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Stator debate(or)

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS(X)400
  • Start date Start date
G

GS(X)400

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So i think i need a new stator. My current one (pics coming) Is showing signs of burning although its not completely black. I have already replaced my R/R with a Honda RR for a cbr1000 since the origonal was getting supper hot why i first bought the bike.

Putting the price difference asside and looking only at quality or REP

I find i am torn between the :

elctrosport version
http://www.electrosport.com/street-...suzuki-gs450-gs500e-gs550-gs650-gs750e-2.html

and a caltric

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Stator-Suzuk...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4153fc7a55&vxp=mtr


I have herd bad things about the service are repair of both companies and and electro has had some bad rep to although that seems more from the r/r units.

Thoughts?
 
I will also add I have seen some on EBAY that look like they are in good condition. IE no blacking on the coating but again there is a risk there (I did find one with free shipping for 75 bucks)
 
GS(X)400 said:
I will also add I have seen some on EBAY that look like they are in good condition. IE no blacking on the coating but again there is a risk there (I did find one with free shipping for 75 bucks)
Click to expand...
I've got two used stators off ebay that looked and tested good (one was installed last Sept)- paid less than $20 for each. Shipping might be a big cost for you- how about RMstator in Vermont? maybe you could slip over the border!
Caltric seems to be flooding the market these days with good pricing- Basscliff has been using one happily for a year or so.
ES stuff leaves me with indigestion- I particularly dislike the color coating to cover the crime scene; unless you drop the stator, this has no advantages and is likely a heat trap.
 
I haven't heard many good things about the Electrosport stators. They're overpriced and overwound, which makes more power (sounds good in theory) but that means more power gets shunted back to the stator... Which gets it hotter and makes it burn out. This is just what I've heard 2nd and third hand though.

I have personal experience with the Caltric stators though, personally for me and how I was riding they were crap. The copper is pretty thin gauge and has very little epoxy coating holding it all together. If you're just putting around town or shorter freeway trips then it'll work just fine. I was riding long distances for hours at freeway speed (70+) going to and from work and I was burning out Caltrics left and right. The bike was making too much extra power even with the headlight on and I burned two stators to a crisp within 2000 miles. I warrantied the first one and but after the second time I gave up, this was with a Shindingen r/r too. A larger bike with more farkles would probably have been better, more electricity to use and lower cruising RPMs.

I ended up getting a Rick's Electric stator ($115 on Amazon) and it's great, very close or better then OEM quality. The Compufire I got along with it will keep it cool and should last virtually forever.
 
Last edited:
Toasty said:
I haven't heard many good things about the Electrosport stators. They're overpriced and overwound, which makes more power (sounds good in theory) but that means more power gets shunted back to the stator... Which gets it hotter and makes it burn out. This is just what I've heard 2nd and third hand though.

I have personal experience with the Caltric stators though, personally for me and how I was riding they were crap. The copper is pretty thin gauge and has very little epoxy coating holding it all together. If you're just putting around town or shorter freeway trips then it'll work just fine. I was riding long distances for hours at freeway speed (70+) going to and from work and I was burning out Caltrics left and right. The bike was making too much extra power even with the headlight on and I burned two stators to a crisp within 2000 miles. I warrantied the first one and but after the second time I gave up, this was with a Shindingen r/r too. A larger bike with more farkles would probably have been better, more electricity to use and lower cruising RPMs.

I ended up getting a Rick's Electric stator ($115 on Amazon) and it's great, very close or better then OEM quality. The Compufire I got along with it will keep it cool and should last virtually forever.
Click to expand...

The main point of having a SERIES Compufire is so the R/R does not SHUNT the stator. Shorting (shunting) the stator is what makes the stators heat up. With the extra power (at low speeds) of the ES it only burns up faster. However if you have a SERIES R/R (e.g. Compufire) then the Electrosport Stator will not over heat.

So in my mind the Compufire SERIES R/R with the Electrosport Stator is the best combination and better than anything else baring any quality issues from manufacturing.

Don't even consider a Electrosport R/R (what is the point???)
 
Hi,

I'm embarrassed to say that I've gone through a few stators. From my experience I have no problems recommending Rick's or Caltric. I will not buy an RM Stator or Electrosport again. Buying used is a crap shoot but sometimes you're on a really tight budget.

