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stage III & pods, front wheel stays on ground...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bribird
  • Start date Start date
B

Bribird

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Ok, so as most of you know I put the K&N's and the dynojet stage III kit on my 650. Before doing the kit I could be tudeling in first and yank the throttle and it would pull the front wheel up. I went for a ride today and the top end(above 7000) is great... it pulls hard all the way to redline. I have noticed that it does not seem to pull as hard off idle up to 6000-7000. I did I plug chop after banging it wide open and it looks great, so my main jet(DJ 160) choice is good. I am thinking I may need to fuss with the needle jet clip setting. It seems like it might be a touch on the lean side in the mid range. It is at the 3rd position from the top now. I was thinking about moving it to the 4th position and maybe putting one washer on top of the clip making it like half a notch of move.

My question is how much change is to be expected per notch move on the needle? Is this off idle/midrange change just how it is when you go to a dynojet and pods?
 
i don't know if it translates ... but i ended up setting my e clip on the 2nd slot up from the bottom, after starting leaner, on my recently installed stage 3 ( k&n pods and V&H pipe) 1100ez.
 
Hey truckah, ya I think that is where I need to be... or maybe one notch up from yours...I think the dynojet needles have 6 notches on them...so yours on on like 5 from the top and mine are at 3 right now.

The dynojet kit said to not touch the pilot jet....but doesnt the pilot jet take you from idle up to the midrange....like 3000 or so?? I am wondering if maybe I need to go up a size on the pilot along with moving the e clip down a notch on the needles??
 
Bribird said:
Hey truckah, ya I think that is where I need to be... or maybe one notch up from yours...I think the dynojet needles have 6 notches on them...so yours on on like 5 from the top and mine are at 3 right now.

The dynojet kit said to not touch the pilot jet....but doesnt the pilot jet take you from idle up to the midrange....like 3000 or so?? I am wondering if maybe I need to go up a size on the pilot along with moving the e clip down a notch on the needles??
Click to expand...

another problem may simply be that you have less torque with the pods and exhaust which is what happens with most cars that I have worked on, because of severl reasons one being less back pressure.
 
lower range of rpms is your float bowl setting, needle clip for mid range is genereally just up one notch to lower the needle
 
on the fourth slot down my bike was still too lean low-mid rpm, the 5th one down cured it. stock pilot jet.
 
Hey guys, thanks. I guess I will have tinker around with the needle position this weekend. I will leave the pilot alone.
 
Your 650 picks up the front wheel, really?:eek: From just power, like a power wheelie??
Good on you, bud, my 750 wont do that. Maybe if i revved it up and dumped the clutch:confused:
 
LOL!, well it did before I did the pods and the jet kit. It did not do it the way my V65 Magna does it, but ya...if you yanked the throttle and it was rolling in first at like 2000 rpm or so, it would do a little yank:D. Not anymore:(. I think it may be a trade off for the upper end power it has now with the pods and dynojet, which I guess is ok....as I dont really like doin wheelies anyways. My magna has caught me off guard more than a few times with that. After I built the magna and drove it around the parking lot the first time....it scared the crap out me. I did not get back on it again for over a week, and gave selling it some serious thought. But I am ok with it now:D
 
Pods and jet kit/pipe etc are going to lend you less torque in the low RPMs in exchange for more overall power in the top end. This is likely your problem. Having said that, if your power wheely-ing a shafty, your carbs were probably set slightly rich to begin with, and the result is throttle "snatch" *snicker* yes...i said it. Basicly, youve set the carbs up to the point where wacking the throttle is causing the drive train to grab hard in response, rather than smoothly. This is fun, but its bad on a shaftie....ask me how I know...
 
LOL..he said snatch. You are probably dead on with that..... After I built the motor I did set the carbs up on the rich side....but not too much, I was playing on the safe side during the motor break in. Now as far as the colortune goes...it is a perfect mix. I think now I am a bit lean thru the midrange and then at the upper revs it goes back to a good mix. So I think I will try raising the needle up a notch and see what that does for me in the midrange. Does doing that make the top end come in sooner?? Or just richin the midrange??

