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Starter Clutch Gear does not free turn.

  • Thread starter Thread starter c&c
  • Start date Start date
C

c&c

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Just lapped my starter clutch hub and replaced with a new starter clutch but the big starter gear does not free turn clock wise.

Did I lap to much?
What did i do wrong?
 
Does it spin when off the engine or you talking about when its all torqued up on the shaft?
 
It should only turn free in one direction as far as I know

Yes and that direction is clockwise. The new starter clutch gear does not turn freely.
Could it be that I lapped the hub to much?

I'll install the old one and see.
 
if you have wear on the crank and or rotor taper....
when tightened it will pull past it's original location and make the large C/S gear direct drive(no free spin).
this is common on a damaged 80-82 crank snout.
 
if you have wear on the crank and or rotor taper....
when tightened it will pull past it's original location and make the large C/S gear direct drive(no free spin).
this is common on a damaged 80-82 crank snout.

Which means i'm f#$ked?
The damaged was not heavy just the upper part of the taper, maybe 1/4. Unless the PO had relapped it?
If I put some locktite on the taper it will add a layer?
How do you fix this?
 
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If it does not turn freely in one direction, you have a problem. Blower is right as usual. Sounds like you are going to have to learn to bump start... I did that for a while. You get good at finding hills to park on. The locktite idea worked for a while on mine.
 
will the large gear spin clockwise if you don't impact the crank nut down?
i mean if you just snug it with a wrench or ratchet?
if this is the case then the rotor i believe is going to deep on the crank and making the C/S gear direct drive.
is the crank damaged or the rotor or both?
sometime's installing an undamaged rotor can fix this(band-aid) plus red loctite on the taper.
 
Did you remember to install the bronze washer that goes on the crank first, behind the gear? Ray.
 
will the large gear spin clockwise if you don't impact the crank nut down?
i mean if you just snug it with a wrench or ratchet?
Yes it moves but you feel resistance.!
if this is the case then the rotor i believe is going to deep on the crank and making the C/S gear direct drive.
is the crank damaged or the rotor or both?
Just the 3ed quarter. The rest was undamaged.
sometime's installing an undamaged rotor can fix this(band-aid) plus red loctite on the taper.
I'll reinstall the old Starter Clutch and see. I don't have a spare rotor.

Which metal is stronger the Rotor or the shaft?

I knew I should have put this reaper off till winter.:mad:
 
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you do have the bronze washer next to the main bearing like ray asked?
the rotor and crank both are soft and both usually gets damaged at the same time.
 
the rotor and crank both are soft

The rotor hub and the crank shaft are soft metal?
I would have guessed the crank shaft to be allot more resistant then the hub.

If only the hub is softer then replacing it with a new one could solve the problem,
 
I got it to work by removing the plate that is between the the Rotor and the starter clutch. I polished the surface.

Ill be going for a ride later on tonight. To test things out.
 
hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
that plate let's the rollers/springs/plungers be kept contained and to have a place to slide on.
 
hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
that plate let's the rollers/springs/plungers be kept contained and to have a place to slide on.

Yes but the rotor back is suited also for this.

Any way I installed the new starter clutch without the plate, it works. :)

I would have to find a washer shim, to put between the starter clutch and the starter gear to close the light gap.
All of this to figure out if it was my starter clutch that was making the noise. Noise is still there. Ill go post in my original thread.
 
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Yes but the rotor back is suited also for this.

Any way I installed the new starter clutch without the plate, it works. :)

.

Lets tell someone at Suzuki we dont need that plate. must have been a scam, :twistedevil:
 
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