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soldering aluminum to copper???

  • Thread starter Thread starter crc1214
  • Start date Start date
None of my three bikes have those connections soldered. For R/R and stator connections, I use insulated, blade, crimp connectors with grease and heat shrink.

Earl


smithbm said:
I normally use crimp connections as well, however most of the threads I have read through insist that R/Rs be soldered and shrink wrapped. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
 
Actually, Earl, I don't really disagree with you.:) Since so many people here are making solder connections with better results than they had before, I thought that it was a subject worthy of discussion. As I mentioned, it gets controversial and there are adherents on both sides.

One viewpoint that I thought was well expressed was from Bob Nuckolls of The AeroElectric Connection:

Bob Nuckolls said:
I've made the statement numerous times and will repeat it here. There is no significant difference in a properly soldered versus properly crimped joint on a wire. Crimping takes specialized tools and less skill; soldering uses very in-expensive tools and takes some practice. I cannot cite any reason for saying that one technique is better than the other with respect to service life in your airplane.
Click to expand...

This quote is contained in the downloadable PDF file Crimp_vs_Solder_and_other_nagging_questions

I like to get both sides of the story out when there are good points on both sides. Now hold on, Earl, are you ready for this? As you know, my bike still has the original stator and R/R working just fine after 26 years. My main wiring, like yours has no solder connections. I have replaced the burnt-out original connectors with crimp butt-splice connectors with electrical non-corrosive grease coating the exposed wire and connectors. Very similar to your setup, except mine are permanently connected.:)

When I was hooking up the Digital Voltmeter, I inserted a plug and socket in the wiring to be able to remove it if desired. The voltmeter wires were so thin that I soldered them to the plug and socket to keep the connection diameter of the 5 wire group at a reasonable size. This is not exactly a critical part, but it is taped up firmly and I don't expect any flex problems with it.
 
OMG!!!!!!! :-) :-) :-)

Earl

Boondocks said:
I like to get both sides of the story out when there are good points on both sides. Now hold on, Earl, are you ready for this? As you know, my bike still has the original stator and R/R working just fine after 26 years. My main wiring, like yours has no solder connections. I have replaced the burnt-out original connectors with crimp butt-splice connectors with electrical non-corrosive grease coating the exposed wire and connectors. Very similar to your setup, except mine are permanently connected.:)
Click to expand...
 
If you really want flex, and also want it to be fully sealed, and also do not have the required type of grease available, you can still use a crimp connector (with or without an overlay of shrink tubing) and cover the ends or any other opening with liquid electrical tape.

You can buy it at any place that sells mobile home components, and also Walmart...which is where I got it. It comes in several colours if you want identification, or just for decoration.

SHAKE the can well before using it.
 
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