He said snatch....:p
 
Bribird said:
LOL..he said snatch. You are probably dead on with that..... After I built the motor I did set the carbs up on the rich side....but not too much, I was playing on the safe side during the motor break in. Now as far as the colortune goes...it is a perfect mix. I think now I am a bit lean thru the midrange and then at the upper revs it goes back to a good mix. So I think I will try raising the needle up a notch and see what that does for me in the midrange. Does doing that make the top end come in sooner?? Or just richin the midrange??

He said snatch....:p
Click to expand...
Doesnt necessarily make it come sooner, just puts the powerband more to that side of the scale. I guess in reality, it would almost in a sense make it come later. These bikes were pretty good about being set up with a mild curve in the powerband. Some models more so than others. Try shimming the needle before moving it up a full clip. This can be achieved with some washers you can pick up at Radio Shack that will fit over the needle and down into the bore in the slide. I cant remember the diameter, but do a search, lots of people have tried it to liven up stock bikes and it works. I did it with my big 1100G, and it got rid of that lil dead spot around 6K. Usually about 3-4 of those washers is a full clip size so try using two to get basicly a half clip move.
 
thanks kid, I will give it a goin thru. I will try the washers first and if it makes it better I will try going up a full notch, and see if it still gets better. I will just sneak up on perfect a half notch at a time. Then when I go to far...I will just back up one. I got some washers, some came with the dynojet kit and I have some more from a couple other BS32 carb setups.

Thanks,
Bri
 
Ok so I was cleaning up the bike and getting ready to mess with the needle setting on the carbs, when I noticed the pods looked a tad bit white... I sprayed them down with the K&N oil and let them sit for about an hour. Fired the bike up and took it for a ride. The power difference in the midrange was pretty noticable. It started the intake growl around 4000 rpm and pulled pretty hard up thru the revs. I did not oil the pods when I put them on cause it said they were pre-oiled, but just barley apparantly. They are also a much darker red than when I got em. So I think I am gonna leave the needle setting alone. Every plug chop I have done today has come out looking like normal combustion....so yay. Time to stop tinkering and start riding I guess.
 
I was goona say, I bet I could roll the throttle to 9000 RPM and pop the clutch and my front end wouldn't come up. The way the weight is distributed on my G it would smoke the back tire before it raised the front end.
 
I think you traded lower-end power for the high-end power with the pods and exhaust...
 
AOD said:
I think you traded lower-end power for the high-end power with the pods and exhaust...
Click to expand...

Fundamentally, yes, that is the tradeoff. With pods and 4 into 1 my bike doesn't pull for s**t until about 4000 and doesn't really start to roar until between 5000 and 6000.
 
After I went to velocity stacks, and got the jetting done, it won't pull the front wheel up high, from a slow rpm throttle-twist; but, it does lift it nicely in 2nd gear if you stay in it.
 
Bribird said:
Ok so I was cleaning up the bike and getting ready to mess with the needle setting on the carbs, when I noticed the pods looked a tad bit white... I sprayed them down with the K&N oil and let them sit for about an hour. Fired the bike up and took it for a ride. The power difference in the midrange was pretty noticable. It started the intake growl around 4000 rpm and pulled pretty hard up thru the revs. I did not oil the pods when I put them on cause it said they were pre-oiled, but just barley apparantly. They are also a much darker red than when I got em. So I think I am gonna leave the needle setting alone. Every plug chop I have done today has come out looking like normal combustion....so yay. Time to stop tinkering and start riding I guess.
Click to expand...

What are you at for settings now? Im doing the same thing but need to wait tell I get exhaust to really tune it all in. 160 mains and 3rd clip position? I think Im at the 3rd clip but with two washers under the clip. It looks rich at idle but its 35 degrees here now. I know the same settings wont work for my setup most likely but I was just curious.
 
Hey mpls, ya mine is set at the third clip from the top with the 2 washers under the clip, 160 mains. You should be able to adjust your base mixture with the mixture screws. I used the colortune plug to do mine. But I think they are all around 2 1/2 to 3 turns out.
 
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