• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

SS Brake lines for the GS1000

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
RUS-640511 ENDURA #3 TO 10MM (3/8")35DEG 4 @$8.99 $35.96


RUS-657040 18" STRAIT #3X10MM BANJO 3 @$21.99 $65.97


RUS-657080 30" #3 X10MM BANJO 1 @$23.99 1 $23.99

Total: $125.92

Here's what I ordered from Summit Racing for the Skunk. The lines come with a straight banjo crimped on one end and an AN-3 female on the other end. Install the 35 degree banjo fitting on the other end and you're done.
A bit cheaper than the kits available out there. Plus I was able to shorten the lines going down to the front calipers by one inch (the stock ones are too long IMO). I'll post some pics after I get them installed.
 
Last edited:
RUS-640511 ENDURA #3 TO 10MM (3/8")35DEG 4 @$8.99 $35.96


RUS-657040 18" STRAIT #3X10MM BANJO 3 @$21.99 $65.97


RUS-657080 30" #3 X10MM BANJO 1 @$23.99 1 $23.99

Total: $125.92

Here's what I ordered from Summit Racing for the Skunk. The lines come with a straight banjo crimped on one end and an AN-3 female on the other end. Install the 35 degree fitting on the other end and your'e done.
A bit cheaper than the kits available out there. Plus I was able to shorten the lines going down to the front calipers by one inch (the stock ones are too long IMO). I'll post some pics after I get them installed.

Sounds like an excellent price. I paid $179 for the custom red lines on my 1000. Made by Galfer, I got 'em through www.cyclebrakes.com. I was able to specify the lengths required, banjo to banjo. Order to delivery took 3 days! I was impressed.

Only mistake I made was measuring a 16" line from the master cylinder. Since I have a short handle bar, I'm okay. But if I ever want to put a higher bar on, I'll need to replace the line.

You got a good deal, my friend.
 
BTW, these are Russell competition brake lines.

rus-657030_w.jpg
 
There's a shop here in Albuquerque (PECO Industries on 2nd street) that makes custom brake lines. I'm sure that they aren't the only ones in the country with the machine to make them. Just had a set made for a KZ900. Braided stainless, two lines, 38" long. 90 degree banjo on the top and a 30 degree banjo on the bottom. Took about 20 minutes to make them up while I waited. $72 total with tax.

You might check where you live and see if there aren't similar shops that make hydraulic lines and stuff.

Tracy
 
There's a shop here in Albuquerque (PECO Industries on 2nd street) that makes custom brake lines. I'm sure that they aren't the only ones in the country with the machine to make them. Just had a set made for a KZ900. Braided stainless, two lines, 38" long. 90 degree banjo on the top and a 30 degree banjo on the bottom. Took about 20 minutes to make them up while I waited. $72 total with tax.

You might check where you live and see if there aren't similar shops that make hydraulic lines and stuff.

Tracy

That's a good deal. The same set up you have would be 85.34 + tax from Summit. I checked with a few local shops... one wanted $195.00 + tax, the other $210.00 + tax. 8O The cheapest I was quoted online was $156.00 + freight. Summit is in my back yard so I can pick them up. I like the look and quality of the Russell stuff, too.
 
I got a set of HEL SS lines on my 850 Major improvement in braking
AND I got them for free ;) No I didn't steal them, they never sent the bill..
 
Ditto on the hydraulic hose shop. I got braided steel lines for the brakes and oil cooler made at a local shop. They made 'em while I waited.
 
RUS-640511 ENDURA #3 TO 10MM (3/8")35DEG 4 @$8.99 $35.96


RUS-657040 18" STRAIT #3X10MM BANJO 3 @$21.99 $65.97


RUS-657080 30" #3 X10MM BANJO 1 @$23.99 1 $23.99

Total: $125.92

Here's what I ordered from Summit Racing for the Skunk. The lines come with a straight banjo crimped on one end and an AN-3 female on the other end. Install the 35 degree banjo fitting on the other end and you're done.
A bit cheaper than the kits available out there. Plus I was able to shorten the lines going down to the front calipers by one inch (the stock ones are too long IMO). I'll post some pics after I get them installed.

