers and make sure your charging system is good. Another problem you'll not want to worry about as you venture out.

- LIGHTS: Check that all your indicators are working properly.

- LUBE: I'd lube all the cables and speedo/tacho just for good measure...

- THE REST: To me is necessary preventative to reduce chances of breaking down along the way. If it runs, tires and brakes are good, you should be able to start putting around the neighborhood and then further afield as your confidence (in yourself and in your bike) grows. Gaskets may leak, etc. but for me, if she's running, she's ride-able....assume tires/breaks/lights/oil are good to go.

I don't have a comparison for shocks. Mine are most likely original on my 650 as I've not done anything with them. Oh, and oil your air filter. Works better that way!

 

[donimo]

new air filter on the way, tires are brand spankin new CS hi-max (thanks to this site for those!)

battery is toast, I will check out the statr papers after I get the rest sorted out, almost enough to make me buy a newer bike, haaa

any tips on lubing cables, like what works best, what not to use?