SS lines for an 1150 - check my specs?

[UncleMike]

Been wanting to build my own SS lines for a while now, but things just weren't adding up when I tried to figure out the fittings I needed. Since my 1150 was back in NY and I was in CA, it was hard to get answers. Now I'm back in NY picking up the bike and I want to do the deed before I take off again.

Here's what's listed in the outline Nessism provided, from fittings found here.

For three piece lines:
- 2 non adjustable angled hose ends (P/N 600803 x 2)
- 1 adjustable angled hose ends (P/N 600503 x 1)
- 1 non adjustable straight hose ends (P/N 600703 x 1)
- 2 adjustable straight hose ends (P/N 600403 x 2)
- 5? of -3 hose

For the 1150, the fittings going into the splitter and into each caliper aren't those hose ends listed. It's actually a straight threaded end - P/N 640303. I'm guessing that's correct because it's the traditional 10MMX1.0. So I'd need three of those, and three of the angled, non-adjustables along with 4' of total length including hardware/fittings, so 5' would be good for a bit of a buffer?

The rear just takes two straights and 2' of hose. Those should be non-adjustable as well, or one should be adjustable?

Anyone feel like checking my assumptions?

 

[Nessism]

As a general rule Mike, you want one adjustable hose-end per tube assembly. This is not strictly necessary, but it makes life slightly easier to get the hose-end clocking angle just right.

Most GS bike brake lines use one straight hose-end and one that's angled in some way. This is just a general rule of thumb though, you should check your particular application to make sure this jives with what you want to do. Bottom line is to have the line lay in position without a bunch of bending stress in the tubing itself, the sharp bending should be in the hose-end.

It's slightly easier if the adjustable hose-ends are accessible for tweaking, as opposed to being attached to the splitter in front, or the master in rear. Fully tighten the non-adjustable hose end, then install the adjustable hose-end but don't fully snug it tight until it's laying on the bike and bolted up - this way you know the clocking is perfect.

Of course, there are all kinds of variations on the theme depending on personal choice. Once you get going I think you will find the process pretty simple, and rewarding to do.

One tip: make sure you have a good light so the ferrule installation can be inspected carefully before bolting down the hose end. The ferrules slide over the inner teflon liner, but under the outer stainless braid sheath. You need to make sure the ferrule is all the way onto the teflon - use a good light and magnifier as necessary. Again, once you get going this will be self explanatory.

Good luck

 

[UncleMike]

As a general rule Mike, you want one adjustable hose-end per tube assembly. This is not strictly necessary, but it makes life slightly easier to get the hose-end clocking angle just right.

Most GS bike brake lines use one straight hose-end and one that's angled in some way. This is just a general rule of thumb though, you should check your particular application to make sure this jives with what you want to do. Bottom line is to have the line lay in position without a bunch of bending stress in the tubing itself, the sharp bending should be in the hose-end.

It's slightly easier if the adjustable hose-ends are accessible for tweaking, as opposed to being attached to the splitter in front, or the master in rear. Fully tighten the non-adjustable hose end, then install the adjustable hose-end but don't fully snug it tight until it's laying on the bike and bolted up - this way you know the clocking is perfect.

Of course, there are all kinds of variations on the theme depending on personal choice. Once you get going I think you will find the process pretty simple, and rewarding to do.

One tip: make sure you have a good light so the ferrule installation can be inspected carefully before bolting down the hose end. The ferrules slide over the inner teflon liner, but under the outer stainless braid sheath. You need to make sure the ferrule is all the way onto the teflon - use a good light and magnifier as necessary. Again, once you get going this will be self explanatory.

Good luck

Thank you Ed. Do you think the fittings I listed above are correct for entering into the splitter/calipers up front?

That should screw right into the splitter/calipers at 10mmx1.0, right?

 

[Guest]

Ordered all my SS brake lines and fittings from Z1, fit like a glove.

 

[UncleMike]

Ordered all my SS brake lines and fittings from Z1, fit like a glove.

Don't doubt it, but it's also quite a bit more expensive than doing it yourself. Plus, they weren't sure about the fittings at the splitter/calipers either.

 

[Nessism]

Thank you Ed. Do you think the fittings I listed above are correct for entering into the splitter/calipers up front?

That should screw right into the splitter/calipers at 10mmx1.0, right?

I'm not sure about the thread size Mike. Could check later tonight for you though.

I've used Goodrich lines before and much prefer the Earl's type.

 

[UncleMike]

I'm not sure about the thread size Mike. Could check later tonight for you though.

I've used Goodrich lines before and much prefer the Earl's type.

That would be really helpful if it's not too much trouble. I just don't want to pull everything apart just to measure and put it all back together again. The 1150 is my only transport while I'm in NY.