Why 4 lines? Are you not eliminating the splitter? Do you have pics of the installation?
 
Why 4 lines? Are you not eliminating the splitter? Do you have pics of the installation?

No, I'm not eliminating the splitter. I haven't picked them up yet. There was one piece that was back-ordered. I should have them by the end of the week. I'll post some pics once they are installed.
 
RUS-640511 ENDURA #3 TO 10MM (3/8")35DEG 4 @$8.99 $35.96


RUS-657040 18" STRAIT #3X10MM BANJO 3 @$21.99 $65.97


RUS-657080 30" #3 X10MM BANJO 1 @$23.99 1 $23.99

Total: $125.92

Here's what I ordered from Summit Racing for the Skunk. The lines come with a straight banjo crimped on one end and an AN-3 female on the other end. Install the 35 degree banjo fitting on the other end and you're done.
A bit cheaper than the kits available out there. Plus I was able to shorten the lines going down to the front calipers by one inch (the stock ones are too long IMO). I'll post some pics after I get them installed.
Thanks RenoBruce, I've been wanting to do this to my GS750 and did not know where to order the parts. Is there any place this can be saved so we can get back to it??
 
Thanks RenoBruce, I've been wanting to do this to my GS750 and did not know where to order the parts. Is there any place this can be saved so we can get back to it??

Maybe just print it out and keep it with your manual. My backordered stuff is finally in... I'll get them picked up and take some pics.
 
The 18" lines are a bit too short. Ordering some 21" lines that should be here later this week. I'll post my results.
 
Well, I stayed with the 18" lines down the legs, and used the 21" line from the master cylinder to the tee. The rear line worked out great. The 18" lines down the legs are shorter than stock. I wanted to shorten them up a bit to keep them from running into the oil cooler. If you want to go with stock lengths, get 20" lines. Here's some pics:





 
Well, I stayed with the 18" lines down the legs, and used the 21" line from the master cylinder to the tee. The rear line worked out great. The 18" lines down the legs are shorter than stock. I wanted to shorten them up a bit to keep them from running into the oil cooler. If you want to go with stock lengths, get 20" lines. Here's some pics:





Thanks Reno, you did an esxcellent job. Appreciate the info.
 
Home built brake lines.

Home built brake lines.

Have any of you ever contemplated getting metric fittings and bulk braided hose? On a few of the off-road rigs and exotic cars I service, some length and fitting combinations are not available. The process to construct your own braided lines is not diffiult as long as a suitable cutting tool is available (pnuematic abrasive cutoff wheels work dandily). Given all bits and measurements, the process is less than 10 minutes per line.
 
Have any of you ever contemplated getting metric fittings and bulk braided hose? On a few of the off-road rigs and exotic cars I service, some length and fitting combinations are not available. The process to construct your own braided lines is not diffiult as long as a suitable cutting tool is available (pnuematic abrasive cutoff wheels work dandily). Given all bits and measurements, the process is less than 10 minutes per line.
Yes, that is my goal. I haven't really found a supplier yet that supplies in bulk but must also admit that I haven't looked that hard either. We do have an artical that defines the required steps necessary to make this change. If you know of a supplier that will work with us individually, please supply that information.
Appreciate
 
Brake lines, continued.

Brake lines, continued.

I source from a local supply house (local to Owings Mills, MD), but anywhere that carries Aeroquip should be of use as long as you can specify fitting and internal hose dimensions.
 
Summit Racing sells bulk. So do a few of the motocycle parts houses. But don't you need a special tool to crimp the fittings on?
 
Summit Racing sells bulk. So do a few of the motocycle parts houses. But don't you need a special tool to crimp the fittings on?
Reno,
In one of the articals on the forum, the hoses are cut and fittings are tightened with a nut that spreads the hose tight against the fitting. Is this not the prefered way?? The last thing we want is to have the brakes fail due to a fitting issue. I tried to find that artical but could not locate.:oops:
 
Back
Top