sputters at low rpms

[Anonymous]

its really weird but i suspect that some of diodes are dead so the stator doesnt generate enuff current to power the spark plugs which is weird cuz at higher rpms it works but you'd think that higher rpms=more spark plugs usage?

 

[earlfor]

Re: sputters at low rpms

The stator doesnt directly power the ignition system. It charges the battery through the regulator/rectifier and the ignition draws current from the battery. The stator produces
AC current. The battery is DC. If your battery is being sufficiently charged, it probable the charging system is fine.
Usually, if coils are going to break down, they are more prone to do so at high rpm's rather than low rpm's. I would look more to dirty idle jets in the carbs, or possibly old spark plug boots needing replacing, or corrosion on the wire connectors in the ignition wiring harness.

Earl

its really weird but i suspect that some of diodes are dead so the stator doesnt generate enuff current to power the spark plugs which is weird cuz at higher rpms it works but you'd think that higher rpms=more spark plugs usage?

 

[Anonymous]

then how come when it sputters the headlight dims but at higher rpms its brighter.

 

[kz]

then how come when it sputters the headlight dims but at higher rpms its brighter.

You can have a short circuit somethere in your electrical system, if your electrics are fine and your battery is charged, it is possible to run the engine without the stator working at all.

1.
Have you meassured the voltage according to spec. normally 14.0 - 15.5V at 5000rpm with the high beam on?

2.
Have you meassured the stator output 80V (AC) at 5000rpm?

 

[Anonymous]

yes when i charge the battery fully it works fine but only for one short run, its possible that it is a short because the power goes out sometimes for no reason .

 

[Anonymous]

more help? this is a very serious problem

 

[Anonymous]

Old bikes and snowmachines will have dim lights at low RPMs. That part isn't a big deal unless your light is actually going out or is dangerously dim.

Now, you mentioned that your power is going out at times. This tells me that you have a loose wire somewhere in the regulator area or even the battery. You should go to the electrex website and follow their diagnosis page as your problem is listed there(more or less).

Steve

 

[Anonymous]

You haven't said if you checked the charging system. Start there. follow the instructions located at the stator papers (I think) on this web site.

 

[redliner1973]

Also, while checking, Make sure that ALL connectors and Ground wires are CLEAN and TIGHT......Suzi's are notorious for those problems, and a bike that old is almost guarenteed to have this problem.

 

[argonsagas]

You must look at and clean the connections everywhere.....this is a normal maintenance item on these bikes.

Your problem sounds like a poor ground or a poor battery.

Remove the battery from the bike.

Check the battery voltage and record it. Look at the water level in all cells and bring it up to proper level....use water only, preferably distilled water.

If it takes a fair amount of water then you need to give it a trickle charge overnight, then disconnect the charger, let it sit for at least ten minutes to stabilize and check the voltage, then let it sit for at least an hour more and check the voltage again. There will be some difference in voltage, but it should not drop more than half a volt even after a full day.

If it drops under 12 volts you probably need a new battery.

You can have a load test on the battery done at a shop to get an even better indication of its ability.

If the voltage is stable and good, then re-install it and try the bike.

After the battery is resolved, and connections cleaned up, if you still have problems, you can print the Stator Papers from this site and take them with you to the bike...work from there, and follow the instructions in order.

 

[Anonymous]

i cant check the charging system, my tach doesnt work

 

[argonsagas]

i cant check the charging system, my tach doesnt work

OK, the tach has done a bunker. Does that mean the sun won't shine for a month?

Of course you can check the charging system. Whether or not the tach works has nothing to do with the charging system.

Get a good (preferably digital) volt-ohmmeter and check the battery...as already suggested.


Check the charging system at idle...then rev the engine to a fairly high RPM and check the system again. Don't open it up, just keep it reasonable. 5000 RPM is recommended, but it won't hurt the engine if you are off by 1000 RPM in either direction, and you will still get a fairly accurate voltage reading. If it shows positive, accept that and be happy.

 

[kz]

Argonsagas is right,

Connect a multimeter i.e. at the battery mains.

Then, thrust your ears, hit the throttle and see if you reach at least 14.0 V.

If this is OK, you at least know if it is the charging system or not.