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Starting carb disassembly today

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Guest

Guest
Well guys wish me luck. Today Im going to begin disassembling the carbs, dipping them, cleaning them, and replacing the o-rings.
 
Just be sure to dip the carbs long enough to do the job. :o

How long has the bike been "not running"?

Although the directions on the can say "dip for 15 to 30 minutes", more than just a few of us believe it should say "dip for 15 to 30 HOURS". :eek:

.
 
The only thing I had problems with was seating the pilot screws. I screwed them in with a very light hand and the o-rings still got squashed.
Other than that its quite easy.
 
Steve, I had her running a few weeks ago just doing maintenance stuff and changing the o-rings that I got from cycleorings.com


Ive got the write up with pics so I think Ill do fine.

Only questions I will have is how to tune/sync the carbs without any special tool But, I havent looked around yet for it so it may be on cliffs site
 
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Sparky said:
Only questions I will have is how to tune/sync the carbs without any special tool But, I havent looked around yet for it so it may be on cliffs site
Click to expand...
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but you must have a CarbTune or similar manometer to balance (synch) the carbs.
Tuning is on BassCliff's website, just takes lots of patience.
 
Thats ok, I was just wondering, I know someone I can take it to.




BUT, now I have an issue.

The needle valve seat, (metal tube piece that the needle valve goes down into) has this little plastic piece with a domed shaped screen on it. In the pics in the write up it doesnt seem to have that little screen but The screen is slightly damaged on mine, a small hole in it. Will this hurt anything or do I need to try and find a replacement piece? And if so where?
 
In the pic it has been removed. It is a filter, so I am not sure you would want a hole in your filter, although the petcock also has one. The issue would be getting a particle in between the needle and the seat, negating the function of the needle and seat.
I looked on BikeBandit (certainly not the only source) and it appears to be part 50, 1047308.
 
thank you! also, how do you remove it? I dont want to break one of the others just trying to figure it out.
 
Sparky said:
thank you! also, how do you remove it? I dont want to break one of the others just trying to figure it out.
Click to expand...
Yep, that's a filter alright, it just snaps on there. Just take a thin blade, place it under the edge and pry it up.

.
 
awesome, thanks so much guys. Im taking a break in the AC while the parts soak. Everything looked pretty clean allready which I wasnt expecting. Just the outside of the carbs are kind of grungy looking. and WHOA! :eek: is that carb dip strong lol

Im going to give the dealership a call and see if they can order the part for me. I dont want to pay $6 in shipping for something that weights nothing lol
 
My shed still smells of carb dip 3 months after doing it. Course I haven't thrown the bottles away yet so maybe that's the reason.:-\\\
 
Sparky said:
awesome, thanks so much guys. Im taking a break in the AC while the parts soak. Everything looked pretty clean allready which I wasnt expecting. Just the outside of the carbs are kind of grungy looking. and WHOA! :eek: is that carb dip strong lol

Im going to give the dealership a call and see if they can order the part for me. I dont want to pay $6 in shipping for something that weights nothing lol
Click to expand...

Whether they look clean or not.....dip 'em for a day. I'm sure you know that there are teeny-tiny fuel passages that you can't see.

The carb dip is strong stuff and will keep for quite awhile. Pop the lid back on it and save it for the next set. It's also good for submerging valves in for a good cleaning. I did that on my valves, but, it was in the wintertime and it took a long time before they came clean. The carb dip works much better at warmer tempertures.:)
 
koolaid_kid said:
You are supposed to reseal the lids, not leave them off. ;)
Click to expand...

LOL...the bottles are empty and the stuff actually evaporated on us to the point it wasn't usable for anything else. Not sure why but it was interesting. :rolleyes:

Maybe I should actually try to stay in there for a little longer than 3 minutes to check them out. :cool:
 
I was wondering how hard the cab screws were to undo. I stripped about half of mine when I tried to take the varna apart. I heard someone on gsresources sold the hex head set of replacement screws.
 
which ones are you calling the cab screws? Did you mean carb screws? I know I had to cut a slot in a couple of them on the metal piece that all the carbs mount to as well as the ones holding the intake boots on but Ive got the bolts to replace them.

crappy part now is that I have to wait until next week to get that little filter part. But thats ok, Ive got other stuff to do and it saves me some money versus having it shipped.
 
alnmike said:
I was wondering how hard the cab screws were to undo. I stripped about half of mine when I tried to take the varna apart. I heard someone on gsresources sold the hex head set of replacement screws.
Click to expand...
If you mean the screws that hold the top (diaphram cover) and the fuel bowl on, you really need to (a) use an impact screwdriver to remove them, (b) throw them away, (c) replace them with stainless steel hex screws.
You need 4 M5x14 & 4 M5x16 per carb, for a total of 16 each for a 4 cylinder. You could use M5x16 for all of them with no appreciable loss, just some of the screws will stick out a bit.
If you can't find them here or locally, I picked some up at McMasters Carr for a really good price.
 
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I'm using a phone to type so sometimes drop letters or spell different words.

Yes those hex screw sizes are exactly what I needed. Thank you. Going to order the oring kit today.
 
well the carbs are all back together and ready to go aside from the #1 carb which is mounted to the rack and everything, just waiting for the replacement part to finish putting it together.

Now I get to deal with another problem. I got 2 of the intake boots off, The other screws need some more time soaking to avoid stripping them out. And one of them started to come out a couple of turns then the head snapped off the bolt. (HOORAY!!!!) Guess Ill pick up an easy-out or left handed bit tomorrow and see if I can squeeze a drill in there, battery box will probably have to come out.
 
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