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Someone help me out please...

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheCafeKid
  • Start date Start date
T

TheCafeKid

Guest
I just cleaned and put my carbs back together, mounted on the bike and started her up. I did bench synch them. The problem i am having is that my idle adjust screw is all the way out...as in no effect on the throttle, and the bike is SUPER slow to come down from throttle when you blip it. It revs really high and hangs there for a good while and then comes down very slowly. I know they need synched with a manometer after cleaning, but what adjustment is needed to correct this? Is it the fuel screws or air screws (fuel are one turn out at the moment and air are 1 and 3/4s out)

Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks!

TCK
 
You have a lean condition causing your hanging idle. Could be caused by a vacuum leak (from carb boots and/or O-ring) or carb mixture.

I assume you have VM carbs based on the reference to a fuel screw. I'd try turning in the air screws to start, they are easier to reach. If the bike doesn't start running better at 1 turn, try opening the fuel screw a little - 1/2 or so. Of course, you need to vacuum sync as well. May as well do it now.
 
Nessism said:
You have a lean condition causing your hanging idle. Could be caused by a vacuum leak (from carb boots and/or O-ring) or carb mixture.

I assume you have VM carbs based on the reference to a fuel screw. I'd try turning in the air screws to start, they are easier to reach. If the bike doesn't start running better at 1 turn, try opening the fuel screw a little - 1/2 or so. Of course, you need to vacuum sync as well. May as well do it now.
Click to expand...


Yeah VMs...tried the air screw..no help..tried turning out the fuel screw..no help...it acts as if its running on idle..even tho its not..Im getting thoroughly frustrated...Its running smoother..just wayyyy too fast...im now kinda wishing id never cleaned the damn carbs..I did however move the needle down to the forth notch from the top...as per Keiths suggestion...Im completely confused now and completely frustrated..GRRRR:evil:
 
readjust the float heights to give it more fuel.

the fuel level should be at or about the bowl mating surface . maybe just below by 1-2 mm.

then the fuel mixture screw should effect your idle after some tinkering.
good luck
 
Float levels were set when i cleaned and rebuilt them...as per spec..so i dont think its that. But seriously thanks for your input though:-D Im wondering if i have an intake leak..i dont believe i did before, and i dont know how suddenly it would, or suddenly be so bad..I dunno guys, im just gettin really pi$$ed off. Granted this is the first four that i have ever attempted to seriously tune and work on all alone, and only the 3rd four ive owned (the other two being hondas that i really did very little with) but ive never had this much trouble getting a bike to run right. ](*,)
 
Is the speedo cable hanging up somewhere?
Did you do a valve adjustment?
New o-ring on the intake boot? Spray carb cleaner around the boots and see if the idle dives.
 
regardless it needs more gas.

time to take a break don't get frustrated. a clear head will help identify the root of the problem.

some times the pilot circut needs to be cleaned twice or three times. those are very tiny passages in there.

I blow carb cleaner through the air bleed, pilot jet, bypass holes, and mixture screw orifices both directions over and over and over again until a visual confirms there is flow through every passage in the pilot/bypass circut of the carb bodies.

air leaks around the carb to head insulators are easy to find with spray cleaner.
 
trippivot said:
regardless it needs more gas.

time to take a break don't get frustrated. a clear head will help identify the root of the problem.

some times the pilot circut needs to be cleaned twice or three times. those are very tiny passages in there.

I blow carb cleaner through the air bleed, pilot jet, bypass holes, and mixture screw orifices both directions over and over and over again until a visual confirms there is flow through every passage in the pilot/bypass circut of the carb bodies.

air leaks around the carb to head insulators are easy to find with spray cleaner.
Click to expand...

Yeah the pilot circuit was flowing freely (so freely i caught carb cleaner in the eye...DOH!) I made absolutely sure that they were doing so because i had that problem on the last set of carbs i messed with (thought i cleaned them well, but hadnt cleaned the pilots well enough) I am begining to think its the boots...thats the next guess...
 
TheCafeKid said:
Yeah the pilot circuit was flowing freely (so freely i caught carb cleaner in the eye...DOH!) I made absolutely sure that they were doing so because i had that problem on the last set of carbs i messed with (thought i cleaned them well, but hadnt cleaned the pilots well enough) I am begining to think its the boots...thats the next guess...
Click to expand...

Please tell me you changed the intake boot O-rings.[-o< Or...maybe I should say...hope you didn't change them since they are sure to leak thus this is the cause of the problem.
 
Nessism said:
Please tell me you changed the intake boot O-rings.[-o< Or...maybe I should say...hope you didn't change them since they are sure to leak thus this is the cause of the problem.
Click to expand...
Better question is DO I HAVE intake boot rings...my carbs dont bolt up to the head like most of your GS's They have a manifold that comes off the head and has rubber insulators on the end of them...are there orings under those?? or could those themselves be the problem??
 
