• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Specific questions about carbs and such.

  • Thread starter Thread starter cloudkmr
  • Start date Start date
C

cloudkmr

Guest
I've been searching the forums for a few hours now and havent found exactly what I'm looking for. I'm very new to all this, but willing and wanting to learn. So a few questions (about my 1979 GS 750 L) if you guys would be so kind.

Ok, first off, the bike starts up pretty well but takes a good long time (3-5 minutes) to idle on it's own. While doing that it pops and threatens to die when I ease off the choke. So, I took the new looking spark plugs out and they were pitch black. Clearly the bike is running rich. Question is what exactly can be done to remedy this?
previous owner told me the carbs were cleaned a little over a year ago, and last "service" was 8 months or so ago. I've found on here carbs need to be adjusted and something with the jets needs to be done to have the bike run less rich but I hoping for specifics.

Secondly, is there any disadvantages to switching my air filter system to pods rather than the air box thing?

Thirdly, I'm replacing my speedometer cable since my speedometer dosent work, thing is, the cable attached at the wheel in such a way I'd have to take apart the front wheel assembly. Just checking if theres any red flags I should know about doing this? Or tricks to getting the cable off?

Thanks again.
 
cloudkmr said:
Clearly the bike is running rich.
Click to expand...

It's lean.

This is why it takes so long to run without the choke, and why it pops when you reduce the choke. The plugs are black because they have not been hot enough to clean themselves, and the cylinders don't really fire very efficiently when they are not thoroughly warmed up anyway. Most likely you have air leaks around the carburetor boots or the airbox, there could be other causes also.

cloudkmr said:
Secondly, is there any disadvantages to switching my air filter system to pods rather than the air box thing?
Click to expand...

Some guys like the look or louder sound of pods, maybe a tad more power at very high RPM, but it requires a lot of tuning to get it right. Don't even think about using the cheapo pods, they are a tuning nightmare.


cloudkmr said:
Thirdly, I'm replacing my speedometer cable since my speedometer dosent work, thing is, the cable attached at the wheel in such a way I'd have to take apart the front wheel assembly. Just checking if theres any red flags I should know about doing this? Or tricks to getting the cable off?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Easy stuff, take it apart and put it back together. make sure the cable is aimed correctly do it isn't kinked in the first inch or two.
 
Last edited:
tkent02 said:
It's lean.

This is why it takes so long to run without the choke, and why it pops when you reduce the choke. The plugs are black because they have not been hot enough to clean themselves, and the cylinders don't really fire very efficiently when they are not thoroughly warmed up anyway. Most likely you have air leaks around the carburetor boots or the airbox, there could be other causes also.



Some guys like the look or louder sound of pods, maybe a tad more power at very high RPM, but it requires a lot of tuning to get it right. Don't even think about using the cheapo pods, they are a tuning nightmare.




Easy stuff, take it apart and put it back together. make sure the cable is aimed correctly do it isn't kinked in the first inch or two.
Click to expand...

Ok, brilliant thank you. I did a read up on how to replace the seals and boots on the carbs, so I'll look into that further as a first step. I'll be taking a bit of the area apart anyways so this all works out.

So with the pods, if done right could potentially help in fixing my current issue? And how does one tune them properly? Any suggestions on quality makers of pods for GS's?

Thanks again
 
cloudkmr said:
So with the pods, if done right could potentially help in fixing my current issue? And how does one tune them properly? Any suggestions on quality makers of pods for GS's?
Click to expand...

No, band-aids on top of band-aids rarely work very well. Get it running correctly in stock form before making any changes. Do all of the required maintenance, adjust the valves, clean and synchronize the carburetors, tune the ignition correctly, fix the little leaks, all of it. Read Cliff's welcome, there is a metric ton of useful information there. Take your time, do it right, it's good work, it's enjoyable and good for you. Then and only then will you know you have a reliable and safe bike, every bit as reliable as it was when it left the factory, and as reliable as a modern bike.

There are several members here from the Seattle area, some of them may trade technical assistance for beer or bike cleaning or something.
 
cloudkmr said:
So with the pods, if done right could potentially help in fixing my current issue? And how does one tune them properly? Any suggestions on quality makers of pods for GS's?

Thanks again
Click to expand...

No. Pods would make your current issue worse.
Tkent's post is spot on. There's no "easy fix" There is just "fix" I suggest getting it to run stock first, then switching to pods, especially if you're a beginner. You want to limit the variables as much as possible. At least getting it to run stock you have the baseline which is the manual. When it comes time for the pods K&N seem to be the standard for quality.

edit . Tkent beat me to it.
 
cloudkmr said:
So with the pods, if done right could potentially help in fixing my current issue? And how does one tune them properly? Any suggestions on quality makers of pods for GS's?

Thanks again
Click to expand...
Done right, pods will be OK, but get it running right, then do the switch to pods. Why fight two problems at the same time, trying to figure out which one is causing you the most grief?

.
 
cloudkmr said:
Secondly, is there any disadvantages to switching my air filter system to pods rather than the air box thing?
Click to expand...

An easy answer to this can be found by following my recent threads... the bike simply won't RUN without the factory airbox without a bunch of jetting work to the carbs... Ask me how I know! :dancing: :rolleyes:

Still working at it, though... and it does look pretty cool. Now to make it run as cool as it looks... ;)
 
Bluewool and tkent02:

understood, sounds reasonable enough to me. I have been perusing cliffs website and welcome page and I'll be taking notes after lunch. Thanks again for steering me in the proper direction, I'll be putting up some photos of my mucking about for the first time. Need to get done before spring eh!
Thanks again.

