Starter plate (starter omit)

[GSJimbo]

Would like to know how to convert my GS1100 to a remote starting system (starter cart), do you still use the stator and rotor (flywheel) or omit them, whats the procedure in doing this??

 

[Paul]

The way I've seen it done is to remove the stator & generator, discard the cover & fit a flat plate on the end of the crankcase. A hexagon nut is bolted on to the end of the crank, and the remote starter is pushed onto the nut to start the engine, then once the engine is running the starter is removed.
It's a little more complicated than I've outlined because the hexagon nut has to be fitted properly onto the taper on the crank. An oil seal has to be sourced and fitted around the end of the crank etc.

 

[Paul]

On eBay now:-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35595&item=2488271447

 

[GER144]

Jimbo, Paul pretty well nailed it. Basically take EVERYTHING off the end of the crank, and install the starter plate with a new gasket. With the starter nut that comes with the plate, make sure it's for the correct taper end. The early cranks ('80-'82) had the 25mm end, '83 to '86 had the 29mm end. That starter plate on ebay that Paul posted is the exact one I have. When I originally bought it, it came set up for the small 25mm end. Later when I updated my crank end to the larger 29mm end, I believe I had the seal holder machined larger and installed a larger seal.
The starter I use is a newer Dodge truck starter, with a home made plate, and a socket welded on to the end of the starter. It works great! Although I don't know for how long now as I now have the starter firing with 24 volts (2 batteries). I now have a much bigger motor and 12 volts will barely turn it over. I am also now using the Kosman motorplate that ties the engine to the left side of the frame, and has a 3" offset sprocket. Cool shit!