Sparkplugs: Can use these?

[Clone]

The plug for my bike is the D8EA-NGK this is the standard plug
Can I use these G-powerNGK plugs? DPR8EA-9

I read the pdf of how to size plugs and as far as I can understand, if the D-8-E-A are in the proper spots, then the plug should be the same size.

Am I wrong?

 

[Boondocks]

You shouldn't use the DPR8EA-9 plugs. The "P" stands for projected insulator type and the "R" denotes a resistor plug. They are made for later model bikes, including some Suzukis as at http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/step4.asp?id=2349&type=reg

Your model would work best with the standard D8EA as at http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/step4.asp?id=2349&type=reg

Note that the plug gap is 0.028 for the D8EA and 0.035 for the DPR8EA-9 plugs.

The other option for your bike would be the high performance DR8EIX Iridium plug as at http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/step4.asp?id=2338&type=ir and http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/iridiumix.asp

Picture of the DPR8EA-9 extended tip electrode

Picture of the D8EA electrode

Picture of the DR8EIX electrode. This is a platinum-type high performance plug.

 

[rednutt]

I had problems with my bike splatering on low rpm around town (traffic lights) I was running the D8EA plugs but thay wasnot getting enough temp to do the self cleaning. So NGK told me thay recomended to try DPR8EA-9 Thay seam to work quite well but the bike is doing its poping and farting crap on backoff (downhills) again. I inspeckted the plugs and the colour of the tips were red? I hope it is from the flashlube lead replacement stuff.. BUT you have to regap the plugs to 0.6-0.7. The gap is set wrong...

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I had problems with my bike splatering on low rpm around town (traffic lights) I was running the D8EA plugs but thay wasnot getting enough temp to do the self cleaning. So NGK told me thay recomended to try DPR8EA-9 Thay seam to work quite well but the bike is doing its poping and farting crap on backoff (downhills) again. I inspeckted the plugs and the colour of the tips were red? I hope it is from the flashlube lead replacement stuff.

I wonder what your plug reads are after fully warming up and then a few miles of steady minimal throttle testing? Sounds like a possible pilot circuit problem. Stock intake/exhaust?

 

[duaneage]

I agree with Keith, don't try to troublshoot a carb problem with different plugs.

 

[Steve]

Boondocks,

Quick question about the plugs...

You say not to use the DPR8EA-9 plugs, then mention the projected tip and the resistor. Are there clearance issues with the projected tip? What is wrong with the resisitor?

I have B8ES plugs in my wife's 850, and they are doing fine, but if there was interference with the satellite radio I am installing, I was considering using resistor plugs.

Many, many years ago, I attended a discussion put on by Champion Spark Plugs at the Aspencade Rally in New Mexico. They were talking up the advantages of the projected-tip plugs for some applications. The projected tip was closer to the combustion area, which cleaned it better in idle and low-speed operation, but also put it in the cooling stream of incoming air to keep it cooler in high speed operation. Seemed like the best of both worlds, as long at it did not project far enough to hit valves or pistons. I have not seen a need to use projected-tip plugs, but was wondering it there might be a clearance issue? :-s


.

 

[duaneage]

Resistor plugs are for for reducing radio interference, not usually a problem on a motorbike. The extended tip had advantages but piston to plug clearance is not one of them. If you try them turn the motor over by hand and see if they touch.

As for the incoming air stream cooling the plug, that sounds like marketing hype to me.

 

[Steve]

I agree that radio interference is not usually a problem, but we already have a CB radio installed (with no apparent interference) and will be installing XM satellite radio in the next couple of weeks. We will have to see if there is interference with that.

Since the normal plugs are doing well now, I don't see the need for projected-tip ones, I was just wondering if anybody knew for certain whether they might be just a bit too tight.

I wasn't too sure about the 'cooling airstream' either, but is sure sounded good at the time. 8-[

 

[Roland]

Bosch Spark Plugs

Bosch Spark Plugs

As I am still in the process of getting my bike road worth I have yet to find the appropriate Bosch spark plugs for my bike but for certain I will be installing four of these beauties.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/SparkPlugs/Platinum4

I found the Bosch Platinum2 years ago and now the only plugs I ever need to replace are from any vehicle I get that doesn't have them. A couple of years ago Bosch came out with the Platinum4 and now it has become my new best friend.