The o-rings are under that little bolt-on manifold that the black boots attach too. When you take off the carbs you then take off the black boots and then you'll see the little intake things. they should be attached too the head with two bolts. Well you take those off and viola thats were the orings are. Also I'd check the boots themselves. They have o-rings also. They could potential leak
 
Gotcha thanks Riot...I'll investigate tomorrow. I hope thats the problem..i cant see it being anything else...it ran halfway decent before..now its just all over the place...*sigh* shoulda never messed with it. :cry:
 
Take a look

Take a look

Ironriot said:
The o-rings are under that little bolt-on manifold that the black boots attach too. When you take off the carbs you then take off the black boots and then you'll see the little intake things. they should be attached too the head with two bolts. Well you take those off and viola thats were the orings are. Also I'd check the boots themselves. They have o-rings also. They could potential leak
Click to expand...

intakeb.jpg

From Mr robert barr's http://www.cycleorings.com

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Sure sounds to me like you have the bench synch messed up.
If the idle adjuster tip is no longer in contact with the throttle cable pulley and it still idles high, the slides are synched poorly.
Re-bench synch. I have a post that details the bench synch if you need it. I'm sorry to not have the link handy but I believe it is post #36 at Hoomgars (a member here) thread in the tech section, "GS1K bad fuel economy re-jet Attn Keith Krause", or similar to that. If you follow that, you're good. Just a note: If your carbs have a master carb (always #3), then simply set the other slides to match the master #3 slide. You can tell because there's no slide adjusting screw for a master carb.
You will still need to synch with a vacuum tool. Since you've had this problem with bench synching, I can see where the final vacuum synch may result in further problems. If you adjust the slides wrong, you can get them to the point where the bike is idling high even though there's no longer any contact between idle adjuster and pulley, just as I think you've done already. I have other posts explaining how to avoid this condition if you search.
If for any reason you give up, you can send the carbs to me. I think you can do it if you read and take your time.
But if you can't bench synch them, I want you to know you have the option of sending them to me. As long as they're mechanically operating right, I'll give them a good bench synch and adjust all jetting related screws to what I call "ballpark" settings...settings that should allow for a good start up and vacuum synch.
The shipping will cost you but my work won't cost a penny.
Just so you know you have the option. Don't get frustrated!:)
 
Keith i looked all over for that post and didnt find it...and yeah im so frustrated im seriously considering taking you up on your offer...I'll even pay for the tune. I really want to be able to do it myself but I am without garage to work in, and limited on tooling, time and patience at the moment. Ive been working a bazillion hours a week lately, and the few nice days i have to work on anything im at work...love ohio weather. If i do decide to ship them out to you what do you need from me as far as parts...obviously the carbs themselves and??

Thanks again

josh
 
TheCafeKid said:
Keith i looked all over for that post and didnt find it...and yeah im so frustrated im seriously considering taking you up on your offer...I'll even pay for the tune. I really want to be able to do it myself but I am without garage to work in, and limited on tooling, time and patience at the moment. Ive been working a bazillion hours a week lately, and the few nice days i have to work on anything im at work...love ohio weather. If i do decide to ship them out to you what do you need from me as far as parts...obviously the carbs themselves and??

Thanks again

josh
Click to expand...

Here is the shortcut.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=80632&highlight=GS1K

Cheers Don
 
Thanks Don...you're a peach! I looked in every post i could find, obviously didnt go that far back. Ok so Keith im gonna give it a go on my own here...and failing that I would still love to take you up on your offer. Like i said i really want/need to learn to do this on my own, sometimes is so damn frustrating and im scared to death im gonna fuxor something up so bad its gonna kill my motor. Yesterday i did a little tinkering and kicked it over and it instantly reved so hard it spun the baffle plate in my pipe out of possition (it was loosened i little i did find out after that..lol) I freaked out needles to say cos im guessing but it had to be burried in tach. Obviously i immediately shut it down and adjusted what i had messed with back to where it was. Im gonna look at the boots and orings, and ill prolly just replace them whether i think they need them or not just to eliminate any possible screwups there. The one promissing thing is even though its idling high, its a hell of a lot smoother than before. Tho i do still smell gas in the exaust. Im starting to think that im just not used to smelling a non-EPA screwed with motor. Sorry to be frustrated and/or frustrating..carbs and tuning them has always been something i either left to my fellows who were better at it, or had someone help me with. I also have a question about Hooms steel wool idea...i love my VH and i love the sound but would like to quiet it just a touch...unfortunately the PO left about 4 inches of the i duno what you call it but the baffle pipe inside the pipe...is that enough to wrap some wool on?? or would it do nothing?? I know that would adjust my jetting a little too...so many thoughts..

Thanks again all of you...i really mean it.

TCK
 
I think you can do it too. If you're patient and follow my advice at that link, you'll have the bench synch done correctly and the bike will start up right and you can continue with your tuning.
As for the final vacuum synch, that's not hard either but can take some time to learn. Biggest worry is over-heating if you take too long.
Yes, if worse comes to worse, I'll bench synch them for you and initially set the screws to something sensible for starters. From what I've read the carbs are already clean and rebuilt/floats adjusted. The jet needles are at position 4, which seems like a good setting for your pipe and pods. So I wouldn't need any special tools or parts for what needs to be done. I'm guessing round trip shipping would cost about $30 to $40. You'll also still need to synch with the vacuum tool when you get them back.
If road testing shows the jet needles need further adjustment, the carbs will have to re-bench/vacuum synched again. Obviously, doing this yourself is best because it could take a couple tries.
I just don't want you giving up or getting too frustrated over the whole thing. If that happens, I'll be happy to set them up for you as long as they're mechanically in good condition (no stripped hardware) and I can make the adjustments necessary. But you will still need to do that synch and fine tune the jetting.
I'll try to help any way I can if you ask questions.
 
Oh...I have no comment on using steel wool for packing the silencer. Seems like it would turn to rust and blow out very soon but I really have no experience with steel wool.
I'd buy the packing that's sold for the pipe. I think it's about $18. It will quiet it down some if the packing is basically gone. Still, the V&H megaphone starts to howl above 5K.
 
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