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Stalling at Idle does not restart

  • Thread starter Thread starter curtie94
  • Start date Start date
When the bike stalls the plugs are golden brown and dry.

I ran it on the on position and when it stalled I left the bike for a few minutes and when I came back it started right up.

So that makes me cross out fuel flow because it got no more fuel after it stalled.

If it was an idle circuit it would act that way all the time at idle.

I'm going to ride it a little bit tomorrow and see what happens.

The intake boots are good and the o rings are new.
 
Could fuel level cause my problems.

As in float height. If I have the floats set wrong would it stall.
 
Well. I just pulled the carbs and found a broken fuel screw.

Would that cause stalling and then hard starts?
 
curtie94 said:
Well. I just pulled the carbs and found a broken fuel screw.

Would that cause stalling and then hard starts?
Click to expand...

No, bike should run ok at idle on two cylinders- this business about letting it sit after stalling episode and it restarting is odd. To recap, at the moment it stalls, you've checked for spark, and fuel in bowls and determined that you have both?
 
curtie94 said:
Well. I just pulled the carbs and found a broken fuel screw.

Would that cause stalling and then hard starts?
Click to expand...

If the broken tip is still jammed in the tiny little port, ... YEAH.

Tom suggests that the bike would still run on two cylinders, but that assumes a proper carb sync in the first place.

.
 
Yes when it stalls I have both spark and fuel in the bowls.

I pulled the bowls off today and I halso had a partially plugged pilot jet in cyl 2. so I had tow cylinders that where not getting as much fuel.

I pulled the plugs today as well and two of them where black. 3&4 where black 1&2 where light brown. Cyl 1 had the broken fuel screw and Cyl 2 had the plugged pilot jet.

I know the carbs are synced but if the tip of the fuel screw was broken when I did the sync would it throw it off?

I had to use a pick to remove the old tip, so yes it was still stuck in the carb body.
 
You say you had a partially clogged pilot jet. Did you do a PROPER cleaning of the carbs? If the cleaning process was done correctly then there is no reason for a clogged pilot jet. Sounds to me like that's a step that was missed. My suggestion is to start with a fresh rebuild, set the float heights and then re-sync the carbs. Don't try to skip the rebuild part. You'll be chasing your own tail for a long time otherwise.
 
I did strip and dip the carbs. I actually have done it twice. Once last summer and then again this winter. Maybe I missed something last time.
 
I can see it running like cr@p with broken off mixture screws and plugged carbs, but this offers no good reason for why it idles ok for a while and then dies/no restart stuff. Or why it eventually starts after recess.
I'm wondering if your ignitor is not triggering plugs on time, i.e. starts out ok, but then timing goes wrong after some running.
 
The previous owner swapped the bike to points.

Unless the points are dirty?

I'll file the points and try it again.
 
How did you confirm a "partially clogged" pilot jet? My concern is that if the pilot jet it self was clogged, it may indicate other passages within the pilot and needle circuits aren't completely clean either.
 
curtie94 said:
I did strip and dip the carbs. I actually have done it twice. Once last summer and then again this winter. Maybe I missed something last time.
Click to expand...

Stripping and dipping the carbs isn't good enough. You have to take a fine wire and probe every tiny opening in the carb bodies and assorted jets. Only when they are all clear and clean are you ready for reassembly.

Do it right the first time through and save some heartache and unnecessary time and labor later...
 
I could only see a little light through the pilot jet. SO I cleaned it with a wire and I also checked for flow though all the circuits through the carbs, everything else seemed good.

I rode it a bit tonight 35F, it was cold. But I noticed a slight hesitation on take off and when I would come to a stop the revs would hang at 2500-2000rpms for a second then drop back to idle. But I was afraid to let it idle because I though it might stall.

Here is something I noticed, after it stalls if I start it back up with starting fluid it when I try to rev it out the revs only get to about 6-7000 rpms then its starts bouncing around not revving any higher. It seems like a rev limiter which I know I don't have.

I think ill look into the points a bit tomorrow.

Before the bike does stall it will faulted quite a bit. It will be idling at 1200rpms just fine then all of a sudden it will drop to 900rpms, then bounce back to 1200 and be fine then it will happen again then finally stall.

What about a condenser that is getting hot? Could I run a couple of external condensers and see how it runs? Could a bad condenser even act this way?
 
curtie94 said:
The previous owner swapped the bike to points.

Unless the points are dirty?

I'll file the points and try it again.
Click to expand...

Points? Condensers? The plot thickens! The condensers could be heating up and shorting, causing poor spark till they cool down. Unusual but possible and I'm desperate to blame this on electrical
problem.
 
Let me ask one more question.

If I have the key on and the plug wire about a 1/4" from the cylinder head and I manually open the points should I get a spark every time?
 
Points are the first thing you should check. We've all got out the habit of it, but it used to be ingrained in us. Points, condenser, plugs and leads. Condensers are notorious for breaking down - especially in the hostile environment of engine heat, and it's surprising they last as long as they do. They rarely get changed, especially back in the day, when a set of OEM points and condenser would set you back a fair whack in your pocket.
 
I ordered a set of new points and condensers.

But today I decided to take a heat gun to the condensers and after about 30 seconds the bike started to faulter and it stalled and acted the same way.

So I guess thats my problem.

Im going to go back after the bike out after I let the bike sit for a bit to cool down and see if it will start, if it does ill kill it and heat the condensers and see if it starts after.
 
It would be nice to have closure to this thread! Even nicer if this snow disappears ASAP - my bike needs to find road and I need 50 degrees F again.
 
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