Stator and r/r question

[pistolpete]

Ok my bike decided to die halfway home from work the other day, After checking it out found the bike stopped charging. Did some diag, found stator is fried. Now i've replaced the R/R about a month ago with a electrosport unit and with the complete lack of customer service i'm not dealing with them again. Anyways my question is where is the best place to purchase a new reliable stator and regulator Rectifier? After reading several posts Posplayr pretty much has me convinced that a compufire series R/R is the way to go. Am i correct in thinking this?

 

[Guest]

r/r stator

r/r stator

I don't think there is anything wrong with the electro sport product, but if their support is bad I can understand your situation. When my stator and r/r needed replacing I bought them from Z1 and have had no problems since. That being said, I would consider the series if I should need a replacement in the future. Ray

 

[posplayr]

Ok my bike decided to die halfway home from work the other day, After checking it out found the bike stopped charging. Did some diag, found stator is fried. Now i've replaced the R/R about a month ago with a electrosport unit and with the complete lack of customer service i'm not dealing with them again. Anyways my question is where is the best place to purchase a new reliable stator and regulator Rectifier? After reading several posts Posplayr pretty much has me convinced that a compufire series R/R is the way to go. Am i correct in thinking this?

If you are using a shunt regulator then the stator may or may not burn up depending on how hard you ride the bike. Higher sustained RPM's means the stator is always putting out it's maximum and that burns it up. If you put-put around on short trips the shunt would be OK; get a Honda.

However if you are riding harder and have a history of burning up stators with your riding mix then going to a compufire SERIES with a new stator will probably solve most of the problem (doing the grounding and clean conenctions also). The Cycle electric 600 series are also SERIES somewhat cheaper but much larger.

I only say to replace them both at the same time as I got back (and pulled stator cover to check for a leak) from a 250 mile trip using a FET Shunt R/R and brand new Electrosport stator and my sator was brown already.

 

[pistolpete]

I do alot of thruway riding so my rpms are usually up there. I've been looking at a stator from dennis kirk and i.ve checked out z1, but where would i get a series R/R from?

 

[Richsuz]

I just ordered mine from Debrix.com. Still waiting for it, since it is an overseas shipping, but it Cost me $173 and with shipping to Central America A total of $204. Couldve bought the Honda 5 times over, but I want to make my bike better, too.

 

[pistolpete]

I just went to thier website and looked at there R/Rs but i'm confused as to wich one would be the one i would want?

 

[Richsuz]

IIRC Posplayr says that only the three phase works.

http://www.debrix.com/Voltage-Regulator-For-Compu-Fire-3Phase-System-p/cf55402-mca.htm

 

[pistolpete]

Ah I see. Thanks for the help. I'm ordering the stator today and I'll order the R/R next week. Hopefully i can get the bike back on the road for some fall riding.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

If you have the budget, the Compufire r/r should work great. If you don't have that kind of budget, send a PM to member duaneage for a great re-purposed Honda unit for about $45 shipped. I would also recommend a Rick's Motorsport Electrics stator (www.rickselectrics.com). You can buy them through a vendor like BikeBandit.com cheaper than direct. I've used duaneage's r/r units. I've also burned up an Electrosport stator and an RMStator stator. I'm using a Rick's unit now.

See my website for more information.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[pistolpete]

I just bought a rick's motorsport stator from dennis kirk and I don't want to have any more problems so i'm definitly getting the compufire R/R. I would rather spend a little bit more money now and know that it is going to be reliable. Luckily when my bike died I was only a couple miles from my house, I don't want to be cheap now and later be thirty miles from my house and have my bike crap out. It ain't cheap being cool and pushing my bike isn't cool.

 

[Rover]

Are all these GS's with 50,000 and more miles escaping these charging problems or were they periodically buying new R/R and stators?
This issue seems to keep coming up even with those who are the "guru's" and have done all the fixes.It seems discouraging.
Just want to get to the bottom of it.Are we at the bottom? lol

 

[tom203]

Are all these GS's with 50,000 and more miles escaping these charging problems or were they periodically buying new R/R and stators?
This issue seems to keep coming up even with those who are the "guru's" and have done all the fixes.It seems discouraging.
Just want to get to the bottom of it.Are we at the bottom? lol

Apparently, some folks are still using original 30 year old stators and r/r's - I just replaced my 81 stator ,but left the original r/r on, since it was working well. The stators are subject to alot of heat and heat gets worst as rpms go up- basically the ac frequency increases and adds to heat build up. No need to get discouraged- you just need to check output once in a while to ensure the charging system is working correctly. I'm skeptical of some of the aftermarket r/r's I've seen- the heat sinks seem too small. A member on here sells used honda r/r's ( actually Shindengen brand ) which have a robust heat sink and tend to be reliable- plus they have a sense wire to better monitor voltage output. These units are used on millions of bikes, atvs, snowmobiles. outboards, etc. Hey, all things wear out!