Make sure your wiring harness connections and grounds, especially the charging system, are clean, clean, CLEAN! ;)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
posplayr said:
The main point of having a SERIES Compufire is so the R/R does not SHUNT the stator. Shorting (shunting) the stator is what makes the stators heat up. With the extra power (at low speeds) of the ES it only burns up faster. However if you have a SERIES R/R (e.g. Compufire) then the Electrosport Stator will not over heat.

So in my mind the Compufire SERIES R/R with the Electrosport Stator is the best combination and better than anything else baring any quality issues from manufacturing.

Don't even consider a Electrosport R/R (what is the point???)
Click to expand...

The Compufire is definitely the way to go but it was EXPENSIVE. Unless you're having lots of issues I would just go with a good stator like Ricks and a Shindingen R/R. I don't think the extra power from the Electrosport is needed and the quality is hit or miss. My Ricks and Compufire combo gets me 14.3v from idle to redline :D.
 
Toasty said:
The Compufire is definitely the way to go but it was EXPENSIVE. Unless you're having lots of issues I would just go with a good stator like Ricks and a Shindingen R/R. I don't think the extra power from the Electrosport is needed and the quality is hit or miss. My Ricks and Compufire combo gets me 14.3v from idle to redline :D.
Click to expand...

No issues as stated :)
 
As some may remember I installed a Rick's stator and a Compufire RR, thank you posplayer. Anyway this combo provides perfect voltages ( according to the Stator Papers) while connectors stay cool. If anybody needs a Compufire I have an extra one new in box. The infamous missing connector and terminals included. $?
 
mustangflyr said:
As some may remember I installed a Rick's stator and a Compufire RR, thank you posplayer. Anyway this combo provides perfect voltages ( according to the Stator Papers) while connectors stay cool. If anybody needs a Compufire I have an extra one new in box. The infamous missing connector and terminals included. $?
Click to expand...

glad it is working out :)
 
The electrical gremlins beat me to it....

The electrical gremlins beat me to it....

Well, I was planning on replacing the stator this year anyway, because I didn't know how old it was or even who made it....After a trouble-free 2012, the gremlins have jumped in and made the decision for me.

I've been gone on business much of this year so far, and we've had a crappy spring anyway. Finally got the bike out for the first time yesterday on a short 35 mi ride. Ran like a top. Went to take it out again this morning and nada - dead battery. WTF?

Did all the checks....stator and R/R are both toast. :mad: One leg of the stator is only putting out 15VAC @ 5000rpm. R/R fails the diode tests. The connector on the output lead had been overheated too. It was new 2 years ago and still in good shape, but I could tell it had got hot.

Looks like much or all the ride yesterday was made on the battery alone. Glad I got a good one.

SO - ordered a Rick's stator and a Shindengen SH775 R/R, plus the Eastern Beaver connector kit. I'll do a write-up on it when I dig into it. Think I'm going to move the R/R out from underneath the battery box too.
 
850GT_Rider said:
Well, I was planning on replacing the stator this year anyway, because I didn't know how old it was or even who made it....After a trouble-free 2012, the gremlins have jumped in and made the decision for me.

I've been gone on business much of this year so far, and we've had a crappy spring anyway. Finally got the bike out for the first time yesterday on a short 35 mi ride. Ran like a top. Went to take it out again this morning and nada - dead battery. WTF?

Did all the checks....stator and R/R are both toast. :mad: One leg of the stator is only putting out 15VAC @ 5000rpm. R/R fails the diode tests. The connector on the output lead had been overheated too. It was new 2 years ago and still in good shape, but I could tell it had got hot.

Looks like much or all the ride yesterday was made on the battery alone. Glad I got a good one.

SO - ordered a Rick's stator and a Shindengen SH775 R/R, plus the Eastern Beaver connector kit. I'll do a write-up on it when I dig into it. Think I'm going to move the R/R out from underneath the battery box too.
Click to expand...

you might want to think about a voltmeter as well, although I suspect with the series SH-775 (if it is SERIES) your troubles will be gone.
 
posplayr said:
you might want to think about a voltmeter as well, although I suspect with the series SH-775 (if it is SERIES) your troubles will be gone.
Click to expand...

Yep - got one of those in my "to be installed" pile too. The wiring in the fairing has been giving me grief. No shorts, too well protected by fuses, but a flickering of the clearance lights. Traced it to a flaky connection in the Molex plug between the fairing and the bike. Ordered a whole new connector set from Vetter, and was going to install the voltmeter when I do all that.

Overall, sounds like a solid weekend of work, maybe two........

Thanks for the advice though!
 
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