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starter clutch

  • Thread starter Thread starter jdmae92
  • Start date Start date
J

jdmae92

Guest
I posted a week or two ago about my missing starter clutch gear. I got a new gear and got it all together and tried to start it today. I didn't keep it running for long but when it started and ran for a few seconds it sounded like the starter clutch was still engaged. There was a higher pitched whining sound when the engine was running. Do i need to rebuild the starter clutch or get a new one or is there something else that could be wrong with it?
 
Any chance one of the two thin washers that fit over the idle gear shaft fell down? Happened to me many years ago when I didn't know about the washers. One came off and slid slowly through the cold/thick oil until it settled right between the gears. Started it up and heard a whirring/whining noise like you described and the noise went "up and down" with the rpm's. Took off the cover and there it was lodged between the gears.
 
That may have been why it was missing!!! See if you can manually turn the idler gear in both directions, Or neither direction = failed clutch. Should only turn one way
 
If you remove the idle gear and washer's you can spin the clutch gear. It should turn freely clockwise with your finger. Now if you try to turn the clutch gear counter-clockwise it should lockup on the crank.

If it's locked up when going clockwise then something is not right with the 3 roller or springs. If you bang the starter clutch around when it off the crankshaft the roller's/springs can pop out and cause problems. Alot of times just trying to tighting the 3 bolts and bumping it around too much may do it.

Got to slow and smoooooooooth
 
If it is locked up is the only option to rebuild? Thanks for the replys
 
Has the starter clutch assy ever been off the crankshaft??
You'll need a special puller that screws on to remove it from the crankshaft.
 
I, too, would think the most likely problem is a fallen washer.

Should you also find a problem with the starter clutch you do need a tool to remove it. Whilesome have succeeded without the special tool, I needed it, and had a hard time getting it.

Found one at an unlikely-named placed called partsmanual.com

You have to search the site, but it is there. I think the cost was $40.
 
Well I took the bolt off the end of the crank to remove the starter clutch and flywheel. I was going to try and take the flywheel off without the special tool so i had the slide hammer ready but the flywheel just kinda fell off the end of the crank. It looks like someone put anti-seize on the tapered part of the crank and inside surface of the flywheel so the flywheel spun on the crank chewing up the inside surface of the flywheel and the crank. It must have worn down quite a bit because when the bolt is tightened to the proper torque the flywheel presses up against the large starter clutch gear so i doesn't move. I am going to buy a used flywheel to see if it will hold on the crank but it might be too chewed up. If that doesn't work I will just have to kick start it but will it be safe if the flywheel happens to come loose all of a sudden?
 
That doesn't sound good. Any chance you can post a picture?

It took two special tool, two blokes, half an hour of heating the unit up with a hair drier to get my starter clutch off! The bolts are normally stuck on with thread lock and torqued up to between 65-72ft/lbs.

Hows the crankshaft taper look? Can it be salvaged or is it Kn**kered?

Suzuki Mad
1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
GSF1200K1
 
This is definitely not good.

The crank and flywheel/rotor go together dry. The friction is what keeps them rotating together.

Sadly, the no-seize compound defeated that, and obviously damage has resulted.

You will have to make the assessment, or, as suggested, you can post pictures. Try to get them as clear as possible, meaning use a higher resolution, so everyone can see the detail. Photograph the crank and the rotor.


Do not buy the second rotor yet. Wait for other opinions, because if the crank is too badly damaged you may have to replace it, as well as the rotor. A complete engine could be cheaper.
 
Ok, I'll hold off on buying the new rotor. Ill try to get some pictures soon. If the crank is too far gone it looks like this bike is gonna be in for a full restoration/cafe racer treatment.
 
I haven't been able to get any pictures yet but I have some questions. Is the crank a harder material than the rotor? It looks like the gouges on the crank could be metal that came off the rotor but I'm not sure.
 
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