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Springs specs

1948man

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Do old springs get longer or shorter? The specs for my front fork springs are 20.3". The old ones measure 21.25" so they seem to have stretched. My new progressive springs came in measuring only 18" which surprised me. In BassCliff's write up, the pics showed his progressive springs to be longer than his stockers and that is what I was expecting. I guess I will be using a long spacer according to the Progressive instructions. Since my springs will be about 2" shorter than the original ones, I think my spacers will need to be longer than the stock ones which are 3 1/8". The PVC spacer material included with the Progressives is 10" so if I cut it in half, I will have to 5" pieces. Does that seem awful long.
 
Well I found some data for a 1000L (Maybe close enough) that says the springs should start out at 21.3 with a service limit of 20.3 so I guess they shorten and my original springs are almost at the starting spec (Maybe the 6000 miles on my bike when I bought were actually accurate.)
Anyway, does anyone have an opinion on the 18" springs that Progressive sent me? Does 18 inches raise any red flags?
 
Thanks TWR. Yes, I got the 11-1107. Was that on your 1100GL or your 1000L? Since the new springs are 3 inches shorter than what came out, I'm thinking using 3" PVC plus the original spacer should bring me to about the top of the fork. I'm not sure of how the new springs affect preload requirements. Should I end up with my spacer a little higher out of the fork with the new springs or maybe lower?I sent u a PM after reading one of your old posts about this. While I'm on this subject, I keep reading about folks changing their spacers. Is it possible to do this without taking the forks off the bike? Jim M
 
Jim, you can change the spacer without taking the forks off the bike to adjust your final preload if needed. I would recommend taking the forks off the bike and taking them completely apart when you do the initial install so you can fully inspect the sliders, teflon bushing, and flush out the tubes. Check Basscliffs site for the instructions on how to do it and you will need the "special tool" to get the damper rod out. The parts fiche makes it look like a tough job with all the pieces but in reality it is not that hard to do.

Use some blue loctite on the allen bolt to re-assemble and you should be good to go. I am using the Pro Moly seals and dust boots. If you use them do not hammer them in, they will leak. Just push them lightly so you can get the washer and circlip over them and that is it.
 
Thanks again and yes, I have everything apart and cleaned up well. Was just wondering if I could shorten a spacer after I have everything reassembled without total reassembly. Your help is greatly appreciated. Jim M
 
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