starter or starter clutch?

[Anonymous]

First time post.

I have a 81 GS750EX and I cannot get bike to crank over. I'm almost positive starter is turning I can hear something spinning. The bike was starting but something would spin and catch. I have checked the bolt that holds on the rotor/starter clutch and it is tight. Can the starter clutch/ rollers go bad? If it is the clutch what is the best way to remove the alternator rotor? Clymer says to use a slide hammer which I do not have but will get one if I have to.

 

[focus frenzy]

First look at the starter shaft and make sure that all the teeth are there and not worn down.

starter clutches do wear out from time to time, so if the starter is spinning but the crankshaft and rotor/starter clutch are not spinning then it is time for a new starter clutch.

I am not sure about the 750's but on the 850 to 1100 shafties a special adapter is required that ataches to a slide hammer and screws into the rotor bolt hole.

 

[Anonymous]

Dear Focus Frenzy,

The teeth on the starter post and idle gears look fine. Do the rollers, spring and push piece wear out or is it the entire starter clutch set? Is the starter clutch griping the crank or the gear that is behind the clutch?
Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

re: starter or starter clutch

re: starter or starter clutch

When I purched my bike, the starter clutch assembly had broken apart.

While you're checking the other suggestions, I must ask...
1) Is the engine turning over? If not, it could be the crank shaft or clutch bearings are worn. Or the bearings could be stuck in the open position
2) Do you hear a rattle when cranking? Bearings could have broken out of the clutch assmbly.
3) Were there metal shavings or peices inside the cover? Definately broken out bearings.

In any case, I'd pull everything apart and take a closer look. If there is a problem, just remember that you can replace each part individually. That's how I saved money. Although it still cost me about $250 for the clutch assembly.

 

[Anonymous]

Dear Focus Frenzy,

How can you call anyone DEAR who wears a hat like that???? :lol:

 

[kz]

How can you call anyone DEAR who wears a hat like that???? :lol:

Dear Scotty,
We learned that at English class at school, you could choose from Dear sirs, or Dear NN, whatever hat, so bigbill maybe is a foreigner or just old fashion polite. :wink:

 

[kz]

Dear Focus Frenzy,

The teeth on the starter post and idle gears look fine. Do the rollers, spring and push piece wear out or is it the entire starter clutch set? Is the starter clutch griping the crank or the gear that is behind the clutch?
Thanks

I had a problem with my starter clutch and one of the bolts was broken, due to the bolt was loose and finally broke.

The bike started as it should all the time but I had a rattling noise from the left side of the engine.

At that time a had to bye a *-*//@!##$ expensive rotor removing tool, but the tool is cheaper than a new alternator rotor... :wink:

The above goes for a GS 1150 1984, don't know if it complies with your bike. :?:

Can you push-start your bike?

 

[Anonymous]

To summarize the previous posts, there are a couple of possibilities. First, there are 3 bolts that attach the starte clutch to the flywheel. They may have sheared off, in which case you should be able to tell if you look closely behind the flywheel. Secondly, the flywheel may be spinning on the crankshaft, but if it's never been removed, I doubt it. Third, the starter clutch may not be engaging. You'll need to remove the flywheel to tell, but on my bike the clutch would skip once every now and then while I cranked it. There are 3 rollers inside the clutch which engage in only one direction, and these 3 rollers are pushed down by springs about the size of a ball point pen spring. These springs get old and get compressed, and may not engage the roller well, in my case 2 of the 3 springs had broken. You can buy replacement springs from Suzuki or just go to the hardware store and buy some 3/16" by 1-3/8" long x .016 compression springs. Or heavier gage, but only 3/16", (at least for my 1000)

No need to buy the expensive rotor puller. But you will need a set of Vise-Grip chain pliers to hold the flywheel from turning--I wrapped the outside of the flywheel with electrical tape to keep the chain from scratching the flywheel. And you'll need the bolt which screws into the center of the flywheel, I think mine was M16 which just happened to be the same size bolt that was on my Pittman arm puller. You can buy this bolt from Dennis Kirk by the way. Put a cheater pipe on the ViseGrips and the bolt and use lots of muscle...it'll come off.

 

[Anonymous]

Oh and btw, I would NOT recommend a slide hammer puller. You could damage the crank bearings!!

 

[kz]

Thanks for the summarize Nashville Bill, thats exactely what's I was tying to say.

I tried a lot of things but it was impossible to remove the alternater rotor/flywheel, so I ended up with the expensive removing tool.

But you will need a set of Vise-Grip chain pliers to hold the flywheel from turning--I wrapped the outside of the flywheel with electrical tape to keep the chain from scratching the flywheel.

That was a good tip,

I put in the fith gear and stepped on the foot brake to prevent the engine to turn, but was not completly happy whith the method for two reasons;

The cluth started to slip at a certain point and I was afraid to damage the crankshaft due to all the load went throug the crankshaft, but it worked so far.....

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah, I've tried using the rear brake, as well as jamming a rag between gear teeth, to keep the crank from turning. I was always nervous about damaging stuff. The Vise-Grips worked great. I used a 2 or 3 foot cheater pipe on them and they didn't slip.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks everyone, I got it fixed.

Well this time when I removed the alternator cover two pieces (outside metal shroud )of the starter motor fell on the floor. I purchased a flywheel remover ( nothing more that a special bolt ) tool. The flywheel ( this rotor is held on with a bolt not a nut ) has flat spots for a wrench and I was able to get it off. The solid cast part of the clutch had two cracks, both along the hole were you can insert a pin to hold the spring and plunger in place during assembly.

I found a used rotor/starter clutch assembly at Milwaukee Cycle Salvage, nice people, they checked to make sure it was the right size before I drove up.

nashville bill, on pg 134 of the Clymer manual it says to use a slide hammer and a special threaded adapter ( Suzuki part# 09930-33710 ) I'm glad I followed your advise, as I agree that this would have put a side load on the crank bearings. I guess you cannot always believe what you read.