Starter Clutch Problem (with pics)

[OriginalOwner]

1981 GS750E

I just started getting the dreaded/intermittent free-wheeling starter motor. It's happened 3 or 4 times in the last 20 pushes of the starter button.

The starter clutch is new territory for me, I've never been here before.

I've searched the forums but don't totally understand everything -- but I did learn that breaking that bolt off of the crank is probably the single biggest challenge in wrenching on the GS family of Suzuki motorcycles.

Some users were talking about a common starter clutch problem -- that the "three bolts" needed to be tightened -- but I'm not sure what they're referring to as I don't see any?

I have no teeth missing from any of the gears. I read to check if the one gear free-wheels in one direction and locks in the other -- mine does that okay.

But I do notice what appears to be a crack on the clutch -- it is shown is the second picture and it's position is annotated in the first.

I will keep digging and see what I find.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Picture No. 1

 

[OriginalOwner]

Picture No. 2

 

[markb]

I believe the 3 bolts are there, you just can see the end of the bolt, the OTHER end. see the 3 ends between each 2 circles, to get to them you have to remove that magneto/flywheel thing. those 3 bolts hold the gear to the back of the mag/fly thing.

 

[markb]

also, just cause in your hand the one way works, doesn't mean it can hold up to the amount of torque that the starter puts up to it, so it will freewheel under starter power, but will feel good by hand. I had a Polaris predator 500 starter one way feel like this. what a pita that job was.

also, take this with a grain of salt, I haven't torn my motor down yet, I am just going by what I have seen when working on stuff in the single thumper atv stuff.

 

[OriginalOwner]

I believe the 3 bolts are there, you just can see the end of the bolt, the OTHER end. see the 3 ends between each 2 circles, to get to them you have to remove that magneto/flywheel thing. those 3 bolts hold the gear to the back of the mag/fly thing.

Thanks.

So, that would obviously entail removing that crank bolt -- the one marked with the number 7.

Is that the one that everyone dreads? Or is it further in?

Can I just take off old number 7 with my air rattle gun?

What do you suggest?

 

[markb]

yes, it has to come off. I don't know if thats the one everyone dreads, but if you break it off, its gonna suck on any motor...

ive used air gun for removal, but when putting back on, no air gun, and you torque it down to spec.

 

[Guest]

Tons of threads on this issue.. use the search function. The center bolt has to come off. There is also a puller that will help get the rotor off so you can check the 3 metal dowels and springs... If it is stuck, a little heat helps... I had to use mapp gas torch to get mine off. Others fall off in their hand.
Curt

 

[OriginalOwner]

Tons of threads on this issue.. use the search function. The center bolt has to come off. There is also a puller that will help get the rotor off so you can check the 3 metal dowels and springs... If it is stuck, a little heat helps... I had to use mapp gas torch to get mine off. Others fall off in their hand.
Curt

I searched "starter clutch" and read at least 50 threads -- they were mostly involved with specific issues and problems users encountered while completing the job but no general instructions.

Even my Clymer shop manual is vague concerning this repair.

I got the nut off but I'm not sure what to do next?

Know of any tutorials?

 

[markb]

if its like other stuff i worked on, you need a flywheel puller

skip to 1:40 on this video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zo5caKALso
it should be very similar, you can search for the flywheel puller online.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Also just because you can see the bolt threads Doesn't mean the bolt heads are there !!!

 

[TeamDar]

Is it just me or in picture 2 do I see a crack/break in the starter clutch body next to the rotor?

 

[OriginalOwner]

Is it just me or in picture 2 do I see a crack/break in the starter clutch body next to the rotor?

Yeah you do. I'm thinking that's not supposed to be there.

if its like other stuff i worked on, you need a flywheel puller

skip to 1:40 on this video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zo5caKALso
it should be very similar, you can search for the flywheel puller online.

markb> awesome. This video is starting to give me an idea about how this all works, thanks!

Need the right flywheel puller or a substitute bolt that'll do the job.

I'll keep searching but;

Dollars to donuts somebody here knows what size bolt I need.

ray:

 

[blowerbike]

Is it just me or in picture 2 do I see a crack/break in the starter clutch body next to the rotor?

i didn't slide the picture over earlier...just did and i see a crack.
crack is bad!

 

[markb]

i am not sure it can be any bolt. it has to be the hardeded stuff like the difference between a regular socket, and an impact gun socket.

they are not that expensive, check out vendors here or ebay.

 

[OriginalOwner]

i didn't slide the picture over earlier...just did and i see a crack.
crack is bad!

Say no to crack.

Hey blowerbike> I just read a thread from 2010 about making/buying tool to pull the flywheel where you said, "i'm still not sure why a person would make a slide hammer when a bolt and a torch would do the job..."

What did you mean? How's that work?

Cause I'd like to not wait on a a puller if I can make one quicker.

 

[OriginalOwner]

i am not sure it can be any bolt. it has to be the hardeded stuff like the difference between a regular socket, and an impact gun socket.

they are not that expensive, check out vendors here or ebay.

K - thanks.

I think part of the problem I'm having is the various names (flywheel, rotor, stater, starter clutch, magneto, alternator etc.) for the part to be pulled.

What would you search for when trying to find the tool?

 

[markb]

its M16x1.5 RH.
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0027-Flywheel-M16X1-5/dp/B000WJC0U2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

i am pretty sure thats what you need.

 

[blowerbike]

Say no to crack.

Hey blowerbike> I just read a thread from 2010 about making/buying tool to pull the flywheel where you said, "i'm still not sure why a person would make a slide hammer when a bolt and a torch would do the job..."

What did you mean? How's that work?

Cause I'd like to not wait on a a puller if I can make one quicker.

you will be pushing the rotor off.
i'm not sure on the bolt you need but i believe someone posted a link above me...
go to a hardware store and buy a bolt and add a spacer between the bolt and crank and push your rotor off.
your rotor has threads on the inside...you'll see them after you remove the center bolt.

 

[OriginalOwner]

you will be pushing the rotor off.
i'm not sure on the bolt you need but i believe someone posted a link above me...
go to a hardware store and buy a bolt and add a spacer between the bolt and crank and push your rotor off.
your rotor has threads on the inside...you'll see them after you remove the center bolt.

Yep, I see them. They're a touch bigger than the bolt that holds the "rotor."

So, if I knew the correct size, I could screw the bolt in and it'll stop on the crankshaft, thereby pushing off the "rotor."

The "spacer" you speak of is to protect the crankshaft from the bolt and could be something as simple as the right sized washer, right?

A washer that fits perfectly in so the bolt doesn't mash-up the face of the crank. Correct?

 

[OriginalOwner]

its M16x1.5 RH.
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0027-Flywheel-M16X1-5/dp/B000WJC0U2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

i am pretty sure thats what you need.

Yeah markb, I think you're correct. Although when I enter my bike's specifics on that particular ebay site, it says,

This does not fit your: 1981 Suzuki GS750E


HOWEVER, other sites that carry it, site the exact same Motion Pro stock number, 08-0027 -- so, they're probably just having problems with that site.

Thanks for your help, much appreciated.