Happy to provide beer for a bit of help if I end up needing it. I'm in glorious Federal Way if these any Seattle folk reading this. May seek you out if need be...
 
Darin Jordan:

Damn shame youve got there, sorry to hear about it. I'll check up on your progress as well to learn from you a bit. Thank you for the post.

Steve:

Agreed, I like the look but as it's been said by you and others I really would to to and should get the girl running clean first off. Thanks for the feed back.
 
I'll +++ the get it running right stock first. Pods look cool but unless you're planning to do more work to the motor, those and a good aftermarket pipe and correctly set up jet kit are maybe +5 or so HP at BEST. Not all that noticeable. Plus, as there is no jet kit for that bike currently offered, you'll have to hand jet it and that's a LOT of trial and error. There are those of us that can get you in the ballpark but no two bikes will be set up exactly the same, so we're giving you educated guesses.

Before you even bother with carburetion you really need to adjust/check the valve clearances. This is probably the most often overlooked maintenance you'll find from non mechanical owners. Some simply don't realize how often it needs done. And if YOU haven't done it, assume it's been a long long time. Tight clearances on the valves will have an effect on how well the bike runs, and how it carburetes too. So before you mess with the carbs, assure these are taken care of to have a good baseline. Then move on to the carbs. I would suggest, as much as you probably don't want to hear it, tearing them down and cleaning them yourself as per the tutorial found here on the site. Not only will this assure that you KNOW they are cleaned properly but it will serve to familiarize you with how they works, the different parts therein etc so that if you DO decide to go to pods and rejet, you'll know what everyone is talking about when you have questions.
Your intake boots are necessary if you've not attended to them. Again, assume they've never been dealt with, and get new orings for them. Doing these things will go along way in making your life easier in getting that bike going again.

None of this stuff is particularly hard. Sure it sounds a bit daunting, but BassCliff has provided excellent tutorials that he and other members have done that are clear and consice and loaded with pics. Good luck!
 
TheCafeKid said:
I'll +++ the get it running right stock first. Pods look cool but unless you're planning to do more work to the motor, those and a good aftermarket pipe and correctly set up jet kit are maybe +5 or so HP at BEST. Not all that noticeable. Plus, as there is no jet kit for that bike currently offered, you'll have to hand jet it and that's a LOT of trial and error. There are those of us that can get you in the ballpark but no two bikes will be set up exactly the same, so we're giving you educated guesses.

Before you even bother with carburetion you really need to adjust/check the valve clearances. This is probably the most often overlooked maintenance you'll find from non mechanical owners. Some simply don't realize how often it needs done. And if YOU haven't done it, assume it's been a long long time. Tight clearances on the valves will have an effect on how well the bike runs, and how it carburetes too. So before you mess with the carbs, assure these are taken care of to have a good baseline. Then move on to the carbs. I would suggest, as much as you probably don't want to hear it, tearing them down and cleaning them yourself as per the tutorial found here on the site. Not only will this assure that you KNOW they are cleaned properly but it will serve to familiarize you with how they works, the different parts therein etc so that if you DO decide to go to pods and rejet, you'll know what everyone is talking about when you have questions.
Your intake boots are necessary if you've not attended to them. Again, assume they've never been dealt with, and get new orings for them. Doing these things will go along way in making your life easier in getting that bike going again.

None of this stuff is particularly hard. Sure it sounds a bit daunting, but BassCliff has provided excellent tutorials that he and other members have done that are clear and consice and loaded with pics. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've been reading a few tutorials as well as something I found explaining everything with a carb, including the valves, so Im understanding it a bit better already. I does sound daunting, yes, especially considering how little I've done with an engine, but I'm definitely going to at least look at everything and slowly check and repair things.
I just bought all the o-rings and new bolts I'll need but I'm not sure where to buy the intake and air box boots? Any ideas on those? I think I'll only buy the air box boots for now though.

Thanks again. You guys are amazing.
 
Hi,

From your "mega-welcome":

"Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers."

All of these issues must be addressed to have a safe, reliable, well-running machine. You'll also find a list of vendors in your "mega-welcome". Some of the vendors with the best prices are Z1, CyclePartsNation, PartShark, Parts-n-More, and G&S Suzuki.

Have you read your "mega-welcome" yet? You received it in this thread.

With bikes as old and (sometimes) neglected as these, there are no quick fixes. Taking shortcuts or skipping steps will leave you frustrated or stranded on the side of the road. So read up on the procedures, ask questions, roll up your sleeves, and get to wrenching. :)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Check bike bandit or Boulevard Suzuki for boots on both sides of the carbs. I bought mine from Boulevard Suzuki. They are reasonably priced.

Carb cleaning only seems daunting because you've never done it. Riding a bike was daunting before you learned. After that, it was easy. Same thing here. Just dive in and don't worry about it. Once you start taking the carbs apart, you'll see that it's not rocket science at all. Just time consuming. Has the bike been running regularly since the last carb cleaning, or has it sat with gas in it? If it sat there with gas in it, then they definitely need cleaning again. Good luck with it. Oh, and +1 on doing a valve adjustment first.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top