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SS allen bolt replacements for camshaft cover ....

  • Thread starter Thread starter SAVAGE
  • Start date Start date
S

SAVAGE

Guest
Hi,
First post and all :)
I tried the search but couldn't find the info i required ....
I'm going to replace the camshaft cover original bolts with stainless allen head cap bolts on my gs1000.
My question,is it better to use just a plain washers or a combination of spring and plain ?
Also,should i use some copperease or similar on the threads,as oppposed to dry,and how does this maybe effect the torques i should be applying ?
I have heard also of a drop of silicone under the washern helps to stop moisture getting into the threads also ?
Any help on the best practice for this would be appreciated ....
Cheers.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. SAVAGE,

I would suggest getting a kit from Z1Enterprises.com and replacing all the phillips head bolts on the engine.

stainless.jpg


You'll get bolts for the stator cover, clutch cover, ignition cover, valve cover, etc, for a very reasonable price.

I use a little white Permatex thread sealer (NOT the red thread locker) on my valve cover bolts, with no washers. Because I use a silicone rubber Real Gasket the torque is much less than stock. The thread sealer guards against the bolts backing out.


Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
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If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
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Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

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Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed. I will put you on my prayer list.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Cheers for the info and the welcome BassCliff :) .... i suppose the thing that concerns me the most then is the correct torque i should be using.
Can i get away with doing them by hand to be sure to not overtighten or is best to use a proper torque value ?

I have a couple of pics i could upload ... except both my GS's are chopped and i don't want to offend any purists. ;)
 
SAVAGE said:
Can i get away with doing them by hand to be sure to not overtighten or is best to use a proper torque value ?

I have a couple of pics i could upload ... except both my GS's are chopped and i don't want to offend any purists. ;)
Click to expand...

The factory screws don't use a lock washer so you don't have to add them for your replacements either.

Suzuki lists the recommended torque setting in the factory service manual. Basscliff has free download if you don't already have a proper manual.

As far as offending, most people around here aren't offended by chop jobs as long as the bike is reasonably safe afterwards. Those guys removing the brakes are idiots. My pet peeve is loud exhausts; they are offensive and damage the perception of motorcyclists in general. Sadly, they seem to go hand and hand with bobbers/choppers and sometimes cafe bikes as well. As long as you are being responsible with your bike the people here will bend over backwards to help you out.
 
If you are careful you can do them by hand.As for pics if you can take the heat post them.If you chopped nice bikes then expect some flak.Not a chopping fan but if you did a decent job ...............
 
Hi,

SAVAGE said:
Can i get away with doing them by hand to be sure to not overtighten or is best to use a proper torque value ?
Click to expand...

Sure, you can get away with doing it "by hand". There's no need for "gorilla tight" on the valve cover bolts. Check your manual to be sure, but I think the factory spec is 6-7 foot pounds using a stock paper valve cover gasket. It's just a skosh past snug.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thanks for the responses all .... think i will reserve pics for the min,as opinions obviously vary on what makes a good bike eh,personally i love loud pipes :p :D
 
Cliff and Ed..I have been looking for the chromed socket styled bolt kits that have the frlanges already built into them Just like the OEM cam cover bolts but chromed. I want to put that style bolts on all my bikes. I havent seen anyone carrying bolt kits with this style head..anyhthing in your vendor lists???
 
RIMFIRE CYCLE SCREWS has kits for several bikes in both mild steel and stainless...but not with the chromed flange head style I am looking for.
 
Any benefits to using flanged head bolts,as opposed to the allen caps,with the larger surface area do they offer better performance ? Seen some nice stainless ones .... :confused:
 
Hi,

chuck hahn said:
Cliff and Ed..I have been looking for the chromed socket styled bolt kits that have the frlanges already built into them Just like the OEM cam cover bolts but chromed. I want to put that style bolts on all my bikes. I havent seen anyone carrying bolt kits with this style head..anyhthing in your vendor lists???
Click to expand...

Sorry, I don't know of a source. I was looking on www.mcmastercarr.com and didn't see anything like that.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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