 

[Richsuz]

Are all these GS's with 50,000 and more miles escaping these charging problems or were they periodically buying new R/R and stators?
This issue seems to keep coming up even with those who are the "guru's" and have done all the fixes.It seems discouraging.
Just want to get to the bottom of it.Are we at the bottom? lol

For sure, we are not at the bottom. Its a common thing to fail in most brands that don't use alternators. I am looking four Honda VTR 250, and all have charging issues, two CDI failures. Both seem common ailements to this model.

Not enough data is available on the series r/r, but they make sense. What doesn't make sense is, if it is common knowledge that the shunt aproach is fault, then why are we still getting bikes built like that?

:-k

 

[posplayr]

IIRC Posplayr says that only the three phase works.

http://www.debrix.com/Voltage-Regulator-For-Compu-Fire-3Phase-System-p/cf55402-mca.htm

correct this is the only one made by Compufire that works. Any Cycle Electric 600 series is a SERIES R/R as well.

Voltage Regulator For Compu-Fire? 3Phase System

Number:CF55402
Manufacturer:Compu-Fire?

 

[posplayr]

Not enough data is available on the series r/r, but they make sense. What doesn't make sense is, if it is common knowledge that the shunt aproach is fault, then why are we still getting bikes built like that?

:-k

The technology for SERIES R/R's is relatively new (last 5 years). It has only become common place in the last few years as synchronous motor control and Green power conversion has become more ubiquitous.

At this point a motorcycle manufacturer is probably not in a big hurry to put in a more expensive replacement (SERIES R/R) for something that has a planned obsolescence (SHUNT R/R) which causes additional work/parts to be required at owner cost.

The series R/R are aftermarket devices for HD and are proven robust and have an excellent following in that sector. It is just the metric industry that knows nothing of the SERIES R/R's.

 

[posplayr]

Apparently, some folks are still using original 30 year old stators and r/r's - I just replaced my 81 stator ,but left the original r/r on, since it was working well. The stators are subject to alot of heat and heat gets worst as rpms go up- basically the ac frequency increases and adds to heat build up. No need to get discouraged- you just need to check output once in a while to ensure the charging system is working correctly. I'm skeptical of some of the aftermarket r/r's I've seen- the heat sinks seem too small. A member on here sells used honda r/r's ( actually Shindengen brand ) which have a robust heat sink and tend to be reliable- plus they have a sense wire to better monitor voltage output. These units are used on millions of bikes, atvs, snowmobiles. outboards, etc. Hey, all things wear out!

The primary determinant in whether your stator R/R lasts for 50,000 miles is if you put put around or drive it hard for extended periods.

Nearly all motorcycle changing systems with SHUNT R/Rs' are marginal at best and when pushed will result in a burnt stator. Some are better than others if they are able to disappate the heat in the stator which is a function of:

• rotor magnatisim
• heat conduction path efficency
• cooling oil flow to the stator (so keep oil level topped up).
• weak function of stator windings

That is on a good day with good connections. It goes down hill from there.

 

[tom203]

The primary determinant in whether your stator R/R lasts for 50,000 miles is if you put put around or drive it hard for extended periods.

Nearly all motorcycle changing systems with SHUNT R/Rs' are marginal at best

Well, sure, as I put put around at 2500 rpm I like/need a decent charging output; meanwhile you're at 7500 rpm , resulting in an ac frequency increase of three times. Fortunately your stator core is saturated- at some point counter emf fights back, but heat build up is fierce. Using the series r/r certainly makes sense- no argument there- but the shunt systems worked. The problem wasn't unknown to the engineers- yamaha and others used revolving field alternators to limit stator output just like our cars. They had their own set of issues; let's face it - we're dealing with a large rpm range here.

 

[bwringer]

Looks like JP Cycles stocks the Cycle Electric unit:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/382-744

And Dennis Kirk:
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...re=&catId=&productId=201017&leafCatId=&mmyId=

I mention these two specifically because they appear to show stock levels; many online stores leave you guessing as to when they might ship your part.


Also, FWIW, my GS850's stock stator lasted 102,000 miles. (Even when I rebuilt and installed a different engine, I re-used my original stator.) The stock R/R was working fine when I replaced it with a Honda R/R at about 45,000 miles, and I likewise cleaned all the connections on the bike pretty early on. In other words, the stator never experienced the strain that many do of coping with bad connections and other failures. More than 100,000 miles may be some sort of record...

 

[posplayr]

Looks like JP Cycles stocks the Cycle Electric unit:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/382-744

And Dennis Kirk:
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...re=&catId=&productId=201017&leafCatId=&mmyId=

I mention these two specifically because they appear to show stock levels; many online stores leave you guessing as to when they might ship your part.


Also, FWIW, my GS850's stock stator lasted 102,000 miles. (Even when I rebuilt and installed a different engine, I re-used my original stator.) The stock R/R was working fine when I replaced it with a Honda R/R at about 45,000 miles, and I likewise cleaned all the connections on the bike pretty early on. In other words, the stator never experienced the strain that many do of coping with bad connections and other failures. More than 100,000 miles may be some sort of record...

Did your stator show any evidence of excessive heating?