The beauty of these plugs is not only their platinum electrodes but also the 4 ground electrodes. Also the ceramic comes all the way up to the tip of the electrode. The spark gap has been set at the factory and should not be changed. I never have tips wear out and I also have never had any fouled plugs since I changed to the Bosch Plugs. They cost a little more but well worth it in my book. According to the tests they provide 4.8% better fuel savings and 33% better cold restart reliability.

For your sputtering during idling situation it sounds like you have a fuel air mixture issue not a plug issue. Check out this PDF with special attention to items 1 and 2.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdonlyres/7F3B3235-87DC-497B-A7D9-FBBAD66D08CB/0/PlugHeatRange.pdf

Also check out this PDF about the different Heat Ranges of plugs.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdonlyres/7F3B3235-87DC-497B-A7D9-FBBAD66D08CB/0/PlugHeatRange.pdf

For the full low down on the testing of the Bosch Platinum series read the Q&A "What are the advantages of surface air gap plugs such as Platinum+4 and Platinum2?"
http://www.boschautoparts.com/Resources/FAQS/SparkPlugs.htm

 

[Boondocks]

Boondocks,

Quick question about the plugs...

You say not to use the DPR8EA-9 plugs, then mention the projected tip and the resistor. Are there clearance issues with the projected tip? What is wrong with the resisitor?

Steve, the DPR8EA-9 plug is not the one recommended by NGK for Clone's bike. I was just pointing out the differences between it and the recommended plug. There is nothing wrong with resistor plugs, except they may use voltage reserves on bikes not originally designed for them. There can be clearance issues with projected tip plugs on bikes not designed for them, but I have no specific information. On an unmodified bike I think it's best to use the plugs that are recommended by the manufacturer, the ones that are used when the engine is developed. I try to focus on what is known to work and will not expose someone to possible unknown/unfavorable consequences.

If a person wants to do a spark plug experiment on his bike to see what will happen, he is free to do so.

 

[GS1100GLMLA]

Steve, you are right about the projected core nose spark plugs. I'm an Industrial/Manufacturing Engineer for Champion Spark Plug (Federal Mogul Ignition Products) in Burlington, Iowa and I have all the literature about that and a lot of other things about spark plugs. 99% of all the variations of one type of spark plug are just gimmicks to get you to buy a more expensive spark plug. The only purpose for the platinum tipped (Center Electrode and/or Ground Electrode) spark plugs is for them to last longer. They won't make the engine run any better. The most important things are the correct heat range, correct gap, and correct core nose projection that affects your engines performance. The resistor plugs should not cause a problem in the GS engines. If it does then you already have an electrical problem that needs to be fixed.

 

[Clone]

GS1100GLMLA you are the man that can get the information. I have scoured the web and pestered many a "partskid" (I say parts kid because, pimply faced punks, know nothing of anything other than their Honda civic) for plugs for my bike, and if it isn't in their "computer" it doesn't exist, even though i have found plugs in the cross reference books (paper does still exist). But I haven't gotten my hands on a Bosch cross guide. I am dying for a set of platinum plugs (Bosch) that cross to D8EA-DR8EA, if you can come up with that it would be great. The next time the NGK rep. drops into the dealership I am hitting him up for some "G-Power" plugs if he can get them.

Thanks Clone

 

[Boondocks]

GS1100GLMLA you are the man that can get the information. I have scoured the web and pestered many a "partskid" (I say parts kid because, pimply faced punks, know nothing of anything other than their Honda civic) for plugs for my bike, and if it isn't in their "computer" it doesn't exist, even though i have found plugs in the cross reference books (paper does still exist). But I haven't gotten my hands on a Bosch cross guide. I am dying for a set of platinum plugs (Bosch) that cross to D8EA-DR8EA, if you can come up with that it would be great. The next time the NGK rep. drops into the dealership I am hitting him up for some "G-Power" plugs if he can get them.

