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Start button hard to push '82 GS450L

  • Thread starter Thread starter Strick
  • Start date Start date
S

Strick

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I just got through completing a low level restore on an '82 GS 450L. I had to buy an Ebay right control, because the stater button was broke on the original. The bike is going to be first bike for a small female rider. The starter button has to be pushed very firm to engage the starter. Is there any trick to making the button engage sooner with light(er) pressure? All I have done (so far) is spray electrical contact cleaner in it, and once dry - silicone spray lubricant.

Thanks guys!
 
Hiya Strick and welcome!

I had a similar issue with my starter button by the sounds of it and the problem won't be that it's stiff but rather that the contacts are disgustingly dirty.

The only way to fix it properly is dismantle the right hand control and clean them thoroughly with the contact cleaner directly on there rather than just spraying it in. The lube probably won't help much.

Contact cleaner directly on the parts and wipe the gunk off with a rag is the best bet. Mine came up nice and shiny and she starts every push of the button now :)

The button moves very little before it contacts which is why I think it's not stiff as such... there's really not enough movement for it to be stiff unless of course someone has replaced the spring with a stiffer one...
 
Some fine sandpaper on the contacts can't hurt either.

Take it apart inside a plastic bag, little bitty parts may go flying.
 
Thanks guys! I will pop it apart and do some cleaning!

Also....any front brake switch advice. The rear brake light works with the rear brake pedal, but not the front lever.

Thanks again!
 
Strick said:
Thanks guys! I will pop it apart and do some cleaning!

Also....any front brake switch advice. The rear brake light works with the rear brake pedal, but not the front lever.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

SAme thing, take it apart and clean the contacts. There's an adjustment too, made by sliding the switch back and forth, get it working right before you tighten it down.
 
As has been stated, fully disassemble and clean. Assemble with generous amounts of dielectric grease. I like to use grandma's copper pot cleaning trick: slice of lemon with salt to scrub the contacts clean. Fine sandpaper also works great as tkent said.

I don't have a pic of my 750's front brake switch, but if yours is the same note that it can be reassembled two ways. If you get it backwards the slider will not hit the two rails like it's supposed to when the lever is pulled. On mine, the spring that pushes on the slider had rusted through. Trying to scrounge a quick and dirty replacement, I found a section of the flint spring to be close enough to the right size:

37.jpg
 
To be honest I hated that switch on the stock control... that was one thing I was glad to see the end of when my master cylinder was beyond repair...

If you want an alternative, you can get a brake switch actuated via a banjo bolt...

Oh... and we need to see some pic's of that 450... especially if it's that yellow tracker style one in your avatar ;)
 
pete said:
To be honest I hated that switch on the stock control... that was one thing I was glad to see the end of when my master cylinder was beyond repair...

If you want an alternative, you can get a brake switch actuated via a banjo bolt...

Oh... and we need to see some pic's of that 450... especially if it's that yellow tracker style one in your avatar ;)
Click to expand...

Yep, that's my tracker. Every nut and bolt was taken off that bike and punched it out to 540, powder coated the frame, threw on the XR tail and number plate headlight and there she is. It sure gets a lot of talk at bike nights.

I will take a pic of the 450 as soon as the seat is done. I think it looks pretty cool lowered about 2 1/2 inches. The gal who will be riding it is pretty short.

Thanks for all the tips on the electrical. I will start yanking more things apart :mad:
 
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