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Starting issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter kylemanley1
  • Start date Start date
I read all through the manual and can't find anything on how to zero out the ohms. I did however perform the quick test after bike had been recharged from trickle charger.
Key off 13.3
Key on 12.2
Idle 12.32
2500 rpm 12.45
5k rpm 12.45
Key off 12.5
 
kylemanley1 said:
I read all through the manual and can't find anything on how to zero out the ohms. I did however perform the quick test after bike had been recharged from trickle charger.
Key off 13.3
Key on 12.2
Idle 12.32
2500 rpm 12.45
5k rpm 12.45
Key off 12.5
Click to expand...

OK you clearly have a problem and it doesn't seem to have changed since you swapped out the stator and I don't see as you changed the R/R. Can this be one of the 14 v.s. 18 pole stator issues that the 550's have?

I would say to remeasure the VAC leg to ground tests (with R/R disconnected) to see if you get zero.

If you have an old shunt R/R do the basic diode test and if that is good then the stator is just plain not charging. Poles wrong or shorted.
 
kylemanley1 said:
I find that test in the stator papers right?
Click to expand...

http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

I think the same basic tests are in the manual. You are trying to insure that the full wave rectifier bridge (consisting of 6 independent diodes) are all working. Working means that they block current in one direction and allow current to flow in the other. If that is the case then what ever the statro is doing will come to the battery voltage. If the battery voltage is down it is the stator not producing power.
 
If you have a diode test setting then normally will beep when positive biased not the other way. Read thd manual yo see what it says .
 
I still don't know if you somehow got yhe wrong stator in there? Did it ever charge znd he new one had same number of poles?

if you can't figure out if the r/ r is good you are stuck trying to figure if the stator is good . Seems like we have been here before.
 
You never did the vac leg to ground test, that was the most important. There must be a way to zero out hour ohm meter. What happens if you hold the probes together and switch it on . Does it auto range yo zero do you can then use it?
 
I didn't count the poles on new one before I put it in but old one has 18. As for the meter it starts at 0.L without touching and when I touch them it starts at 00.0 and climbs to 0.04. Same when I try what you asked (holding them then turning on). I'll try the vac leg to ground test now
 
posplayr said:
You never did the vac leg to ground test, that was the most important. There must be a way to zero out hour ohm meter. What happens if you hold the probes together and switch it on . Does it auto range yo zero do you can then use it?
Click to expand...

ACV leg to ground test at 5krpm
1-gnd= 39
2-gnd= 37
3-gnd= 31
 
kylemanley1 said:
ACV leg to ground test at 5krpm
1-gnd= 39
2-gnd= 37
3-gnd= 31
Click to expand...

IIRC, you are about the third guy that said they measured almost the identical thing 40VAC right across the board leg to ground. I think some of these guys just go away in disgust or we never really come to a conclusion that gets posted. Your voltages don't exactly match so I would say one way or another it is in fact grounded and killing your output which is why it doesnt charge.

I dont think you have much choice but to pull the stator, and compare it for poles to the one you pulled out.

You will have to look for physical inspection and you will be stuck with ohmmeter tests (which have not proven very well up to now) unless you try and rig up a light bulb or other dummy load tester before pulling it.

The center of a WYE wound stator has a neutral which is basically zero volts. It doesnt really matter as it should be floating and not connected to the engine.
If there was a short in this area it would explain similar 1/2 voltages on all leg to ground measurements. Something to inspect for. The center of the WYE has three wires crimped together.

This is just a wild guess at this point, but I would consider it is possible that these AC voltage readings (leg to ground) are possible when you have a stator/rotor pole mismatch without a short. I don't know how, but it is possible just given how often guys have that type of mismatch and have a similar type problem going round and round with VAC measurements.
 
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20150726_214252.jpg so I removed the stator and first thing I notice is where the insulation on wires is blown out a little and there is some wire exposed!!!!
 
I guess I should have inspected this thing better before I put it in but I was too damn excited to get the thing in there. Or is there a chance I did it to it installing it? I don't see how I could have made a whole like that and chewed through that wire without noticing. I tested ohms between each leg with stator off bike and got 00.8. Testing ohms with positive lead on each leg and ground to metal on stator I got nothing
 
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kylemanley1 said:
I guess I should have inspected this thing better before I put it in but I was too damn excited to get the thing in there. Or is there a chance I did it to it installing it? I don't see how I could have made a whole like that and chewed through that wire without noticing. I tested ohms between each leg with stator off bike and got 00.8. Testing ohms with positive lead on each leg and ground to metal on stator I got nothing
Click to expand...

Whatever chewed through that insulation was grounded. It is not there now.
 
Can't thank you enough for all your help. I guess my next step is to replace this stator
 
Last edited:
kylemanley1 said:
Can't thank you enoughall your help. I guess my next step is to replace this stator
Click to expand...

If the only damage is where you show, that looks like there is only one wire abraided. I would be tempted to make sure it is the only one, then just some shrink tube over the whole outer wrap. If you can get it under the wrap through the whole, maybe short piece over the individual wire.

Normally there should be little damage potential to that set of yellow wires unless you did not install the guard correctly or rushed the install so the wires did not run as they were intended from the factory.

If you chopped through even 25% of the strands at that one wire, I would toss it as it could get hot and burn. I guess it is just labor so, not much damage could happen other than the charging will quite again. Are the strands smashed or cut?
 
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The strands look cut through what I would say about 50% of that wire
 
kylemanley1 said:
The strands look cut through what I would say about 50% of that wire
Click to expand...

I guess you could experiment and solder it a bit at the cut, just not too much and put the shrink tubing over it and dont be surprised if you have to pull it again. Or you could get lucky and it lasts for a while till your SHUNT R/R burns it up again.
 
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