Starting Problem

[StrtLegal]

Having a problem with my 81 gs750. I was riding around the neighborhood, becuase the bike isnt registered yet, and accidentally nit the kill switch. Not really a big deal, so I stopped and tried to start the bike again but when I pushed the start button....nothing. So I rechecked everything, key, run switch, clutch....nothing. So I was forced to jump it to get it home. Now, does anyone know what might have happened? I was thinking either starter or blown relay? Does that sound right?

 

[BassCliff]

Hey howdy hey!

Hey howdy hey!

Hi Mr. StrtLegal,

Your starting issue could be a number of things; a shorted switch, a blown fuse, bad battery or other charging system issue. For these old bikes it is customary to clean every electrical connection in the entire wiring harness from the headlight bucket to the tail light, including the fuse holders. Replace all the fuses with fresh ones. Run a dedicated ground wire from the regulator/rectifier unit to the negative terminal of the battery. Check out the Stator Papers (link below). And now, here is the world's most dangerous mega-welcome! \\/

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your [/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]bike[/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif])! [/FONT]

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr.

And here are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.

***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Here are some extra links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

 

[anikmankar]

check

check

check the following...
1) When you press the start button ...what happens ? is there a clicking sound? no sound ?
- No sound : cehck the kill switch may be lose or dirty,, Check the relay may have gone for a toss.
- Click sound : that means the relay is ok..power is coming in but not cranking the starter. Check for loose wires at the starter end. Sometime if the starter has gone too hot it may have got jammed.

2) Take a nice thick wire (like the starter), jump the points over the relay. if the starter cranks - the relay may need replacing...

3) check battery...loose wire, fuse

 

[jbs80106]

next step to previous poster...

next step to previous poster...

If you get a click, use ur voltmeter and trace the voltage from the battery to the relay, and then coming out of the relay, and then going into the starter. Its likely that your starter motor is gunked up (yeah, technical term!) and needs a clean. Not a big job really. Some have had issues with needing to replace the brushes inside the starter. I didn't, just had to clean it out real good.

Start with your battery voltage. It takes a pretty good jolt to turn the starter motor. If you remove it from the bike, it spins like a friggin' top but when hooked in to the motor it its much harder to crank.

 

[twistedwankel]

Having a problem with my 81 gs750. I was riding around the neighborhood, becuase the bike isnt registered yet, and accidentally nit the kill switch. Not really a big deal, so I stopped and tried to start the bike again but when I pushed the start button....nothing. So I rechecked everything, key, run switch, clutch....nothing. So I was forced to jump it to get it home. Now, does anyone know what might have happened? I was thinking either starter or blown relay? Does that sound right?

If by "jump it" you mean you used jumper cables? That would indicate a weak battery or solenoid? If the kill switch were dirty or defective it still wouldn't start with a "jumper cable". Unless you "jumped" the solenoid to get the starter to spin? You might even have a dirty starter switch?

OR: If by "jump it" you mean you pushed it down a slope and popped the clutch in gear and it started with the ignition on that means that you could also have an issue with the starter itself AND the battery is weak but no problem with the kill switch as you are still getting spark.

Like it was all ready stated clean all the electric connections on the whole bike and get good ground connections before you ride it anywhere far away. Or your next "jumping" will be up and down in an angry motion. These bikes are quite reliable with some attention along the way.

 

[StrtLegal]

Thanks for all the suggestions....heres a pic of the beast...just cause

 

[duaneage]

make sure the starter solenoid is PROPERLY grounded. On bikes with painted parts this is a problem. I've seen many a starter problem be caused by lack of ground on the solenoid.

Run a wire from the - terminal of the battery to the metal of the starter solenoid and try it.