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(SORRY!) Carb Dip Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mad GS 750 E
  • Start date Start date
M

Mad GS 750 E

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Yes i used the search went thru 6+ pages and didn't get any definitive answers.What is a good dip with can at good price ,alot guys were saying new stuff sucks? This is the first time doing bike carbs,im doing it by the info on the sight so i guess its ok to leave the throttle valves in?The seals wont get hurt in the dip? I have 3 carbs totally apart (left 1 together for reference)only stipped one screw so far.I've got the o-rings coming. I bought new bowl gaskets (not cheap must be made by NASA) so i just need the dip for now.How long do you leave the carbs in? My carb are of my newest project 83 GS 1100 E (BS34SS) thanks for any info.
 
I think the consensus is the Berryman Chem-dip parts and carb cleaner in the 1 gal bucket with basket. I got mine at the local Autozone and I've seen it at the local O'Rileys. $19...
 
Make sure you get EVERYTHING except the throttle blades out of the carb bodies, then dip them for 24 hours.

Among the things you want to make sure you get out are the idle mixture adjustment screws. If your carbs have never been touched before, they will still be hidden under metal caps, and you may not realize they are there. Remove the caps, remove the screws, along with the spring, metal washer and o-ring that live in that hole.

I tend to put the carb body, float bowl and all the jets for that one carb in the dip at the same time. The next day, take those parts out, rinse them in warm water, put the next set of the parts in the dip. After you get the next set of parts in the dip, go back, clean all the holes in all the jets with a strand of copper wire, then spray them with carb cleaner spray and then hit them with some compressed air to make sure everything is clear.

Don't forget the passage in the float bowl, but be sure you are still wearing your safety glasses when you do that. (You were already wearing them, weren't you?) When you spray into that little hole in the bottom, it will come right back at you out that hole in the edge.

.
 
Berryman's is the stuff. Also, make sure you're wearing rubber/nitrile gloves (doubling up on the gloves ain't a bad idea) and long sleeves when placing/removing parts into your Chemdip can - that stuff is fairly caustic so you don't want it on your skin.
 
I dip each carb over night or until they are clean. No reason to leave them in the sauce for longer than necessary. 24 hours may be necessary if the bike has been long neglected but overnight typically does it in my experience (particularly if the dip is fresh).
 
80GS1000 said:
Berryman's is the stuff. Also, make sure you're wearing rubber/nitrile gloves (doubling up on the gloves ain't a bad idea) and long sleeves when placing/removing parts into your Chemdip can - that stuff is fairly caustic so you don't want it on your skin.
Click to expand...
Sh!t, this CA hippy stuff tastes like ginger ale. :mad:
 
I don't think the new dip is as good "as in the old days." I rememebr that stuff being overwhelming in smell and cleaning ability. I bought a new can a couple months ago and it just aint the same. It did a good job and the bike runs great, just not what it used to be...
 
Dunno if you can get it anymore, but I've got a nice big jug of Kleen-flo carb dip. $90, but it's wicked awesome! It'll stink up anything it touches for a week at least. I still have tools that smell like it, and I haven't dipped anything in almost a year. It eats through nitrile gloves eventually, melts latex pretty much instantly. It's not cheap, and I don't even know if it's available anymore. I got it at the local Napa parts store. Probably not all that environmentally friendly, comes in a metal jug, which is in a very thick plastic bag. I guess to prevent spills.

Berryman's seems to be the dip of choice for most guys though. I've never seen it for sale anywhere up in Canuckistan.
 
Gunk carb dip seems about as good as Berryman's. It's a bit clearer as well, so it's easier to find itty-bitty parts you may drop in it. I also like Gunk's basket a bit better.

I missed the memo about cleaning up the outside of the carbs first to make your dip last longer. So now I have two cans - the dirty Gunk and the clean Berryman's. Carb bodies and bowls go into the gunk first to get the major external dirt off first - then into the cleaner Berryman's with all of the little bits.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
Gunk carb dip seems about as good as Berryman's. It's a bit clearer as well, so it's easier to find itty-bitty parts you may drop in it. I also like Gunk's basket a bit better.

I missed the memo about cleaning up the outside of the carbs first to make your dip last longer. So now I have two cans - the dirty Gunk and the clean Berryman's. Carb bodies and bowls go into the gunk first to get the major external dirt off first - then into the cleaner Berryman's with all of the little bits.
Click to expand...
I have two cans too but to speed the process along. :D
 
I used the $30 Napa dip..
It's the new Enviroment friendly(ish) version but it still works fine.
How well does it work? I had pilot screws that you couldn't remove..
I'm talking broken ez-out kinda stuck..
After a 3 day tour in the dip I took em out with a screwdriver.

Frozen master cylinder.. couldn't move the piston at all..
Chucked it in the dip for a week and pulled it out without scoring up the bore.

This new dip isn't as caustic as the old stuff so it won't attack rubber or corrode parts left in for extended periods.. It will swell rubber parts though..
I forgot the cup O-ring on the master cylinder. After a week in the dip it was 2x it's original diameter but still flexible. It didn't turn to goo or fall apart.

That is my experience anyway.

These are the carbs I did
Everything metal saw some dip time. Even the frame.. (dip it one end at a time)
Soak, pull em out, dunk in a bucket of water to get the dip off.. blow out with compressed air.. let dry.
IMGP0687.JPG

IMGP0688.JPG
 
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on a similar subject, what is the best solution to use in an ultrasonic cleaner, for carbs, or steel parts?
 
Hey thanks for all the info,i picked up the berrymans dip.I do have all the parts out including the air screws . I was cleaning up the small parts for the dip when i noticed the needle valve seat has the screen with a plastic ring holding it on ,how do i get them off with out breaking them?I want to dip the seat but i guess i could spray by hand. I appreciate you guys helping me because i know you have heard these questions hundreds of times before (Boring!). Thanks
 
I just did my rack 2 weeks ago, followed what Steve said, left in Berrymans for 24 hrs, with all rubber out of carbs. Came out nice and clean and bike sounds great.
 
To get the inlet valve screen off use a small screwdriver and put it in one of the notches and push. Do this in a shop towel so it doesn't go a fly'n. :D
 
I was skeered to get the screen out so I cleaned mine with carb spray in a can. I wish people who spray a little cleaner on their carbs and call them clean could have seen under the seats in mine! Bad bad bad!
 
:(Hey dipped first carb last night,wasn't thinking about it being a painted carb (black),came out all gummy half paint gone .Cleaned it and got 80%of paint off and put it back in the dip.Has any one done this before or do i win moron of the week honors?Do you blast the paint off before you dip them or is putting them in dip painted acceptable ?I'm thinking i might have ruined my dip?All suggestions and info appreciated, THANKS
 
Well you beat me to my issue with dip on '83 1100E carbs.
It takes the paint right off:eek::eek:
Sorry, I was going to warn you but just saw this post.
 
You might want to find someone with a walnut shell blaster now to clean the rest of the paint off. Go easy on the metal parts or you will remove the plating and the hardware will rust.
 
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