Thanks Clone

There is nothing special about Bosch platinum plugs, except maybe their marketing. The NGK DR8EIX plugs referenced in my earlier post are platinum type plugs and are a direct replacement for your bike. They are just as good as the Bosch plugs. Iridium is used in the plugs, a member of the platinum group. Iridium is the most corrosion resistant metal known, and only slightly less dense than the densest element (osmium).

As GS1100GLMLA has stated, platinum plugs will last longer because of their corrosion resistance, but have no magical properties.

 

[GS1100GLMLA]

Hi Clone,

Not all spark plug manufacturers make the platinum plugs for all vehicles. Typically the O.E. manufacturers want a plug that will last at least 100,000 miles and then the spark plug manufacturers will provide an aftermarket for them. The reason there is not much of a platinum spark plug market for motorcycles is because the motorcycle manufacturers don't warrent the motorcycles for 100,000 miles or even close. Most motorcycles would not need the benefits of a 100,000 mile plug so there is not much of a market for them. I did some cross referencing and Champion makes a RA6HC conventional plug with 8809 power sport plug. The power sport plug has a finer center electrode tip and has a glass/brass center electrode core assembly seal. It's only advantage is it may allow a poorly tuned motorcycle to start a little easier. NGK calls out for a D8EA plug and Bosch calls out for a XR4CS. I couldn't find any double or single platinum plugs though that would work on you 83 GS750ED. The closest on Champion makes is the RA8PHP which is a double platinum plug with a copper core ground electrode. It is the next heat range up for what your motorcycle requires. I couldn't find a cross reference yet for the Bosch. It may not be made for your model.

 

[Clone]

Thanks for the effort. You guys are great.:-D

 

[DCgs450L]

As I am still in the process of getting my bike road worth I have yet to find the appropriate Bosch spark plugs for my bike but for certain I will be installing four of these beauties.


I found the Bosch Platinum2 years ago and now the only plugs I ever need to replace are from any vehicle I get that doesn't have them. A couple of years ago Bosch came out with the Platinum4 and now it has become my new best friend.

In both my old ford and chrysler I kept getting fouled plugs after 10K miles. I found out that it was the Bosch Platinum2's (recommended by factory). I put in Autolite Double Platinums and the problem went away in both vehicles. I have heard a lot of mechs dogging Bosch plugs, so don't believe the marketing (that you quoted) You can engineer a test to give whatever results you want. I refuse to use them anymore, even in my new car. Better off staying with the recommended NGK unless they aren't working. Don't expect any noticeable gains from a different plug that wasn't engineered for that engine.

 

[rednutt]

I wonder what your plug reads are after fully warming up and then a few miles of steady minimal throttle testing? Sounds like a possible pilot circuit problem. Stock intake/exhaust?

Hi keith,
The exhaust on my bike is a 4-1 the filter is a Uni-filter in the stock air box! NGK told me to try the DPR8EA-9 As the self cleaning is not happing on the spark plug.There idears are turn the bike off at Traffic lights or intersections save too much idleing or ride it like you stold it 1st and 2nd all around town.I dont think I have a carb problem because the bike gos hard on the highway and when I get to a town its all good no splatering from intersections for a wile untill I cruse around town then it seemes to start to play up. give it a good flog on the highway all good again...

 

[Clone]

Rednutt, I have to go with Keith on this, you have a fuel delivery problem, which on these bikes can only mean carbs. If you plugs get dirty and you have to run it at high rpms all the time or they foul, you are only skirting an issue rather than addressing it. Running a hotter plug is fine but you need to take a look at what is causing you to need a hotter plug.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Like I said, do some plug chop/tests at minimal, 1/3 and full throttle and see what the plugs say.
If the plugs are dark only at minimal throttle, that suggests a carb issue, most likely the pilot circuit.
If the plugs are dark at all tests, that suggests either carb issues at all three jetting circuits, or a weak spark. Higher rpm operation can help a weak spark but it will eventually get worse and the carbon build up (from either weak spark or rich mixtures) creates other problems.

 

[duaneage]

Check the spark plug boots or better yet just replace them. A set of four costs 16 dollars and they look better and work better in the rain.

But again, don't fix carb problems with spark plugs.